Hacky Racers Wiki i7754603_mw1 https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Main_Page MediaWiki 1.39.3 first-letter Media Special Talk User User talk My wiki My wiki talk File File talk MediaWiki MediaWiki talk Template Template talk Help Help talk Category Category talk 0 1 1 2023-06-06T22:11:56Z MediaWiki default 2 wikitext text/x-wiki <strong>MediaWiki has been installed.</strong> Consult the [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents User's Guide] for information on using the wiki software. == Getting started == * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ] * [https://lists.wikimedia.org/postorius/lists/mediawiki-announce.lists.wikimedia.org/ MediaWiki release mailing list] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language] * [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki] 11cef88175cf81168a86e7c0327a5b2d7a1920f5 0 2 2 2023-06-07T05:02:57Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "Background CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. Construction The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utili..." wikitext text/x-wiki Background CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. Construction The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. Powertrain CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, fitted with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs, producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) Other Features A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available here. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. Awards Fully Charged Live 2023 1st place overall. 2nd place race position. 2nd place on Moxie points. EMF Camp 2022 Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) BOM Item Cost Total Swegway 1 £30.00 £309.31 Swegway 2 £30.00 Tyres £103.25 Wood for frame £50.00 12V reg £11.39 Chair £8.00 Pi enclosure £13.79 Motor drive enclosures £18.96 Throttle Arduino £3.19 Steering brackets £4.46 Steering column £3.25 Steering bolts £3.32 Steering wheel + pedals £7.59 Steering rod £2.80 Steering rod ends £9.31 Wire £10.00 Kill switch Excluded Horn Excluded Wood for bumpers Excluded Battery 1 Excluded Battery box Excluded Fuse Excluded Lighting and control pi Excluded Brake kit Excluded Brake standoffs Excluded Limitations Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. Resources Twitter Account @EmfFRoamer The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on GitHub Remote control Pi code on GitHub Chris’ website 014c2d169d31dac55cec120ee8d41ec7e436e50c 3 2 2023-06-07T05:04:23Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Background CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. Construction The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. Powertrain CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, fitted with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs, producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) Other Features A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available here. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. Awards Fully Charged Live 2023 1st place overall. 2nd place race position. 2nd place on Moxie points. EMF Camp 2022 Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) BOM Item Cost Total Swegway 1 £30.00 £309.31 Swegway 2 £30.00 Tyres £103.25 Wood for frame £50.00 12V reg £11.39 Chair £8.00 Pi enclosure £13.79 Motor drive enclosures £18.96 Throttle Arduino £3.19 Steering brackets £4.46 Steering column £3.25 Steering bolts £3.32 Steering wheel + pedals £7.59 Steering rod £2.80 Steering rod ends £9.31 Wire £10.00 Kill switch Excluded Horn Excluded Wood for bumpers Excluded Battery 1 Excluded Battery box Excluded Fuse Excluded Lighting and control pi Excluded Brake kit Excluded Brake standoffs Excluded Limitations Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. Resources Twitter Account @EmfFRoamer The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on GitHub Remote control Pi code on GitHub Chris’ website c759f9444ed191edb6f866f90daf471854606f65 4 3 2023-06-07T05:06:15Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |Description=Its a Cyber Truck. |Contact=@emfroamer |Activities=Maintaining the EMF Roamer. |Interests=Interest:Roaming, Interest:Hacky Racers }} Background CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. Construction The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. Powertrain CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, fitted with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs, producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) Other Features A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available here. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. Awards Fully Charged Live 2023 1st place overall. 2nd place race position. 2nd place on Moxie points. EMF Camp 2022 Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) BOM Item Cost Total Swegway 1 £30.00 £309.31 Swegway 2 £30.00 Tyres £103.25 Wood for frame £50.00 12V reg £11.39 Chair £8.00 Pi enclosure £13.79 Motor drive enclosures £18.96 Throttle Arduino £3.19 Steering brackets £4.46 Steering column £3.25 Steering bolts £3.32 Steering wheel + pedals £7.59 Steering rod £2.80 Steering rod ends £9.31 Wire £10.00 Kill switch Excluded Horn Excluded Wood for bumpers Excluded Battery 1 Excluded Battery box Excluded Fuse Excluded Lighting and control pi Excluded Brake kit Excluded Brake standoffs Excluded Limitations Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. Resources Twitter Account @EmfFRoamer The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on GitHub Remote control Pi code on GitHub Chris’ website [[Category:Racers]] ec87f1196f4916e5e5470359a33a3c6853454d5f 13 4 2023-06-07T22:11:38Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |Description=Its a Cyber Truck. |Contact=@emfroamer |Activities=Maintaining the EMF Roamer. |Interests=Interest:Roaming, Interest:Hacky Racers }} ==Background== CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, fitted with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs, producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available here. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== Fully Charged Live 2023 1st place overall. 2nd place race position. 2nd place on Moxie points. EMF Camp 2022 Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== Item Cost Total Swegway 1 £30.00 £309.31 Swegway 2 £30.00 Tyres £103.25 Wood for frame £50.00 12V reg £11.39 Chair £8.00 Pi enclosure £13.79 Motor drive enclosures £18.96 Throttle Arduino £3.19 Steering brackets £4.46 Steering column £3.25 Steering bolts £3.32 Steering wheel + pedals £7.59 Steering rod £2.80 Steering rod ends £9.31 Wire £10.00 Kill switch Excluded Horn Excluded Wood for bumpers Excluded Battery 1 Excluded Battery box Excluded Fuse Excluded Lighting and control pi Excluded Brake kit Excluded Brake standoffs Excluded ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account @EmfFRoamer The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on GitHub Remote control Pi code on GitHub Chris’ website [[Category:Racers]] 72e5d52b1e05ef6332c20441681dbbd498e9140b 14 13 2023-06-07T22:13:05Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |Description=Its a Cyber Truck. |Contact=@emfroamer |Activities=Maintaining the EMF Roamer. |Interests=Interest:Roaming, Interest:Hacky Racers }} ==Background== CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, fitted with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs, producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available here. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== Item Cost Total Swegway 1 £30.00 £309.31 Swegway 2 £30.00 Tyres £103.25 Wood for frame £50.00 12V reg £11.39 Chair £8.00 Pi enclosure £13.79 Motor drive enclosures £18.96 Throttle Arduino £3.19 Steering brackets £4.46 Steering column £3.25 Steering bolts £3.32 Steering wheel + pedals £7.59 Steering rod £2.80 Steering rod ends £9.31 Wire £10.00 Kill switch Excluded Horn Excluded Wood for bumpers Excluded Battery 1 Excluded Battery box Excluded Fuse Excluded Lighting and control pi Excluded Brake kit Excluded Brake standoffs Excluded ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account @EmfFRoamer The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on GitHub Remote control Pi code on GitHub Chris’ website [[Category:Racers]] 58a174e524be7b25e1e45d6b7ac82fe90f881ae8 17 14 2023-06-07T22:26:50Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, fitted with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs, producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available here. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== Item Cost Total Swegway 1 £30.00 £309.31 Swegway 2 £30.00 Tyres £103.25 Wood for frame £50.00 12V reg £11.39 Chair £8.00 Pi enclosure £13.79 Motor drive enclosures £18.96 Throttle Arduino £3.19 Steering brackets £4.46 Steering column £3.25 Steering bolts £3.32 Steering wheel + pedals £7.59 Steering rod £2.80 Steering rod ends £9.31 Wire £10.00 Kill switch Excluded Horn Excluded Wood for bumpers Excluded Battery 1 Excluded Battery box Excluded Fuse Excluded Lighting and control pi Excluded Brake kit Excluded Brake standoffs Excluded ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account @EmfFRoamer The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on GitHub Remote control Pi code on GitHub Chris’ website [[Category:Racers]] 24bf761da847d705329ea3a581d01596029814a9 18 17 2023-06-07T22:37:13Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== Item Cost Total Swegway 1 £30.00 £309.31 Swegway 2 £30.00 Tyres £103.25 Wood for frame £50.00 12V reg £11.39 Chair £8.00 Pi enclosure £13.79 Motor drive enclosures £18.96 Throttle Arduino £3.19 Steering brackets £4.46 Steering column £3.25 Steering bolts £3.32 Steering wheel + pedals £7.59 Steering rod £2.80 Steering rod ends £9.31 Wire £10.00 Kill switch Excluded Horn Excluded Wood for bumpers Excluded Battery 1 Excluded Battery box Excluded Fuse Excluded Lighting and control pi Excluded Brake kit Excluded Brake standoffs Excluded ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] [[Category:Racers]] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] 3393c001c15d0d2357c1205afe96596977274dab 19 18 2023-06-07T22:37:49Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== Item Cost Total Swegway 1 £30.00 £309.31 Swegway 2 £30.00 Tyres £103.25 Wood for frame £50.00 12V reg £11.39 Chair £8.00 Pi enclosure £13.79 Motor drive enclosures £18.96 Throttle Arduino £3.19 Steering brackets £4.46 Steering column £3.25 Steering bolts £3.32 Steering wheel + pedals £7.59 Steering rod £2.80 Steering rod ends £9.31 Wire £10.00 Kill switch Excluded Horn Excluded Wood for bumpers Excluded Battery 1 Excluded Battery box Excluded Fuse Excluded Lighting and control pi Excluded Brake kit Excluded Brake standoffs Excluded ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 8f7c54a460a3d4f78a4460d122f89278e30b6426 22 19 2023-06-08T09:24:25Z 213.48.15.246 0 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] d4ea5886ff639564cdeb47b1bea12fcf841e5ea6 23 22 2023-06-08T09:26:22Z 213.48.15.246 0 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 2756632bfaaa76d225228810115d1cc0a0c7738f 26 23 2023-06-08T21:14:19Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] b36732dab229f6475ac0d4fc7193d59a097f576b 30 26 2023-06-08T21:23:17Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 846d1d5f04c6289d4e564d3729f1698c756de8ae 31 30 2023-06-08T21:27:02Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] e6e87068f6a2087cc9a262a56c0f11ac422ef659 34 31 2023-06-08T21:28:45Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb]] [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb]] The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 371ab85b935dc97a07d88a0fb04be70c50aedc26 36 34 2023-06-08T21:32:28Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] ecab9336c0484450fe5c65f3633881a56ab380a4 38 36 2023-06-08T21:34:28Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) {{wide image|Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|1800px|alt=Electrical block diagram}} ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 20ff3af741ba64c09fc4e36cae63cdaa0b048f02 40 38 2023-06-08T21:43:41Z Cstubbs 3 /* Powertrain */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) {{File|Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|1000px|alt=Electrical block diagram}} ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 515fbf39d3ddcf2ecb91da3ac040c383ee3426ac 41 40 2023-06-08T21:44:12Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File|Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|1000px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 660ea66f9c64f7ae7231f0a3b56a7722f6877656 42 41 2023-06-08T21:44:44Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|1000px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 6428c3c10fb5362ce55fec058eca69d2086ba92a 43 42 2023-06-08T21:45:04Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|75%|alt=Electrical block diagram]] ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 27f6c6f695f90b640276149ef41311a8eded09cc 44 43 2023-06-08T21:45:20Z Cstubbs 3 /* Powertrain */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|50%|alt=Electrical block diagram]] ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 19ac7f79866a814011bf9b3f3785f16232bf8b26 45 44 2023-06-08T21:46:36Z Cstubbs 3 /* Powertrain */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] f11b3da451182a7b31cf2868bb10b18304a335fe 46 45 2023-06-08T21:51:39Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] 016aaadbdd90bee57f174dda92dea0636e19f04d 50 46 2023-06-08T22:03:02Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] [[Category:Racers]] c87950f72b0a4cbf868c51dad5a4d184fe6a4744 10 3 5 2023-06-07T05:10:22Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "<noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a village. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-col..." wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a village. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>[[Name::Village:{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}|{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}]]</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Description | [[Description::{{{Description|}}}|]] {{{Description|}}} |- ! Contact | [[Contact::User:{{{Contact|}}}]] {{#ifeq:|{{{WebAddress|}}}|| {{!}}- ! Web Site {{!}} {{{WebAddress|}}} }} |- ! Activities | [[Activities::{{{Activities|}}}|]]{{{Activities|}}} {{#ifeq:|{{{Location|}}}|| {{!}}- {{#if:{{{Location|}}}|[[Location::{{{Location}}}|]][[MapFix::{{{Location}}}~{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}~{{{Description}}}~{{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|EMF-blue.png}}|]]|}} ! colspan="2"{{!}} {{#display_map:{{{Location}}}~{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}~{{{Description}}}~{{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|EMF-blue.png}}|width=300|height=300|service=openlayers|zoom=18}} }} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racers]] |}{{#ifeq: {{{HideList|false}}}|true||{{inhabitants}}}} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> a06f9a46a9b162cf919e58e9eff062ba5f6b1e08 6 5 2023-06-07T21:51:50Z 146.90.179.3 0 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a village. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>[[Name::Village:{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}|{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}]]</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Description | {{{Description|}}} |- ! Contact | [[Contact::User:{{{Contact|}}}]] {{#ifeq:|{{{WebAddress|}}}|| {{!}}- ! Web Site {{!}} {{{WebAddress|}}} }} |- ! Activities | [[Activities::{{{Activities|}}}|]]{{{Activities|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racers]] |}{{#ifeq: {{{HideList|false}}}|true||{{inhabitants}}}} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 2bca95c955025d59ad906a4c16ccde68752ef252 7 6 2023-06-07T21:52:58Z 146.90.179.3 0 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a village. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>[[Name::Village:{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}|{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}]]</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Description | {{{Description|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- ! Activities | [[Activities::{{{Activities|}}}|]]{{{Activities|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racers]] |}{{#ifeq: {{{HideList|false}}}|true||{{inhabitants}}}} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 349731b43b91e742a1b2ec7cbdf159399619ff1f 8 7 2023-06-07T21:56:48Z 146.90.179.3 0 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a village. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>[[Name::Village:{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}|{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}]]</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Description | {{{Description|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- ! Activities | {{{Activities|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |}{{#ifeq: {{{HideList|false}}}|true||{{inhabitants}}}} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 305c75a726a404b08c4814a26dc9aa6ea446530d 9 8 2023-06-07T22:00:27Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>[[Name::Racer:{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}|{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}]]</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Description | {{{Description|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- ! Activities | {{{Activities|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> c4047bd57d759bf94e2729774a2c797b064d2805 10 9 2023-06-07T22:04:58Z Cstubbs 3 Undo revision 9 by [[Special:Contributions/Cstubbs|Cstubbs]] ([[User talk:Cstubbs|talk]]) wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a village. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>[[Name::Village:{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}|{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}]]</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Description | {{{Description|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- ! Activities | {{{Activities|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |}{{#ifeq: {{{HideList|false}}}|true||{{inhabitants}}}} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 305c75a726a404b08c4814a26dc9aa6ea446530d 11 10 2023-06-07T22:05:35Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>[[Name::Racer:{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}|{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}]]</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Description | {{{Description|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- ! Activities | {{{Activities|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |}{{#ifeq: {{{HideList|false}}}|true||{{inhabitants}}}} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 0c8782f8cc78fb21db129c4abd5cf6d34875f4c0 12 11 2023-06-07T22:08:32Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>[[Name::Racer:{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}|{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}]]</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Description | {{{Description|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- ! Activities | {{{Activities|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 63f757df2ec5b702ce1e484d37abe956f76b3d7b 15 12 2023-06-07T22:15:23Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>{{PAGENAME}}</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Description | {{{Description|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- ! Activities | {{{Activities|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 3b475362fb96a8bac029a83cd7d522a999cf7e3c 16 15 2023-06-07T22:26:47Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |Description= |Contact= |WebAddress= |Activities= |Location= }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>{{PAGENAME}}</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Built By | {{{BuiltBy|}}} |- ! Theme | {{{Theme|}}} |- ! First Race | {{{FirstRace|}}} |- ! Current Status | {{{CurrentStatus|}}} |- ! Motor | {{{Motor|}}} |- ! ESC | {{{ESC|}}} |- ! Battery | {{{Battery|}}} |- ! Gearbox | {{{Gearbox|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 97559ec93ce171377dfed778f5365fe4eb6d9285 20 16 2023-06-07T22:38:57Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} </pre> To not include the list of team members, add |HideList=true before the }} </noinclude><includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>{{PAGENAME}}</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Built By | {{{BuiltBy|}}} |- ! Theme | {{{Theme|}}} |- ! First Race | {{{FirstRace|}}} |- ! Current Status | {{{CurrentStatus|}}} |- ! Motor | {{{Motor|}}} |- ! ESC | {{{ESC|}}} |- ! Battery | {{{Battery|}}} |- ! Gearbox | {{{Gearbox|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> af1b2aaf5fcdbe517d5e5c51ee0140cad14a05e2 21 20 2023-06-07T22:40:36Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} </pre> </noinclude> <includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>{{PAGENAME}}</big> |- ! colspan="2" | {{GetRacerImage|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}} {{#ifeq:{{ImageExists|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}|1|[[Picture::{{filepath:{{GetImageFilename|Racer-{{#explode:{{PAGENAME}}|:|1}}}}}}| ]]|}} |- ! Built By | {{{BuiltBy|}}} |- ! Theme | {{{Theme|}}} |- ! First Race | {{{FirstRace|}}} |- ! Current Status | {{{CurrentStatus|}}} |- ! Motor | {{{Motor|}}} |- ! ESC | {{{ESC|}}} |- ! Battery | {{{Battery|}}} |- ! Gearbox | {{{Gearbox|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 39f3e73a32d08b494b7a57c12e8cae702379582c 27 21 2023-06-08T21:18:30Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} </pre> </noinclude> <includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>{{PAGENAME}}</big> |- ! colspan="2" | [[File:{{{ProfilePic|}}}]] |- ! Built By | {{{BuiltBy|}}} |- ! Theme | {{{Theme|}}} |- ! First Race | {{{FirstRace|}}} |- ! Current Status | {{{CurrentStatus|}}} |- ! Motor | {{{Motor|}}} |- ! ESC | {{{ESC|}}} |- ! Battery | {{{Battery|}}} |- ! Gearbox | {{{Gearbox|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> b129055cc53ad2f963121250da9b21084c35915d 28 27 2023-06-08T21:20:19Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} </pre> </noinclude> <includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>{{PAGENAME}}</big> |- ! colspan="2" | [[File:{{{ProfilePic|}}}|thumb]] |- ! Built By | {{{BuiltBy|}}} |- ! Theme | {{{Theme|}}} |- ! First Race | {{{FirstRace|}}} |- ! Current Status | {{{CurrentStatus|}}} |- ! Motor | {{{Motor|}}} |- ! ESC | {{{ESC|}}} |- ! Battery | {{{Battery|}}} |- ! Gearbox | {{{Gearbox|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 72fe606834eeabba6c58298178e899a3b27f6cfc 10 4 24 2023-06-08T09:28:53Z 213.48.15.246 0 Created blank page wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 5 25 2023-06-08T21:09:42Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 6 29 2023-06-08T21:22:23Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 7 32 2023-06-08T21:27:38Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 8 33 2023-06-08T21:28:26Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 9 35 2023-06-08T21:32:01Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 10 37 2023-06-08T21:33:13Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 10 11 39 2023-06-08T21:39:27Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "<includeonly><div class="thumb {{#switch:{{{5}}} |left=<nowiki> </nowiki>tleft" style=" |right=<nowiki> </nowiki>tright" style=" |#default=<nowiki> </nowiki>tnone" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right:auto; }} width:{{{4|99%}}};"> <div class="thumbinner"><div class="overflowbugx" style="overflow:auto;">[[File:{{{1}}}|{{{2}}}|alt={{{alt|}}}|{{#switch:{{{3}}} |thumb |thumbnail |frame |border={{{1}}} |#default={{{3|}}}}}]]</div>{{ #if: {{{3|}}}|<div class="thumbcaption">{..." wikitext text/x-wiki <includeonly><div class="thumb {{#switch:{{{5}}} |left=<nowiki> </nowiki>tleft" style=" |right=<nowiki> </nowiki>tright" style=" |#default=<nowiki> </nowiki>tnone" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right:auto; }} width:{{{4|99%}}};"> <div class="thumbinner"><div class="overflowbugx" style="overflow:auto;">[[File:{{{1}}}|{{{2}}}|alt={{{alt|}}}|{{#switch:{{{3}}} |thumb |thumbnail |frame |border={{{1}}} |#default={{{3|}}}}}]]</div>{{ #if: {{{3|}}}|<div class="thumbcaption">{{Magnify icon|link=File:{{{1}}} }}<!-- -->{{{3}}}</div>|}} </div></div></includeonly><noinclude> {{documentation}} <!-- If you copy this template, you need to add the overflowx and overflowy CSS classes to your global CSS for Internet Explorer users. On the English Wikipedia, these are conditionally loaded by [[MediaWiki:Common.js]] --> <!-- Add categories and interwikis to the /doc subpage, not here! --> </noinclude> 83b393186eda79aaddc16b9beb719fe7a68bea11 10 12 47 2023-06-08T21:59:08Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "<div style="clear:{{{1|both}}};"></div><noinclude> {{documentation}} </noinclude>" wikitext text/x-wiki <div style="clear:{{{1|both}}};"></div><noinclude> {{documentation}} </noinclude> 38bab3e3d7fbd3d6800d46556e60bc6bac494d72 6 13 48 2023-06-08T22:01:44Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 14 49 2023-06-08T22:02:32Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 2 51 50 2023-06-08T22:04:21Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] fbde5f22c65d7947656a5687ca3f3782b8b822e8 10 15 52 2023-06-08T22:04:30Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.]" wikitext text/x-wiki For the latest news, posts and discussions about everything Hacky Racers, head over to the [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308 Facebook group.] c109195c4c6097ae3dd97ecbbbb76ffa4a3731f4 14 16 53 2023-06-08T22:07:15Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "This category contains Profiles for (some of) the Racers that you can find at Hacky Racers. To include your Racer Profile on this page you can create a new page and add the tag <nowiki>[[Category:Racers]]</nowiki> to the bottom." wikitext text/x-wiki This category contains Profiles for (some of) the Racers that you can find at Hacky Racers. To include your Racer Profile on this page you can create a new page and add the tag <nowiki>[[Category:Racers]]</nowiki> to the bottom. 48f9970649b8dfad1ecb2d5f20658b67e2dca6b0 10 3 54 28 2023-06-08T22:08:22Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} </pre> </noinclude> <includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>{{PAGENAME}}</big> |- ! colspan="2" | [[File:{{{ProfilePic|}}}|thumb]] |- ! Built By | {{{BuiltBy|}}} |- ! Theme | {{{Theme|}}} |- ! First Race | {{{FirstRace|}}} |- ! Current Status | {{{CurrentStatus|}}} |- ! Motor | {{{Motor|}}} |- ! ESC | {{{ESC|}}} |- ! Battery | {{{Battery|}}} |- ! Gearbox | {{{Gearbox|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> cc66bf3a46f71e368fb5f896c90a8dba6f6878a6 55 54 2023-06-08T22:12:52Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} </pre> </noinclude> <includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>{{PAGENAME}}</big> |- ! colspan="2" | [[File:{{{ProfilePic|}}}|thumb]] |- ! Built By | {{{BuiltBy|}}} |- ! Theme | {{{Theme|}}} |- ! First Race | {{{FirstRace|}}} |- ! Current Status | {{{CurrentStatus|}}} |- ! Motor | {{{Motor|}}} |- ! ESC | {{{ESC|}}} |- ! Battery | {{{Battery|}}} |- ! Gearbox | {{{Gearbox|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[:Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 1496720cf11447572a690da9580387e75ce03015 6 17 56 2023-06-08T22:24:56Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 1 57 1 2023-07-12T11:24:09Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/:Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/:Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/:Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree>Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events 7ab952344f08087005b7e21882743b042326ce00 58 57 2023-07-12T11:25:59Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/|Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/|Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/|Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree>Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events 16dc7bbbbe2f9427140bbacf9ee06e2f6eef5a52 59 58 2023-07-12T11:26:20Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/|Facebook page]] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [[https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/|Hacky Racers Site]] * [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/|Facebook Page]] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree>Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events c96ecac9d4d6aedd2b1c9611103368dab13f68d0 60 59 2023-07-12T11:27:20Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree>Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events 4aeed8c48c7010314fae1d8a88dc54b6b647ac89 61 60 2023-07-12T11:28:17Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree>Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events 81224e84239079fdcd58b69094c37b2d4a50b725 62 61 2023-07-12T11:29:26Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers {{#categorytree:Racers}} == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events 3b2929900bd3397ce89365d126fb97cfa5d3735b 63 62 2023-07-12T11:41:45Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers {{Category:Racers}} == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events d67e8c30dc5f63d9aeaef86b39cc1fb8d4351d77 64 63 2023-07-12T11:43:15Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [CYBR_TRK|] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events 45dad682bf4c3d9b76c7c17e91f47d693bd89be3 65 64 2023-07-12T11:44:05Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [[CYBR_TRK|CYBR_TRK]] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events 8f20421771d291e640021e9d3d412e3b15b4be24 66 65 2023-07-12T11:44:40Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [[CYBR TRK]] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events b97e67a751bfb959e136779b36c03319a6532977 67 66 2023-07-12T11:46:31Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [[CYBR TRK]] [[Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events 598803133cb02a22c27e5b68ff81f89362fb1ede 68 67 2023-07-12T11:46:47Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [[CYBR TRK]] [Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events 84d09cc737002685c598f9d3368bca8069d82fb0 69 68 2023-07-12T11:47:47Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [[CYBR TRK]] [Category:Racers View all Racer Profiles] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events 0dee168e1b12bf97bdd2272c45458e0443cd17ba 70 69 2023-07-12T12:44:07Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [[CYBR TRK]] [[:Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events bc376fa4fd2cbfb3dd0fb3bc5ce1f9f6b059e214 74 70 2023-07-12T14:01:43Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *Motors & Controllers **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [[CYBR TRK]] [[:Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events * [[Scrumpy Cup 2023]] [[:Category:Events|View all Events]] c88939f7c6fcf0a0903f222a5a0649b588a7c47d 100 74 2023-07-12T17:36:27Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *[[Motors & Controllers]] **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Steering *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [[CYBR TRK]] [[:Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events * [[Scrumpy Cup 2023]] [[:Category:Events|View all Events]] dce14be3d2c32a0912286dd1f9d6c6ee76747fea 10 18 71 2023-07-12T13:41:47Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "<noinclude> This is the "Event" template. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Event |EventPic=scrumpy23.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} </pre> </noinclude> <includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;"..." wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Event" template. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Event |EventPic=scrumpy23.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} </pre> </noinclude> <includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>{{PAGENAME}}</big> |- ! colspan="2" | [[File:{{{EventPic|}}}|thumb]] |- ! Date | {{{Date|}}} |- ! Location | {{{Location|}}} |- ! Event Type | {{{EventType|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[:Category:Events|View all Events]] |} [[Category:Events]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Event", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Event", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Event", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Events", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 19568aa123d7eb671cc8a008f3ba724e75e42ef0 0 19 72 2023-07-12T13:51:10Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Event |EventPic=scrumpy23.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricatu..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=scrumpy23.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # A # Chris in [[CYBR TRK]] # C ===Overall=== # A # B # C {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] b76a29300fb45c81b712f015697ee6af4aacbf72 73 72 2023-07-12T13:58:54Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=scrumpy23.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|thumb|left]] We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # A # Chris in [[CYBR TRK]] # Mark in [[Rule Zero]] ===Overall=== # A # B # C PANORAMA OF RACERS {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] f4bb940b8c8dc4a7ef4d2479047ab24e523f34b6 78 73 2023-07-12T15:51:30Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=scrumpy23.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|thumb|left]] We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # A # Chris in [[CYBR TRK]] # Mark in [[Rule Zero]] ===Overall=== # A # B # C PANORAMA OF RACERS [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|thumb|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 5890f296446d3bbecb54dc591db827bcb42df456 79 78 2023-07-12T15:51:42Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=scrumpy23.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|thumb|left]] We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # A # Chris in [[CYBR TRK]] # Mark in [[Rule Zero]] ===Overall=== # A # B # C PANORAMA OF RACERS [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 9c7e6fc972f12f14d1f79b49334333a1fe6df161 80 79 2023-07-12T15:54:19Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=scrumpy23.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|thumb|left]] We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # A # Chris in [[CYBR TRK]] # Mark in [[Rule Zero]] ===Overall=== # A # B # C PANORAMA OF RACERS [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] fc26543c83398b39e6622924caf9c15da61a3043 82 80 2023-07-12T15:59:58Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|thumb|left]] We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # A # Chris in [[CYBR TRK]] # Mark in [[Rule Zero]] ===Overall=== # A # B # C PANORAMA OF RACERS [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] db7eae1d4bbb0010210baea1c2c13c1f29799b35 83 82 2023-07-12T16:21:01Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross(?) *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[Cyber Quad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - ?? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # Rory in [[The Rat]] # Chris in [[CYBR TRK]] # Mark in [[Rule Zero]] ===Overall=== # A # B # C [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 227af1ba7a7fb1903234c58d8d02863d51ceae81 84 83 2023-07-12T16:21:57Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[Cyber Quad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - ?? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # [[The Rat] - Rory # [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris # [[Rule Zero]] - Mark ===Overall=== # A # B # C [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] bcaa3d930cca3662ba9fdda6b1afc85401e3e919 85 84 2023-07-12T16:22:07Z Cstubbs 3 /* Moxie */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[Cyber Quad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - ?? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # [[The Rat]] - Rory # [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris # [[Rule Zero]] - Mark ===Overall=== # A # B # C [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 2784c8114a0ad787664f02ebf65d3414e278b41d 86 85 2023-07-12T16:24:49Z Cstubbs 3 /* Entrants */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[Cyber Quad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - Harrison? Arron? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # [[The Rat]] - Rory # [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris # [[Rule Zero]] - Mark ===Overall=== # A # B # C [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] d5736c63e6ff89d83ef15be0b3dae25855a69adf 89 86 2023-07-12T16:49:47Z Cstubbs 3 /* Overall */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[Cyber Quad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - Harrison? Arron? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # [[The Rat]] - Rory # [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris # [[Rule Zero]] - Mark ===Overall=== # [[LEtsGO]] - Chris # B # C [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] f4badda8489490f2678f34eb185a9e1cf9ba1b92 14 20 75 2023-07-12T14:11:58Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "This category contains Profiles for (some of) the Events which Hacky Racers have attended. To include your Event on this page you can create a new page and add the tag <nowiki>[[Category:Events]]</nowiki> to the bottom." wikitext text/x-wiki This category contains Profiles for (some of) the Events which Hacky Racers have attended. To include your Event on this page you can create a new page and add the tag <nowiki>[[Category:Events]]</nowiki> to the bottom. b6be91d9e4fa62d39d4f257019d669fbc5a01729 76 75 2023-07-12T14:12:08Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki This category contains (some of) the Events which Hacky Racers have attended. To include your Event on this page you can create a new page and add the tag <nowiki>[[Category:Events]]</nowiki> to the bottom. 76ad475108646bb5f66762887b12961a22e1b730 6 21 77 2023-07-12T15:49:25Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 22 81 2023-07-12T15:59:39Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 23 87 2023-07-12T16:43:54Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 24 88 2023-07-12T16:44:01Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Racer |ProfilePic=PinkMyRideProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Carl Yeo |Theme=Pink BMW |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Modified Alternator |ESC=2x ?? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | File:Cybr_trk_wood_c..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=PinkMyRideProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Carl Yeo |Theme=Pink BMW |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Modified Alternator |ESC=2x ?? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? What did you have to modify? ESC(s?)? What do your switches do? Details of chain and gear ratio? Do you have a diff? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] RGB Headlights? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **3rd place (for what?). ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Extremely painful to drive. {{clear}} ==Resources== Socials to share? Websites? Resources? {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 55e08248a7bece4b8201643c86396770f254f010 6 25 90 2023-07-12T17:03:32Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 26 91 2023-07-12T17:03:36Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Racer |ProfilePic=RuleZeroProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Mark Mellors |Theme=Fire Engine |FirstRace=EMF 2018? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=@MarkMellors }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero – Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hitchin fire service, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, pl..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=RuleZeroProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Mark Mellors |Theme=Fire Engine |FirstRace=EMF 2018? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=@MarkMellors }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero – Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hitchin fire service, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, plastic sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? ESC(s?)? Details of chain and gear ratio? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/MarkMellors @MarkMellors] [http://jellyandmarshmallows.co.uk/ Mark’s website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 3f54424e0066be34951f3fd438bd4a5b0789ed81 93 91 2023-07-12T17:13:15Z Cstubbs 3 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=RuleZeroProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Mark Mellors |Theme=Fire Engine |FirstRace=EMF 2018? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=@MarkMellors }} ==Background== [[File:RuleZeroOrigin.jpg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero - Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hitchin fire service, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, plastic sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? ESC(s?)? Details of chain and gear ratio? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/MarkMellors @MarkMellors] [http://jellyandmarshmallows.co.uk/ Mark’s website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] fc36aec34ce0a9a2bd3df9c8227262fe914d62ef 94 93 2023-07-12T17:13:38Z Cstubbs 3 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=RuleZeroProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Mark Mellors |Theme=Fire Engine |FirstRace=EMF 2018? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=@MarkMellors }} ==Background== [[File:RuleZeroOrigin.jpg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero - Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hertfordshire Fire & Rescue, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, plastic sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? ESC(s?)? Details of chain and gear ratio? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/MarkMellors @MarkMellors] [http://jellyandmarshmallows.co.uk/ Mark’s website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] d64b09e134d5eea1fee00715f3e5cd7706a1d1f5 95 94 2023-07-12T17:21:29Z Cstubbs 3 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=RuleZeroProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Mark Mellors |Theme=Fire Engine |FirstRace=EMF 2018? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=@MarkMellors }} ==Background== [[File:RuleZeroOrigin.jpg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero - Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hertfordshire Fire & Rescue, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, ABS sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? ESC(s?)? Details of chain and gear ratio? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/MarkMellors @MarkMellors] [http://jellyandmarshmallows.co.uk/ Mark’s website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] eb589d6a3524e6203bf352e3f00ea13a6d549367 97 95 2023-07-12T17:23:24Z Cstubbs 3 /* Powertrain */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=RuleZeroProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Mark Mellors |Theme=Fire Engine |FirstRace=EMF 2018? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=@MarkMellors }} ==Background== [[File:RuleZeroOrigin.jpg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero - Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hertfordshire Fire & Rescue, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, ABS sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 10-12Ah, 12S Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs with BMS. (details?) 2kw scooter motor & 1.5kw ebike controller. (details?) Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/MarkMellors @MarkMellors] [http://jellyandmarshmallows.co.uk/ Mark’s website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 8917d4d397dbe80eca70001f7e55b407435102d2 98 97 2023-07-12T17:24:17Z Cstubbs 3 /* Powertrain */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=RuleZeroProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Mark Mellors |Theme=Fire Engine |FirstRace=EMF 2018? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=@MarkMellors }} ==Background== [[File:RuleZeroOrigin.jpg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero - Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hertfordshire Fire & Rescue, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, ABS sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 10-12Ah, 12S Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs with BMS. (details?) 2kw scooter motor & 1.5kw ebike controller. (details?) Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:RuleZeroMotor.jpeg|thumb|alt=Motor and chain]] |} {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/MarkMellors @MarkMellors] [http://jellyandmarshmallows.co.uk/ Mark’s website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 594c3a3d79b8e3e8cf27dac52a220968a48d55ac 99 98 2023-07-12T17:24:57Z Cstubbs 3 /* Powertrain */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=RuleZeroProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Mark Mellors |Theme=Fire Engine |FirstRace=EMF 2018? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=@MarkMellors }} ==Background== [[File:RuleZeroOrigin.jpg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero - Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hertfordshire Fire & Rescue, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, ABS sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 10-12Ah, 12S Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs with BMS. (details?) 2kw scooter motor & 1.5kw ebike controller. (details?) Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:RuleZeroMotor.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/MarkMellors @MarkMellors] [http://jellyandmarshmallows.co.uk/ Mark’s website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] ca5a66320629e3c6502978c1af83ae5ad55afffd 6 27 92 2023-07-12T17:13:05Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 28 96 2023-07-12T17:23:19Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 29 101 2023-07-12T17:41:43Z Cstubbs 3 Flowchart credit lsdzs.com wikitext text/x-wiki == Summary == Flowchart credit lsdzs.com ae09662c2b7b664b37751f4723fb4dc21d472e01 0 30 102 2023-07-12T17:46:05Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "== Brushless Motors == See [[Rule Zero]] === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]]..." wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == See [[Rule Zero]] === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] e73af94425ae4b6f7ea5b7100fd299c513aacb1c 103 102 2023-07-12T17:47:15Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 415b1c11adc83f0b2ef09f89aa7f9ea3216fa4a7 104 103 2023-07-12T18:39:14Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hoverboards */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs, and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pnuematic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 4f7bbef3732e2d7b8421955c37624e8bbfe78f11 105 104 2023-07-12T20:24:13Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hoverboards */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pnuematic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] bb5920eb7d5213ff82d8e311f26ea91f64254c54 0 2 106 51 2023-07-14T20:57:02Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} <youtube>oSSG0ZJpOvY</youtube> ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] e56facdd20cca1319937adc4c645ea312784cab3 107 106 2023-07-14T20:59:31Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>oSSG0ZJpOvY</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 62bcb8086b04fd651c42be11e422de2ca7869280 109 107 2023-07-14T21:01:26Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>oSSG0ZJpOvY</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | £309.31 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Tyres | £103.25 | |- | Wood for frame | £50.00 | |- | 12V reg | £11.39 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pi enclosure | £13.79 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Throttle Arduino | £3.19 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering wheel + pedals | £7.59 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Steering rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Horn | Excluded | |- | Wood for bumpers | Excluded | |- | Battery 1 | Excluded | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |- | Lighting and control pi | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 730e6dafee37fd514c4ad152184dc2813416286b 0 24 108 88 2023-07-14T21:01:12Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=PinkMyRideProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Carl Yeo |Theme=Pink BMW |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Modified Alternator |ESC=2x ?? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>HQtidBeqB-0</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? What did you have to modify? ESC(s?)? What do your switches do? Details of chain and gear ratio? Do you have a diff? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] RGB Headlights? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **3rd place (for what?). ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Extremely painful to drive. {{clear}} ==Resources== Socials to share? Websites? Resources? {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] dfdb7c7fc9f3ad87aec8b724fa3336632651a6b2 150 108 2023-07-16T22:06:55Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=PinkMyRideProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Carl Yeo |Theme=Pink BMW |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Modified Alternator |ESC=2x ?? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>HQtidBeqB-0</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? What did you have to modify? ESC(s?)? What do your switches do? Details of chain and gear ratio? Do you have a diff? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] RGB Headlights? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **3rd place (for what?). ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Extremely painful to drive. {{clear}} ==Resources== Socials to share? Websites? Resources? {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] f1d81ede40c58637e296aef2f2c9032c752e71ec 0 1 110 100 2023-07-14T21:03:40Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *[[Motors & Controllers]] **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *[[Steering]] *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [[CYBR TRK]] [[:Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events * [[Scrumpy Cup 2023]] [[:Category:Events|View all Events]] 0fc1f76162c1e63470b55151bc24e7df7a64f1db 126 110 2023-07-14T22:34:27Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *[[Motors & Controllers]] **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *[[Steering]] *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers * [[CYBR TRK]] <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> [[:Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events * [[Scrumpy Cup 2023]] [[:Category:Events|View all Events]] 927049d55f2508a4be309ad9968afaf1cbcea2cb 127 126 2023-07-14T22:34:39Z Cstubbs 3 /* Racer Profiles */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. *[[Motors & Controllers]] **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *[[Steering]] *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> [[:Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events * [[Scrumpy Cup 2023]] [[:Category:Events|View all Events]] 3483733cf5db1ea065b7188b2cab6e6fb59a2bc2 128 127 2023-07-14T22:37:46Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="pages">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *[[Motors & Controllers]] **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *[[Steering]] *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events * [[Scrumpy Cup 2023]] [[:Category:Events|View all Events]] 59f4b6662053e4886748565ff7d374aa23926cfd 130 128 2023-07-14T22:40:11Z Cstubbs 3 /* Event Reports */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="pages">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *[[Motors & Controllers]] **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *[[Steering]] *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> * [[Scrumpy Cup 2023]] [[:Category:Events|View all Events]] cddcd16d545dd1fc2e8b3fb149a59f896967248c 131 130 2023-07-14T22:40:18Z Cstubbs 3 /* Event Reports */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="pages">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *[[Motors & Controllers]] **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *[[Steering]] *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> d621bfa10b3a2767038deeaf712d465a4d1a7588 132 131 2023-07-14T22:42:16Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="1">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *[[Motors & Controllers]] **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *[[Steering]] *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 09ff3fa7bb99ad7429a69ec96661758a8f8e4824 133 132 2023-07-14T22:42:32Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *[[Motors & Controllers]] **Brushless Motors & E-Scooter Controllers **Alternators & ESCs **Hoverboards *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *[[Steering]] *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 87c6d8f1c97c266d601e6cf72ae16ca7f3f84f6d 134 133 2023-07-14T22:44:48Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Batteries *Wiring *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 2226e87417d9b8f78dfbaee033f4cee04265935b 6 31 111 2023-07-14T21:25:36Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 112 111 2023-07-14T21:26:18Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Credit - TomIII- Photobucket 91029725080ae0a3877a4f63ea296c4f94cd175e 6 32 113 2023-07-14T21:47:54Z Cstubbs 3 Credit - www.super7thheaven.co.uk wikitext text/x-wiki == Summary == Credit - www.super7thheaven.co.uk 10cc63711be8294f3b12515b5c7dd90760e794e6 0 33 114 2023-07-14T21:49:11Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "==Geometry== ===Camber=== A moderate amount of negative camber will give your racer better tyre contact when the tyre is being distorted during agressive cornering. ===Caster/Trail=== Caster.jpg [[File:Caster.jpg|left]] A moderate amount of caster angle / trail will help your steering naturally return to the centre, and assist with understeer (push). When combined with Kingpin Inclination and scrub radius, caster will also allow racers with a rigid frame to lift their i..." wikitext text/x-wiki ==Geometry== ===Camber=== A moderate amount of negative camber will give your racer better tyre contact when the tyre is being distorted during agressive cornering. ===Caster/Trail=== Caster.jpg [[File:Caster.jpg|left]] A moderate amount of caster angle / trail will help your steering naturally return to the centre, and assist with understeer (push). When combined with Kingpin Inclination and scrub radius, caster will also allow racers with a rigid frame to lift their inside rear tyre while cornering, which is beneficial with a live axle to avoid understeer. It should be noted this does make steering heavier, as you are partly lifting your own weight with each turn. (Image Credit - super7thheaven.co.uk) ===Toe In/Out=== Toe is likely not too important to Hacky Racers. Some toe in generally makes steering more stable, and toe out generally makes steering more agressive. Excessive amounts of toe in either direction will lead to tyre wear. ===Kingpin inclination=== ===Ackermann Geometry=== When cornering, your inside wheel needs to follow a tighter radius than your outside wheel. This can be achieved through Ackerman geometry, which through a simple mechanism, turns your inside wheel more aggressively than your outside wheel. The typical general rule is that your steering arms should be attached at a slight angle, so if extended from the king pin, they would cross at the centre of the rear axle. (Image Credit - TomIII- Photobucket) [[File:AckermannDia.jpg|left]] This is simple to achieve on rear facing steering arms, which can simply be angled inwards slightly. However, if your steering arms are forward facing, they should be angled outwards. If this would interfere with your tyres, the same effect can be achieved by crossing the tie rods on the pitman arm by the same distance that an angled steering arm would produce. [[File:CybrTrkPitman.jpg|thumb|left]] ===Resources=== *[https://www.greenpower.co.uk/node/409 Greenpower Steering Systems] 502ac67c531aef07bbac6c74a60131ac362c581a 115 114 2023-07-14T21:50:28Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Geometry== ===Camber=== A moderate amount of negative camber will give your racer better tyre contact when the tyre is being distorted during agressive cornering. {{clear}} ===Caster/Trail=== [[File:Caster.jpg|left]] A moderate amount of caster angle / trail will help your steering naturally return to the centre, and assist with understeer (push). When combined with Kingpin Inclination and scrub radius, caster will also allow racers with a rigid frame to lift their inside rear tyre while cornering, which is beneficial with a live axle to avoid understeer. It should be noted this does make steering heavier, as you are partly lifting your own weight with each turn. (Image Credit - super7thheaven.co.uk) {{clear}} ===Toe In/Out=== Toe is likely not too important to Hacky Racers. Some toe in generally makes steering more stable, and toe out generally makes steering more agressive. Excessive amounts of toe in either direction will lead to tyre wear. {{clear}} ===Kingpin inclination=== {{clear}} ===Ackermann Geometry=== When cornering, your inside wheel needs to follow a tighter radius than your outside wheel. This can be achieved through Ackerman geometry, which through a simple mechanism, turns your inside wheel more aggressively than your outside wheel. The typical general rule is that your steering arms should be attached at a slight angle, so if extended from the king pin, they would cross at the centre of the rear axle. (Image Credit - TomIII- Photobucket) [[File:AckermannDia.jpg|left]] This is simple to achieve on rear facing steering arms, which can simply be angled inwards slightly. However, if your steering arms are forward facing, they should be angled outwards. If this would interfere with your tyres, the same effect can be achieved by crossing the tie rods on the pitman arm by the same distance that an angled steering arm would produce. [[File:CybrTrkPitman.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ===Resources=== *[https://www.greenpower.co.uk/node/409 Greenpower Steering Systems] {{clear}} {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] d82842a2c9aabbdea0fb03ab1813f951f50ab78e 117 115 2023-07-14T21:56:51Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Geometry== ===Camber=== A moderate amount of negative camber will give your racer better tyre contact when the tyre is being distorted during agressive cornering. {{clear}} ===Caster/Trail=== [[File:Caster.jpg|left]] A moderate amount of caster angle / trail will help your steering naturally return to the centre, and assist with understeer (push). When combined with Kingpin Inclination and scrub radius, caster will also allow racers with a rigid frame to lift their inside rear tyre while cornering, which is beneficial with a live axle to avoid understeer. It should be noted this does make steering heavier, as you are partly lifting your own weight with each turn. (Image Credit - super7thheaven.co.uk) {{clear}} ===Toe In/Out=== Toe is likely not too important to Hacky Racers. Some toe in generally makes steering more stable, and toe out generally makes steering more agressive. Excessive amounts of toe in either direction will lead to tyre wear. {{clear}} ===Kingpin inclination=== {{clear}} ===Ackermann Geometry=== [[File:AckermannRadius.jpg|left]] When cornering, your inside wheel needs to follow a tighter radius than your outside wheel. This can be achieved through Ackerman geometry, which through a simple mechanism, turns your inside wheel more aggressively than your outside wheel. The typical general rule is that your steering arms should be attached at a slight angle, so if extended from the king pin, they would cross at the centre of the rear axle. (Image Credit - TomIII- Photobucket) [[File:AckermannDia.jpg|right]] This is simple to achieve on rear facing steering arms, which can simply be angled inwards slightly. However, if your steering arms are forward facing, they should be angled outwards. If this would interfere with your tyres, the same effect can be achieved by crossing the tie rods on the pitman arm by the same distance that an angled steering arm would produce. [[File:AckermannForwardFacingPitman.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ===Resources=== *[https://www.greenpower.co.uk/node/409 Greenpower Steering Systems] {{clear}} {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 118c90987b8a8a951d13c33c3813b66209157b45 118 117 2023-07-14T21:57:30Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Geometry== ===Camber=== A moderate amount of negative camber will give your racer better tyre contact when the tyre is being distorted during agressive cornering. {{clear}} ===Caster/Trail=== [[File:Caster.jpg|thumb|right]] A moderate amount of caster angle / trail will help your steering naturally return to the centre, and assist with understeer (push). When combined with Kingpin Inclination and scrub radius, caster will also allow racers with a rigid frame to lift their inside rear tyre while cornering, which is beneficial with a live axle to avoid understeer. It should be noted this does make steering heavier, as you are partly lifting your own weight with each turn. (Image Credit - super7thheaven.co.uk) {{clear}} ===Toe In/Out=== Toe is likely not too important to Hacky Racers. Some toe in generally makes steering more stable, and toe out generally makes steering more agressive. Excessive amounts of toe in either direction will lead to tyre wear. {{clear}} ===Kingpin inclination=== {{clear}} ===Ackermann Geometry=== [[File:AckermannRadius.jpg|left]] When cornering, your inside wheel needs to follow a tighter radius than your outside wheel. This can be achieved through Ackerman geometry, which through a simple mechanism, turns your inside wheel more aggressively than your outside wheel. The typical general rule is that your steering arms should be attached at a slight angle, so if extended from the king pin, they would cross at the centre of the rear axle. (Image Credit - TomIII- Photobucket) [[File:AckermannDia.jpg|right]] This is simple to achieve on rear facing steering arms, which can simply be angled inwards slightly. However, if your steering arms are forward facing, they should be angled outwards. If this would interfere with your tyres, the same effect can be achieved by crossing the tie rods on the pitman arm by the same distance that an angled steering arm would produce. [[File:AckermannForwardFacingPitman.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ===Resources=== *[https://www.greenpower.co.uk/node/409 Greenpower Steering Systems] {{clear}} {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 9fc69c496e1654cd5896b1ab5480c7c44eadf534 120 118 2023-07-14T22:09:57Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Geometry== ===Camber=== [[File:Camber.jpg|thumb|right]] A moderate amount of negative camber will give your racer better tyre contact when the tyre is being distorted during agressive cornering. Around 2-5 degrees is probably a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Caster/Trail=== [[File:Caster.jpg|thumb|right]] A moderate amount of caster angle / trail will help your steering naturally return to the centre, and assist with understeer (push). When combined with Kingpin Inclination and scrub radius, caster will also allow racers with a rigid frame to lift their inside rear tyre while cornering, which is beneficial with a live axle to avoid understeer. It should be noted this does make steering heavier, as you are partly lifting your own weight with each turn. (Image Credit - super7thheaven.co.uk) Around 2-5 degrees of (forward pointing) caster and 10-30mm of trail (steering axis ahead of wheel centre) is probably a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Toe In/Out=== Toe is likely not too important to Hacky Racers. Some toe in generally makes steering more stable, and toe out generally makes steering more agressive. Excessive amounts of toe in either direction will lead to tyre wear. {{clear}} ===Kingpin inclination=== In a simple steering setup, Kingpin inclination may also be how you achieve camber, so around 2-5 degrees again is a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Ackermann Geometry=== [[File:AckermannRadius.jpg|left]] When cornering, your inside wheel needs to follow a tighter radius than your outside wheel. This can be achieved through Ackerman geometry, which through a simple mechanism, turns your inside wheel more aggressively than your outside wheel. The typical general rule is that your steering arms should be attached at a slight angle, so if extended from the king pin, they would cross at the centre of the rear axle. (Image Credit - TomIII- Photobucket) [[File:AckermannDia.jpg|right]] This is simple to achieve on rear facing steering arms, which can simply be angled inwards slightly. However, if your steering arms are forward facing, they should be angled outwards. If this would interfere with your tyres, the same effect can be achieved by crossing the tie rods on the pitman arm by the same distance that an angled steering arm would produce. [[File:AckermannForwardFacingPitman.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ===Resources=== *[https://www.greenpower.co.uk/node/409 Greenpower Steering Systems] *[https://www.makerprojectlab.com/making-the-kitty-grabs-back-electric-go-kart/ Making the Kitty Grabs Back Electric Go Kart] {{clear}} {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 2aa8b778e16dd9a6db2dde849676a134812ba36f 122 120 2023-07-14T22:25:24Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Geometry== ===Camber=== [[File:Camber.jpg|thumb|right]] A moderate amount of negative camber will give your racer better tyre contact when the tyre is being distorted during agressive cornering. Around 2-5 degrees is probably a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Caster/Trail=== [[File:Caster.jpg|thumb|right]] A moderate amount of caster angle / trail will help your steering naturally return to the centre, and assist with understeer (push). When combined with Kingpin Inclination and scrub radius, caster will also allow racers with a rigid frame to lift their inside rear tyre while cornering, which is beneficial with a live axle to avoid understeer. It should be noted this does make steering heavier, as you are partly lifting your own weight with each turn. (Image Credit - super7thheaven.co.uk) Around 2-5 degrees of (forward pointing) caster and 10-30mm of trail (steering axis ahead of wheel centre) is probably a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Toe In/Out=== Toe is likely not too important to Hacky Racers. Some toe in generally makes steering more stable, and toe out generally makes steering more agressive. Excessive amounts of toe in either direction will lead to tyre wear. {{clear}} ===Kingpin Inclination / Scrub Radius=== [[File:Kingpin Geometry.jpg|thumb|right]] When combined with caster, KPI can help in lifting the rear wheel to improve cornering on live axle racers. See Caster/Trail section In a simple steering setup, Kingpin inclination may also be how you achieve camber, so around 2-5 degrees again is a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Ackermann Geometry=== [[File:AckermannRadius.jpg|left]] When cornering, your inside wheel needs to follow a tighter radius than your outside wheel. This can be achieved through Ackerman geometry, which through a simple mechanism, turns your inside wheel more aggressively than your outside wheel. The typical general rule is that your steering arms should be attached at a slight angle, so if extended from the king pin, they would cross at the centre of the rear axle. (Image Credit - TomIII- Photobucket) [[File:AckermannDia.jpg|right]] This is simple to achieve on rear facing steering arms, which can simply be angled inwards slightly. However, if your steering arms are forward facing, they should be angled outwards. If this would interfere with your tyres, the same effect can be achieved by crossing the tie rods on the pitman arm by the same distance that an angled steering arm would produce. [[File:AckermannForwardFacingPitman.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ===Resources=== *[https://www.greenpower.co.uk/node/409 Greenpower Steering Systems] *[https://www.makerprojectlab.com/making-the-kitty-grabs-back-electric-go-kart/ Making the Kitty Grabs Back Electric Go Kart] {{clear}} {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] f32463dd90aa01ae2b4566613ac2ec42571358a3 124 122 2023-07-14T22:31:47Z Cstubbs 3 /* Ackermann Geometry */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Geometry== ===Camber=== [[File:Camber.jpg|thumb|right]] A moderate amount of negative camber will give your racer better tyre contact when the tyre is being distorted during agressive cornering. Around 2-5 degrees is probably a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Caster/Trail=== [[File:Caster.jpg|thumb|right]] A moderate amount of caster angle / trail will help your steering naturally return to the centre, and assist with understeer (push). When combined with Kingpin Inclination and scrub radius, caster will also allow racers with a rigid frame to lift their inside rear tyre while cornering, which is beneficial with a live axle to avoid understeer. It should be noted this does make steering heavier, as you are partly lifting your own weight with each turn. (Image Credit - super7thheaven.co.uk) Around 2-5 degrees of (forward pointing) caster and 10-30mm of trail (steering axis ahead of wheel centre) is probably a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Toe In/Out=== Toe is likely not too important to Hacky Racers. Some toe in generally makes steering more stable, and toe out generally makes steering more agressive. Excessive amounts of toe in either direction will lead to tyre wear. {{clear}} ===Kingpin Inclination / Scrub Radius=== [[File:Kingpin Geometry.jpg|thumb|right]] When combined with caster, KPI can help in lifting the rear wheel to improve cornering on live axle racers. See Caster/Trail section In a simple steering setup, Kingpin inclination may also be how you achieve camber, so around 2-5 degrees again is a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Ackermann Geometry=== [[File:AckermannRadius.jpg|left]] When cornering, your inside wheel needs to follow a tighter radius than your outside wheel. This can be achieved through Ackerman geometry, which through a simple mechanism, turns your inside wheel more aggressively than your outside wheel. Image credit - Vehicle Steering Systems - glue-it.co.uk The typical general rule is that your steering arms should be attached at a slight angle, so if extended from the king pin, they would cross at the centre of the rear axle. (Image Credit - TomIII- Photobucket) [[File:AckermannDia.jpg|right]] This is simple to achieve on rear facing steering arms, which can simply be angled inwards slightly. However, if your steering arms are forward facing, they should be angled outwards. If this would interfere with your tyres, the same effect can be achieved by crossing the tie rods on the pitman arm by the same distance that an angled steering arm would produce. [[File:AckermannForwardFacingPitman.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ===Resources=== *[https://www.greenpower.co.uk/node/409 Greenpower Steering Systems] *[https://www.makerprojectlab.com/making-the-kitty-grabs-back-electric-go-kart/ Making the Kitty Grabs Back Electric Go Kart] {{clear}} {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] a4f212db5bf1e000c619eaec5d50f9fac80f2404 125 124 2023-07-14T22:32:28Z Cstubbs 3 /* Ackermann Geometry */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Geometry== ===Camber=== [[File:Camber.jpg|thumb|right]] A moderate amount of negative camber will give your racer better tyre contact when the tyre is being distorted during agressive cornering. Around 2-5 degrees is probably a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Caster/Trail=== [[File:Caster.jpg|thumb|right]] A moderate amount of caster angle / trail will help your steering naturally return to the centre, and assist with understeer (push). When combined with Kingpin Inclination and scrub radius, caster will also allow racers with a rigid frame to lift their inside rear tyre while cornering, which is beneficial with a live axle to avoid understeer. It should be noted this does make steering heavier, as you are partly lifting your own weight with each turn. (Image Credit - super7thheaven.co.uk) Around 2-5 degrees of (forward pointing) caster and 10-30mm of trail (steering axis ahead of wheel centre) is probably a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Toe In/Out=== Toe is likely not too important to Hacky Racers. Some toe in generally makes steering more stable, and toe out generally makes steering more agressive. Excessive amounts of toe in either direction will lead to tyre wear. {{clear}} ===Kingpin Inclination / Scrub Radius=== [[File:Kingpin Geometry.jpg|thumb|right]] When combined with caster, KPI can help in lifting the rear wheel to improve cornering on live axle racers. See Caster/Trail section In a simple steering setup, Kingpin inclination may also be how you achieve camber, so around 2-5 degrees again is a sensible starting point. {{clear}} ===Ackermann Geometry=== [[File:AckermannRadius.jpg|thumb|left]] When cornering, your inside wheel needs to follow a tighter radius than your outside wheel. This can be achieved through Ackerman geometry, which through a simple mechanism, turns your inside wheel more aggressively than your outside wheel. Image credit - Vehicle Steering Systems - glue-it.co.uk The typical general rule is that your steering arms should be attached at a slight angle, so if extended from the king pin, they would cross at the centre of the rear axle. (Image Credit - TomIII- Photobucket) [[File:AckermannDia.jpg|thumb|right]] This is simple to achieve on rear facing steering arms, which can simply be angled inwards slightly. However, if your steering arms are forward facing, they should be angled outwards. If this would interfere with your tyres, the same effect can be achieved by crossing the tie rods on the pitman arm by the same distance that an angled steering arm would produce. [[File:AckermannForwardFacingPitman.jpg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ===Resources=== *[https://www.greenpower.co.uk/node/409 Greenpower Steering Systems] *[https://www.makerprojectlab.com/making-the-kitty-grabs-back-electric-go-kart/ Making the Kitty Grabs Back Electric Go Kart] {{clear}} {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 1641dc3bcf9180b4465f74c1b36fc0cc97cdf58a 6 34 116 2023-07-14T21:56:08Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 35 119 2023-07-14T22:09:40Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 36 121 2023-07-14T22:24:53Z Cstubbs 3 Credit - Milliken, Race Car Vehicle Dynamics wikitext text/x-wiki == Summary == Credit - Milliken, Race Car Vehicle Dynamics bcd2b6f8f08590a59034dbaebe71591a6a506408 6 37 123 2023-07-14T22:31:15Z Cstubbs 3 Credit - Vehicle Steering Systems - glue-it.co.uk wikitext text/x-wiki == Summary == Credit - Vehicle Steering Systems - glue-it.co.uk 5850a0d505bdf1b4fd00e63952b8c4866f51e3f6 14 38 129 2023-07-14T22:39:01Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "This category contains Knowlege Base entries for some technical bits you may need to build a Hacky Racer. To include a page in this list you can create a new page and add the tag <nowiki>[[Category:Knowledge Base]]</nowiki> to the bottom." wikitext text/x-wiki This category contains Knowlege Base entries for some technical bits you may need to build a Hacky Racer. To include a page in this list you can create a new page and add the tag <nowiki>[[Category:Knowledge Base]]</nowiki> to the bottom. 894989330bc5cac2483e28c20a798292096e802f 0 39 135 2023-07-14T22:50:37Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "==General== Expect to burn ~6000mAh in a race. You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL ==Li-Ion== *DIY packs - see [[CYBR TRK]] ==Used EV== ..." wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== Expect to burn ~6000mAh in a race. You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL ==Li-Ion== *DIY packs - see [[CYBR TRK]] ==Used EV== ... 3e93f912965b0a3869b67b350ade29d58e7d9596 136 135 2023-07-14T22:51:02Z Cstubbs 3 /* General */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Expect to burn ~6000mAh in a race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL ==Li-Ion== *DIY packs - see [[CYBR TRK]] ==Used EV== ... 494a1acb9f9f088cb700da3e89a537f8096c379b 6 40 137 2023-07-16T21:38:10Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 41 138 2023-07-16T21:38:21Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 42 139 2023-07-16T21:38:32Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 43 140 2023-07-16T21:40:22Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "==Kill Switch== Each car must have a kill switch or removable link that stops all current flow from the battery or all batteries to the motor(s). The operation of the kill switch should be obvious and it must be accessible so it can be used by marshals in an emergency. ===Removable Links=== An appropriately rated battery connector can be fitted with a wire link, which stops current flowing out of the battery when disconnected ===Isolators=== Battery isolator switches for..." wikitext text/x-wiki ==Kill Switch== Each car must have a kill switch or removable link that stops all current flow from the battery or all batteries to the motor(s). The operation of the kill switch should be obvious and it must be accessible so it can be used by marshals in an emergency. ===Removable Links=== An appropriately rated battery connector can be fitted with a wire link, which stops current flowing out of the battery when disconnected ===Isolators=== Battery isolator switches for cars, caravans and boats are usually rated to switch reasonable DC currents. They may often not be rated to the full battery voltage used by Hacky Racers, but are still quite a good choice. Simple models featuring a quarter turn removable key work okay, but it is possible to accidently turn off the key by knocking the switch. US teams also note that these are particularly prone to contacts welding. [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Techniks-BS01-Battery-Isolator-Switch/dp/B009CRM34I/ Tecniks BS01 100 Amps Battery Isolator Cutoff Switch] Other models are available which are high current battery isolators, but are actuated by twist-on, push-off. [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221307411539 Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch Twist On / Push Off - Emergency Stop 250A] Depending on your controller, large inrush currents may cause pitting and welding of the contacts. If your controller does not feature a soft start, this can be implemented using another switch and a resistor. Standard e-stop style buttons are often not rated to break large amounts of DC current, and are not ideal. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BatteryIsolatorKey.jpg|thumb|alt=Key actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:BatteryIsolatorPush.jpg|thumb|alt=Twist actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:Estop.jpg|thumb|alt=E Stop button - not ideal]] |} bac860ad5c942f082ec58c640594ce3332fd8537 141 140 2023-07-16T21:41:54Z Cstubbs 3 /* Isolators */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Kill Switch== Each car must have a kill switch or removable link that stops all current flow from the battery or all batteries to the motor(s). The operation of the kill switch should be obvious and it must be accessible so it can be used by marshals in an emergency. ===Removable Links=== An appropriately rated battery connector can be fitted with a wire link, which stops current flowing out of the battery when disconnected ===Isolators=== Battery isolator switches for cars, caravans and boats are usually rated to switch reasonable DC currents. They may often not be rated to the full battery voltage used by Hacky Racers, but are still quite a good choice. Simple models featuring a quarter turn removable key work okay, but it is possible to accidently turn off the key by knocking the switch. US teams also note that these are particularly prone to contacts welding. [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Techniks-BS01-Battery-Isolator-Switch/dp/B009CRM34I/ Tecniks BS01 100 Amps Battery Isolator Cutoff Switch] Other models are available which are high current battery isolators, but are actuated by twist-on, push-off. [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221307411539 Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch Twist On / Push Off - Emergency Stop 250A] Depending on your controller, large inrush currents may cause pitting and welding of the contacts. If your controller does not feature a soft start, this can be implemented using another switch and a resistor. Standard e-stop style buttons are often not rated to break large amounts of DC current, and are not ideal. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BatteryIsolatorKey.jpg|thumb|Key actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:BatteryIsolatorPush.jpg|thumb|Twist actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:Estop.jpg|thumb|E Stop button - not ideal]] |} 5520b1ae52ca7a0932fb28ab2742f65c1b71619c 142 141 2023-07-16T21:42:53Z Cstubbs 3 /* Isolators */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Kill Switch== Each car must have a kill switch or removable link that stops all current flow from the battery or all batteries to the motor(s). The operation of the kill switch should be obvious and it must be accessible so it can be used by marshals in an emergency. ===Removable Links=== An appropriately rated battery connector can be fitted with a wire link, which stops current flowing out of the battery when disconnected ===Isolators=== Battery isolator switches for cars, caravans and boats are usually rated to switch reasonable DC currents. They may often not be rated to the full battery voltage used by Hacky Racers, but are still quite a good choice. Simple models featuring a quarter turn removable key work okay, but it is possible to accidently turn off the key by knocking the switch. US teams also note that these are particularly prone to contacts welding. [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Techniks-BS01-Battery-Isolator-Switch/dp/B009CRM34I/ Tecniks BS01 100 Amps Battery Isolator Cutoff Switch] Other models are available which are high current battery isolators, but are actuated by twist-on, push-off. [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221307411539 Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch Twist On / Push Off - Emergency Stop 250A] Depending on your controller, large inrush currents may cause pitting and welding of the contacts. If your controller does not feature a soft start, this can be implemented using another switch and a resistor. Standard e-stop style buttons are often not rated to break large amounts of DC current, and are not ideal. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BatteryIsolatorKey.jpg|thumb|150px|Key actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:BatteryIsolatorPush.jpg|thumb|150px|Push/twist actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:Estop.jpg|thumb|150px|E Stop button - not ideal]] |} 3203f6c9f07a297340bbd662e067ac3135c39a93 143 142 2023-07-16T21:49:27Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Kill Switch== Each car must have a kill switch or removable link that stops all current flow from the battery or all batteries to the motor(s). The operation of the kill switch should be obvious and it must be accessible so it can be used by marshals in an emergency. ===Removable Links=== An appropriately rated battery connector can be fitted with a wire link, which stops current flowing out of the battery when disconnected ===Isolators=== Battery isolator switches for cars, caravans and boats are usually rated to switch reasonable DC currents. They may often not be rated to the full battery voltage used by Hacky Racers, but are still quite a good choice. Simple models featuring a quarter turn removable key work okay, but it is possible to accidently turn off the key by knocking the switch. US teams also note that these are particularly prone to contacts welding. [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Techniks-BS01-Battery-Isolator-Switch/dp/B009CRM34I/ Tecniks BS01 100 Amps Battery Isolator Cutoff Switch] Other models are available which are high current battery isolators, but are actuated by twist-on, push-off. [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221307411539 Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch Twist On / Push Off - Emergency Stop 250A] Depending on your controller, large inrush currents may cause pitting and welding of the contacts. If your controller does not feature a soft start, this can be implemented using another switch and a resistor. Standard e-stop style buttons are often not rated to break large amounts of DC current, and are not ideal. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BatteryIsolatorKey.jpg|thumb|150px|Key actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:BatteryIsolatorPush.jpg|thumb|150px|Push/twist actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:Estop.jpg|thumb|150px|E Stop button - not ideal]] |} ==Battery Connector== *XT90 *Anderson forklift connector (50/175A) *XT60 (low current rating - not ideal) *4mm HXT - only designed for 12AWG wire, which is a little small. c77cbe88cac2ad3b105bb0afdb458260ada0d63b 144 143 2023-07-16T21:59:43Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Kill Switch== Each car must have a kill switch or removable link that stops all current flow from the battery or all batteries to the motor(s). The operation of the kill switch should be obvious and it must be accessible so it can be used by marshals in an emergency. ===Removable Links=== An appropriately rated battery connector can be fitted with a wire link, which stops current flowing out of the battery when disconnected ===Isolators=== Battery isolator switches for cars, caravans and boats are usually rated to switch reasonable DC currents. They may often not be rated to the full battery voltage used by Hacky Racers, but are still quite a good choice. Simple models featuring a quarter turn removable key work okay, but it is possible to accidently turn off the key by knocking the switch. US teams also note that these are particularly prone to contacts welding. [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Techniks-BS01-Battery-Isolator-Switch/dp/B009CRM34I/ Tecniks BS01 100 Amps Battery Isolator Cutoff Switch] Other models are available which are high current battery isolators, but are actuated by twist-on, push-off. [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221307411539 Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch Twist On / Push Off - Emergency Stop 250A] Depending on your controller, large inrush currents may cause pitting and welding of the contacts. If your controller does not feature a soft start, this can be implemented using another switch and a resistor. Standard e-stop style buttons are often not rated to break large amounts of DC current, and are not ideal. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BatteryIsolatorKey.jpg|thumb|150px|Key actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:BatteryIsolatorPush.jpg|thumb|150px|Push/twist actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:Estop.jpg|thumb|150px|E Stop button - not ideal]] |} {{clear}} ----- ==Battery Connector== *XT90 *Anderson forklift connector (50/175A) *XT60 (low current rating - not ideal) *4mm HXT - only designed for 12AWG wire, which is a little small. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 3d4804167285b47ee544d3c1017b3f9dcbef5ac9 145 144 2023-07-16T22:00:05Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Kill Switch== Each car must have a kill switch or removable link that stops all current flow from the battery or all batteries to the motor(s). The operation of the kill switch should be obvious and it must be accessible so it can be used by marshals in an emergency. ===Removable Links=== An appropriately rated battery connector can be fitted with a wire link, which stops current flowing out of the battery when disconnected ===Isolators=== Battery isolator switches for cars, caravans and boats are usually rated to switch reasonable DC currents. They may often not be rated to the full battery voltage used by Hacky Racers, but are still quite a good choice. Simple models featuring a quarter turn removable key work okay, but it is possible to accidently turn off the key by knocking the switch. US teams also note that these are particularly prone to contacts welding. [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Techniks-BS01-Battery-Isolator-Switch/dp/B009CRM34I/ Tecniks BS01 100 Amps Battery Isolator Cutoff Switch] Other models are available which are high current battery isolators, but are actuated by twist-on, push-off. [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221307411539 Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch Twist On / Push Off - Emergency Stop 250A] Depending on your controller, large inrush currents may cause pitting and welding of the contacts. If your controller does not feature a soft start, this can be implemented using another switch and a resistor. Standard e-stop style buttons are often not rated to break large amounts of DC current, and are not ideal. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BatteryIsolatorKey.jpg|thumb|150px|Key actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:BatteryIsolatorPush.jpg|thumb|150px|Push/twist actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:Estop.jpg|thumb|150px|E Stop button - not ideal]] |} {{clear}} ==Battery Connector== *XT90 *Anderson forklift connector (50/175A) *XT60 (low current rating - not ideal) *4mm HXT - only designed for 12AWG wire, which is a little small. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 8359fc7e64341f3149da28e763fca0a19f9f7ac1 0 19 146 89 2023-07-16T22:01:21Z Cstubbs 3 /* Entrants */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CyberQuad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - Harrison? Arron? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # A # B # C ===Moxie=== # [[The Rat]] - Rory # [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris # [[Rule Zero]] - Mark ===Overall=== # [[LEtsGO]] - Chris # B # C [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] c8de107fffc53d0ee04017768639190ac5b1d505 6 44 147 2023-07-16T22:05:24Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 45 148 2023-07-16T22:05:56Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Racer |ProfilePic=CyberQuadProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Alex Shakespeare |Theme=Small Quad |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor?? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? Unrelated to tesla? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | Fil..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=CyberQuadProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Alex Shakespeare |Theme=Small Quad |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor?? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? Unrelated to tesla? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? ESC(s?)? Details of chain and gear ratio? Do you have a diff? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg.jpg|thumb|right]] ? {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== ? {{clear}} ==Resources== Socials to share? Websites? Resources? {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 8f4a73eaf08a12dd9112400ca2a7aad03409f786 149 148 2023-07-16T22:06:11Z Cstubbs 3 /* Other Features */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=CyberQuadProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Alex Shakespeare |Theme=Small Quad |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor?? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? Unrelated to tesla? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? ESC(s?)? Details of chain and gear ratio? Do you have a diff? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ? {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== ? {{clear}} ==Resources== Socials to share? Websites? Resources? {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 31eb7a144c32d8876aeccf81073731816a909c98 0 26 151 99 2023-07-16T22:07:37Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=RuleZeroProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Mark Mellors |Theme=Fire Engine |FirstRace=EMF 2018? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor? |Battery=?? |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact=@MarkMellors }} ==Background== [[File:RuleZeroOrigin.jpg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero - Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hertfordshire Fire & Rescue, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, ABS sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 10-12Ah, 12S Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs with BMS. (details?) 2kw scooter motor & 1.5kw ebike controller. (details?) Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:RuleZeroMotor.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/MarkMellors @MarkMellors] [http://jellyandmarshmallows.co.uk/ Mark’s website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 6bc16f7b451912f108c2f60dc51a6d035119ca6c 6 46 152 2023-07-16T22:12:56Z Cstubbs 3 Photo credit - Carl wikitext text/x-wiki == Summary == Photo credit - Carl 150ecb066c3e287d772b5fe54c2fb2de9e3b63a3 0 39 153 136 2023-07-16T22:22:04Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Expect to burn ~6000mAh in a race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL ==Li-Ion== *DIY packs - see [[CYBR TRK]] ==Used EV== ... {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] dbfdb2ee06209b464e507bdc5963a4bc1921e227 154 153 2023-07-16T22:28:57Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Expect to burn ~6000mAh in a race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. {{clear}} ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL {{clear}} ==Li-Ion== *DIY packs - see [[CYBR TRK]] {{clear}} ==Used EV== ... {{clear}} ==Chargers== *Turnigy Accucel / HTRC C150 - Runs directly from mains, only just charges packs between races at 1hr intervals *HOTA D6 Pro - Pro runs directly from mains, little faster than C150, popular in the pits. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] a3c3fca2635fc1f4f11687781e9b0adec123b730 160 154 2023-07-16T22:45:56Z Cstubbs 3 /* Li-Ion */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Expect to burn ~6000mAh in a race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. {{clear}} ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL {{clear}} ==Li-Ion== ===DIY pack for [[CYBR TRK]]=== *Cells are reclaimed Samsung 21700 30T from NKON. *Spot welded using an eBay China special PCB and handheld electrodes. **PCB needed some solder reinforcement as pictured where tracks started to cook. **Instructions called for ~80Ah battery. I ended up needing a 100Ah (1000cca) in parallel with slightly crusty 36Ah (330cca) being constantly topped off by a PSU to >14v for decent welds. **Electrodes need to be regularly redressed. Not too blunt, not too pointy. Like a small ball point pen seems to work. **Did try using rewound microwave oven transformer, pulsing a solid state relay. Seemed like not enough current for too much time. Electrodes would melt without welding the nickel at all. *Initially planned to use 0.3mm nickel strip for high current handling but getting pure 0.15mm to weld was tough enough, so that's what I went with. It's in links of 3 parallel rungs which seems to stand up to the task. *BMS - Cheap and supposedly rated for 40A continuous, 70A peak (rules stipulate 30A fuse at 12s). Performance in races is somewhat lacking. Just about keeps up, but runs so hot it melts the battery wrap. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LiIonDIYPack.jpeg|thumb|150px|Pack welded]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMS.jpeg|thumb|150px|BMS fitted - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMSebay.jpeg|thumb|150px|Cheap BMS - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYWelder.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder PCB, Electrodes, Batteries]] | [[File:LiIonDIYProbes.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder electrode dressing]] |} {{clear}} ==Used EV== ... {{clear}} ==Chargers== *Turnigy Accucel / HTRC C150 - Runs directly from mains, only just charges packs between races at 1hr intervals *HOTA D6 Pro - Pro runs directly from mains, little faster than C150, popular in the pits. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 8175c27b6e294a8dcff44301b4811d3d0b28e7ef 174 160 2023-07-19T18:46:24Z Cstubbs 3 /* Li-Ion */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Expect to burn ~6000mAh in a race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. {{clear}} ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL {{clear}} ==Li-Ion== ===DIY pack for [[CYBR TRK]]=== *Cells are reclaimed Samsung 21700 30T from NKON. *Spot welded using an eBay China special PCB and handheld electrodes. **PCB needed some solder reinforcement as pictured where tracks started to cook. **Instructions called for ~80Ah battery. I ended up needing a 100Ah (1000cca) in parallel with slightly crusty 36Ah (330cca) being constantly topped off by a PSU to >14v for decent welds. **Electrodes need to be regularly redressed. Not too blunt, not too pointy. Like a small ball point pen seems to work. **Did try using rewound microwave oven transformer, pulsing a solid state relay. Seemed like not enough current for too much time. Electrodes would melt without welding the nickel at all. *Initially planned to use 0.3mm nickel strip for high current handling but getting pure 0.15mm to weld was tough enough, so that's what I went with. It's in links of 3 parallel rungs which seems to stand up to the task. *BMS - Cheap and supposedly rated for 40A continuous, 70A peak (rules stipulate 30A fuse at 12s). Performance in races is somewhat lacking. Just about keeps up, but runs so hot it melts the battery wrap. **Plan to try 100A DALY unit {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LiIonDIYPack.jpeg|thumb|150px|Pack welded]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMS.jpeg|thumb|150px|BMS fitted - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMSebay.jpeg|thumb|150px|Cheap BMS - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYWelder.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder PCB, Electrodes, Batteries]] | [[File:LiIonDIYProbes.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder electrode dressing]] |} ===DIY pack for [[Rule Zero]]=== *BMS for "big packs": [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001111512716.html 12S/45A version of Aliexpress BMS] *Secondary BMS: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HNF628V/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item Amazon 14s 40A Lithium Battery Protection Board] {{clear}} ==Used EV== ... {{clear}} ==Chargers== *Turnigy Accucel / HTRC C150 - Runs directly from mains, only just charges packs between races at 1hr intervals *HOTA D6 Pro - Pro runs directly from mains, little faster than C150, popular in the pits. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 9f2af53664c7114d63ec4dc185276b5ea8602224 6 47 155 2023-07-16T22:39:49Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 48 156 2023-07-16T22:40:11Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 49 157 2023-07-16T22:40:33Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 50 158 2023-07-16T22:40:58Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 51 159 2023-07-16T22:41:17Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 1 161 134 2023-07-16T22:53:07Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Wheels & Tyres *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 85b0b4e8e532f6aa09540615a6597e247b06df56 6 52 162 2023-07-17T17:46:00Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 53 163 2023-07-17T17:46:17Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 54 164 2023-07-17T17:46:39Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 55 165 2023-07-17T17:47:52Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "==General== *Most Racers employ disc brakes of some description. Brakes which apply force directly to the tyres or ground are not allowed. Motor / regen braking is allowed, but an emergency mechanical brake must also be present. {{clear}} ==Hoverboard Hub Motors== It is possible to fit a disc brake directly to the inside of a hoverboard hub motor. [[CYBR TRK]] uses a ~110mm dia brake kit for a Xiaomi M365 e-scooter. The mounting holes were re-drilled at a PCD which wou..." wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Most Racers employ disc brakes of some description. Brakes which apply force directly to the tyres or ground are not allowed. Motor / regen braking is allowed, but an emergency mechanical brake must also be present. {{clear}} ==Hoverboard Hub Motors== It is possible to fit a disc brake directly to the inside of a hoverboard hub motor. [[CYBR TRK]] uses a ~110mm dia brake kit for a Xiaomi M365 e-scooter. The mounting holes were re-drilled at a PCD which would not interfere with any other parts of the motor, and fitted using 15mm threaded standoffs. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:CYBR TRK brake disc.jpg|thumb|150px|Modified disc brake.]] | [[File:CYBR TRK inside hub brake.jpg|thumb|150px|Inside of hub motor showing brake mounts.]] | [[File:CYBR TRK outside brake.jpg|thumb|150px|Mounted brake on hub motor.]] |} {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 19d4e8f7863873481220889cb47b7caf9c85d601 0 19 166 146 2023-07-17T18:11:32Z Cstubbs 3 /* Racing */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CyberQuad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - Harrison? Arron? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # [[LEtsGO]] - Chris # [[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan # [[CyberQuad]] - Alex ===Moxie=== # [[The Rat]] - Rory # [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris # [[Rule Zero]] - Mark ===Overall=== # [[LEtsGO]] - Chris # B # C [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] c9648c5936d94959e35008db65df37bd84310c53 168 166 2023-07-19T16:27:57Z Cstubbs 3 /* Results */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CyberQuad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - Harrison? Arron? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # [[LEtsGO]] - Chris # [[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan # [[CyberQuad]] - Alex ===Moxie=== # [[The Rat]] - Rory # [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris # [[Rule Zero]] - Mark ===Overall=== # [[LEtsGO]] - Chris # B # C {{Race results |OverallP1=TestA |OverallP2=TestB |OverallP3=TestC }} [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] fcf5766e642da45c0f2abfd1374b15fdfd2dfa4a 169 168 2023-07-19T16:29:16Z Cstubbs 3 /* Results */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CyberQuad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - Harrison? Arron? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== ===Racing=== # [[LEtsGO]] - Chris # [[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan # [[CyberQuad]] - Alex ===Moxie=== # [[The Rat]] - Rory # [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris # [[Rule Zero]] - Mark ===Overall=== # [[LEtsGO]] - Chris # B # C {{Race results |RacingP1=[[LEtsGO]] - Chris |RacingP2=[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan |RacingP3=[[CyberQuad]] - Alex |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[Rule Zero]] - Mark |OverallP1=[[LEtsGO]] - Chris |OverallP2=TestB |OverallP3=TestC }} [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 55fe2a0a6cc25fd6466f5842dc4fbcf4a17db4a6 170 169 2023-07-19T16:29:43Z Cstubbs 3 /* Results */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CyberQuad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - Harrison? Arron? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[LEtsGO]] - Chris |RacingP2=[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan |RacingP3=[[CyberQuad]] - Alex |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[Rule Zero]] - Mark |OverallP1=[[LEtsGO]] - Chris |OverallP2=B |OverallP3=C }} [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 7603ebb03850659c0388222cb1b592780d1fcb4d 10 56 167 2023-07-19T16:26:56Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "===Racing=== # {{{RacingP1}}} # {{{RacingP2}}} # {{{RacingP3}}} ===Moxie=== # {{{MoxieP1}}} # {{{MoxieP2}}} # {{{MoxieP3}}} ===Overall=== # {{{OverallP1}}} # {{{OverallP2}}} # {{{OverallP3}}}" wikitext text/x-wiki ===Racing=== # {{{RacingP1}}} # {{{RacingP2}}} # {{{RacingP3}}} ===Moxie=== # {{{MoxieP1}}} # {{{MoxieP2}}} # {{{MoxieP3}}} ===Overall=== # {{{OverallP1}}} # {{{OverallP2}}} # {{{OverallP3}}} 8e7ab8a97fa58a633cb6459aa33b6efe6e76f9a8 171 167 2023-07-19T17:38:18Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ===Racing=== # {{{RacingP1}}} # {{{RacingP2}}} # {{{RacingP3}}} ===Moxie=== # {{{MoxieP1}}} # {{{MoxieP2}}} # {{{MoxieP3}}} ===Overall=== # [[OverallP1 property::{{{OverallP1}}}]] # {{{OverallP2}}} # {{{OverallP3}}} 8497e3f55fa7815a7cabf48fb6ac4a09752ba8eb 198 171 2023-08-01T11:28:53Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ===Racing=== # {{{RacingP1}}} # {{{RacingP2}}} {{If empty |{{{# {{{RacingP3}}}}}} |none}} ===Moxie=== # {{{MoxieP1}}} # {{{MoxieP2}}} # {{{MoxieP3}}} ===Overall=== # [[OverallP1 property::{{{OverallP1}}}]] # {{{OverallP2}}} # {{{OverallP3}}} f4b48ace1f16e35793e00ddafb364388ef143311 199 198 2023-08-01T11:55:41Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ===Racing=== # {{{RacingP1}}} # {{{RacingP2}}} # {{{RacingP3}}} ===Moxie=== # {{{MoxieP1}}} # {{{MoxieP2}}} # {{{MoxieP3}}} ===Overall=== # {{{OverallP1}}} # {{{OverallP2}}} # {{{OverallP3}}} 8e7ab8a97fa58a633cb6459aa33b6efe6e76f9a8 0 30 172 105 2023-07-19T18:43:03Z Cstubbs 3 /* Brushless Motors */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pnuematic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 9f48df55382dee6ca04a619ab15751628c45e59e 173 172 2023-07-19T18:43:10Z Cstubbs 3 /* Vevor Motors */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pnuematic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 97d38788c76e3859f602e236244f5c512fe6191d 190 173 2023-07-21T17:37:51Z Markmellors 1 added hall sensor comparison table wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pnuematic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recomendded by !! datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal |- | 3144 || || Michael West || https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal |} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 48346025e06d276dc5be47132c5fc1fa4ae4e32b 191 190 2023-07-22T16:27:10Z Markmellors 1 added suitability column wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pnuematic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width:25%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by !! datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] a05d2d756dc304f979f6b629247ffa35577ab4c0 192 191 2023-07-22T16:41:40Z Markmellors 1 unsuccessful attempt at table formatting wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pnuematic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 603892c640bfc01d79542a1edbbe84e75f7c6c56 193 192 2023-07-22T17:28:11Z Markmellors 1 added link text to datasheet links, to shorten the table wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pnuematic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 2dcf7ac71113aa89b6a8fb9dc7c4cd3deee5a80a 0 57 175 2023-07-19T20:50:41Z Shakesc 6 LEtsGO Hacky Racer wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=CyberQuadProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? Unrelated to tesla? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? ESC(s?)? Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ? {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 0222f7be392d6a83fb16db8d57c948b973c039dc 177 175 2023-07-19T20:56:27Z Shakesc 6 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? Unrelated to tesla? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? ESC(s?)? Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ? {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] c4b202069af92b2e0266323be754261c6da23338 180 177 2023-07-19T21:09:09Z Shakesc 6 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:LEtsGO_BakingTrays.jpg|thumb|left]] Theme is to look like Lego blocks. It uses baking trays sprayed in various bright coloured car paints {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? Single brake disc on the rear axle with a hydraulic braking system using components from an ATV The master brake cylinder is actuated directly from the brake pedal {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LEtsGo_Brakes.jpg|thumb|alt=Brake Disc]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor Uses a single Vevor 2000W motor mounted to allow the chain tension to be adjusted ESC(s?) Whitebox 1500W e-bike controller that may/may not of had the shunt modified to allow more current Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ? {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] d1ceeda1f50585a7ff8af3185847cfb289ca5928 182 180 2023-07-19T21:12:27Z Shakesc 6 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:LEtsGO_BakingTrays.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme is to look like Lego blocks. It uses baking trays sprayed in various bright coloured car paints {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? Single brake disc on the rear axle with a hydraulic braking system using components from an ATV The master brake cylinder is actuated directly from the brake pedal {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LEtsGo_Brakes.jpeg|thumb|alt=Brake Disc]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor Uses a single Vevor 2000W motor mounted to allow the chain tension to be adjusted ESC Whitebox 1500W e-bike controller that may/may not of had the shunt modified to allow more current Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ? {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 9a1e73f4f1fa5762b521b87c627860d8d3a446a6 183 182 2023-07-19T21:13:25Z Shakesc 6 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:LEtsGO_BakingTrays.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme is to look like Lego blocks. It uses baking trays sprayed in various bright coloured car paints {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? Single brake disc on the rear axle with a hydraulic braking system using components from an ATV The master brake cylinder is actuated directly from the brake pedal {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LEtsGO_Brakes.jpeg|thumb|alt=Brake Disc]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor Uses a single Vevor 2000W motor mounted to allow the chain tension to be adjusted ESC Whitebox 1500W e-bike controller that may/may not of had the shunt modified to allow more current Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ? {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] fa3c2bdbb4d5151d1266012fafe0a3dc8eb12af1 184 183 2023-07-19T21:19:05Z Shakesc 6 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:LEtsGO_BakingTrays.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme is to look like Lego blocks. It uses baking trays sprayed in various bright coloured car paints {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Steering is direct in the style of a go-kart Its has a lot of negative camber, probably too much! Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? Majority of components are from mini ATVs There are 2 sizes of wheel/tyre available depending on conditions. 13x5.00-6 145x70-6 How do your brakes work? Single brake disc on the rear axle with a hydraulic braking system using components from an ATV The master brake cylinder is actuated directly from the brake pedal {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LEtsGO_Brakes.jpeg|thumb|alt=Brake Disc]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor Uses a single Vevor 2000W motor mounted to allow the chain tension to be adjusted ESC Whitebox 1500W e-bike controller that may/may not of had the shunt modified to allow more current Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ? {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 2b201d5a1bb385038cd8818f3eefadc9b11271b2 185 184 2023-07-19T21:20:30Z Shakesc 6 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:LEtsGO_BakingTrays.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme is to look like Lego blocks. It uses baking trays sprayed in various bright coloured car paints It takes the 2022 Hacky Racer, Jeepney, and re-themes and improves on that basic design {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Steering is direct in the style of a go-kart Its has a lot of negative camber, probably too much! Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? Majority of components are from mini ATVs There are 2 sizes of wheel/tyre available depending on conditions. 13x5.00-6 145x70-6 How do your brakes work? Single brake disc on the rear axle with a hydraulic braking system using components from an ATV The master brake cylinder is actuated directly from the brake pedal {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LEtsGO_Brakes.jpeg|thumb|alt=Brake Disc]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor Uses a single Vevor 2000W motor mounted to allow the chain tension to be adjusted ESC Whitebox 1500W e-bike controller that may/may not of had the shunt modified to allow more current Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ? {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] c81000138cfabf2c66920ef7c98070d80bd96f99 186 185 2023-07-19T21:21:46Z Shakesc 6 /* Other Features */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:LEtsGO_BakingTrays.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme is to look like Lego blocks. It uses baking trays sprayed in various bright coloured car paints It takes the 2022 Hacky Racer, Jeepney, and re-themes and improves on that basic design {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Steering is direct in the style of a go-kart Its has a lot of negative camber, probably too much! Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? Majority of components are from mini ATVs There are 2 sizes of wheel/tyre available depending on conditions. 13x5.00-6 145x70-6 How do your brakes work? Single brake disc on the rear axle with a hydraulic braking system using components from an ATV The master brake cylinder is actuated directly from the brake pedal {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LEtsGO_Brakes.jpeg|thumb|alt=Brake Disc]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor Uses a single Vevor 2000W motor mounted to allow the chain tension to be adjusted ESC Whitebox 1500W e-bike controller that may/may not of had the shunt modified to allow more current Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Changing the wheel/tyre changes the ratio of the gearing by a few percent which can be handy {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] b43c078c51fa4198ed68c87f2b5fda62cd59728a 187 186 2023-07-19T21:23:23Z Shakesc 6 /* Awards */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:LEtsGO_BakingTrays.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme is to look like Lego blocks. It uses baking trays sprayed in various bright coloured car paints It takes the 2022 Hacky Racer, Jeepney, and re-themes and improves on that basic design {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Steering is direct in the style of a go-kart Its has a lot of negative camber, probably too much! Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? Majority of components are from mini ATVs There are 2 sizes of wheel/tyre available depending on conditions. 13x5.00-6 145x70-6 How do your brakes work? Single brake disc on the rear axle with a hydraulic braking system using components from an ATV The master brake cylinder is actuated directly from the brake pedal {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LEtsGO_Brakes.jpeg|thumb|alt=Brake Disc]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor Uses a single Vevor 2000W motor mounted to allow the chain tension to be adjusted ESC Whitebox 1500W e-bike controller that may/may not of had the shunt modified to allow more current Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Changing the wheel/tyre changes the ratio of the gearing by a few percent which can be handy {{clear}} ==Awards== Fully Charge Live 2023 - forgot my placement Scrumpy cup - overall 1st for racing, overall 1st including moxie {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 8e45db578569890c9e2692f02b86532ff1d7c0f0 188 187 2023-07-19T21:23:36Z Shakesc 6 /* Awards */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:LEtsGO_BakingTrays.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme is to look like Lego blocks. It uses baking trays sprayed in various bright coloured car paints It takes the 2022 Hacky Racer, Jeepney, and re-themes and improves on that basic design {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Steering is direct in the style of a go-kart Its has a lot of negative camber, probably too much! Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? Majority of components are from mini ATVs There are 2 sizes of wheel/tyre available depending on conditions. 13x5.00-6 145x70-6 How do your brakes work? Single brake disc on the rear axle with a hydraulic braking system using components from an ATV The master brake cylinder is actuated directly from the brake pedal {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LEtsGO_Brakes.jpeg|thumb|alt=Brake Disc]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor Uses a single Vevor 2000W motor mounted to allow the chain tension to be adjusted ESC Whitebox 1500W e-bike controller that may/may not of had the shunt modified to allow more current Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Changing the wheel/tyre changes the ratio of the gearing by a few percent which can be handy {{clear}} ==Awards== Fully Charge Live 2023 - forgot my placement Scrumpy cup - overall 1st for racing, overall 1st including moxie {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] e7cbc4b16b7592230afc41d507051507696d5b0e 189 188 2023-07-19T21:24:10Z Shakesc 6 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:LEtsGO_BakingTrays.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme is to look like Lego blocks. It uses baking trays sprayed in various bright coloured car paints It takes the 2022 Hacky Racer, Jeepney, and re-themes and improves on that basic design {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Steering is direct in the style of a go-kart Its has a lot of negative camber, probably too much! Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? Majority of components are from mini ATVs There are 2 sizes of wheel/tyre available depending on conditions. 13x5.00-6 145x70-6 How do your brakes work? Single brake disc on the rear axle with a hydraulic braking system using components from an ATV The master brake cylinder is actuated directly from the brake pedal {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LEtsGO_Brakes.jpeg|thumb|alt=Brake Disc]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor Uses a single Vevor 2000W motor mounted to allow the chain tension to be adjusted ESC Whitebox 1500W e-bike controller that may/may not of had the shunt modified to allow more current Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Changing the wheel/tyre changes the ratio of the gearing by a few percent which can be handy {{clear}} ==Awards== Fully Charge Live 2023 - forgot my placement Scrumpy cup - overall 1st for racing, overall 1st including moxie {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] e0197f02116ee2780ef7da7437e09d823528ec4c 6 58 176 2023-07-19T20:55:23Z Shakesc 6 LEtsGo Hacky Racer wikitext text/x-wiki == Summary == LEtsGo Hacky Racer 2965e388b4f8faf46e275b4359064de4d3f38ffd 6 59 178 2023-07-19T20:58:22Z Shakesc 6 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 60 179 2023-07-19T20:58:49Z Shakesc 6 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 61 181 2023-07-19T21:09:23Z Shakesc 6 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 62 194 2023-08-01T10:58:36Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Event |EventPic=Cambridge23Grid.jpg |Date=29-30th July 2023 |Location=Roger Needham Building, Cambridge |EventType=Robotics & Full Size }} ==Background== The first in our series of robotic Hacky Racers events! We were be racing in three size classes: A4, A2, and Full Size Hacky Racers! We were also running our standard Hacky Races throughout the day too. The schedule for the day was as follows: Saturday Welcome briefing at 10am Tech checks 10-11:50, with qua..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Cambridge23Grid.jpg |Date=29-30th July 2023 |Location=Roger Needham Building, Cambridge |EventType=Robotics & Full Size }} ==Background== The first in our series of robotic Hacky Racers events! We were be racing in three size classes: A4, A2, and Full Size Hacky Racers! We were also running our standard Hacky Races throughout the day too. The schedule for the day was as follows: Saturday Welcome briefing at 10am Tech checks 10-11:50, with qualifying (single-racer timed laps) 11-11:50. Driver and marshall briefing at 11:50, just before the first race Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Outdoor Teardown: 1700 Sunday Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Medal ceremony: 16:45 Event tear down and pack up: 17:00 - 18:30 {{clear}} ==Entrants== ===Robotics=== (TBC) ===Full Size=== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill *[[Mario Hack]] - David {{clear}} ==Results== ===Full Size (piloted)=== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[ACDC]] - Vince |RacingP2=[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill |RacingP3=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris }} ===Robotics=== {{Race results |RacingP1=A |RacingP2=A |RacingP3=A }} ===Moxie=== {{Race results |MoxieP1=Joint [[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil & [[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |MoxieP2=Joint [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris & [[Babe]] - Neil |MoxieP3=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo }} [[File:Cambridge23Pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] e0077dcecda072823fe3c1b39619dfc6e223b955 195 194 2023-08-01T11:04:28Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Cambridge23Grid.jpg |Date=29-30th July 2023 |Location=Roger Needham Building, Cambridge |EventType=Robotics & Full Size }} ==Background== The first in our series of robotic Hacky Racers events! We were be racing in three size classes: A4, A2, and Full Size Hacky Racers! We were also running our standard Hacky Races throughout the day too. The schedule for the day was as follows: Saturday Welcome briefing at 10am Tech checks 10-11:50, with qualifying (single-racer timed laps) 11-11:50. Driver and marshall briefing at 11:50, just before the first race Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Outdoor Teardown: 1700 Sunday Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Medal ceremony: 16:45 Event tear down and pack up: 17:00 - 18:30 {{clear}} ==Entrants== ===Robotics=== (TBC) ===Full Size=== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill *[[Mario Hack]] - David {{clear}} ==Results== ===Full Size (piloted)=== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[ACDC]] - Vince |RacingP2=[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill |RacingP3=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris }} ===Robotics - A4 Autonomous=== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Fish Stick]] - William Woodward & team |RacingP2=- |RacingP3=- }} ===Robotics - A4 Remote=== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil |RacingP2=[[Little Trak]] - Phil |RacingP3=- }} ===Robotics - A2 Autonomous=== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Babe]] - Neil |RacingP2=[[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |RacingP3=- }} ===Robotics - A2 Remote=== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Babe]] - Neil |RacingP2=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo |RacingP3=[[FPV Mazda]] - Mark }} ===Moxie=== {{Race results |MoxieP1=Joint [[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil & [[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |MoxieP2=Joint [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris & [[Babe]] - Neil |MoxieP3=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo }} [[File:Cambridge23Pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 84941c411ca27884f7f6c7e795272112c31cf8b1 6 63 196 2023-08-01T11:06:46Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 64 197 2023-08-01T11:07:02Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 10 65 200 2023-08-01T11:58:22Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "==={{{Type}}}=== # {{{P1}}} # {{{P2}}} # {{{P3}}}" wikitext text/x-wiki ==={{{Type}}}=== # {{{P1}}} # {{{P2}}} # {{{P3}}} 31f437f2e1985eb3277a11f7919ce9dc6a202af0 0 62 201 195 2023-08-01T11:59:00Z Cstubbs 3 /* Results */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Cambridge23Grid.jpg |Date=29-30th July 2023 |Location=Roger Needham Building, Cambridge |EventType=Robotics & Full Size }} ==Background== The first in our series of robotic Hacky Racers events! We were be racing in three size classes: A4, A2, and Full Size Hacky Racers! We were also running our standard Hacky Races throughout the day too. The schedule for the day was as follows: Saturday Welcome briefing at 10am Tech checks 10-11:50, with qualifying (single-racer timed laps) 11-11:50. Driver and marshall briefing at 11:50, just before the first race Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Outdoor Teardown: 1700 Sunday Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Medal ceremony: 16:45 Event tear down and pack up: 17:00 - 18:30 {{clear}} ==Entrants== ===Robotics=== (TBC) ===Full Size=== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill *[[Mario Hack]] - David {{clear}} ==Results== ===Full Size (piloted)=== {{Race results malleable |Type=Full Size (piloted) |P1=[[ACDC]] - Vince |P2=[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill |P3=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris }} ===Robotics - A4 Autonomous=== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Fish Stick]] - William Woodward & team |RacingP2=- |RacingP3=- }} ===Robotics - A4 Remote=== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil |RacingP2=[[Little Trak]] - Phil |RacingP3=- }} ===Robotics - A2 Autonomous=== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Babe]] - Neil |RacingP2=[[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |RacingP3=- }} ===Robotics - A2 Remote=== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Babe]] - Neil |RacingP2=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo |RacingP3=[[FPV Mazda]] - Mark }} ===Moxie=== {{Race results |MoxieP1=Joint [[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil & [[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |MoxieP2=Joint [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris & [[Babe]] - Neil |MoxieP3=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo }} [[File:Cambridge23Pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 6ddcbc1d3058a669dd8dbe85f2570dff8669ed24 202 201 2023-08-01T12:00:43Z Cstubbs 3 /* Results */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Cambridge23Grid.jpg |Date=29-30th July 2023 |Location=Roger Needham Building, Cambridge |EventType=Robotics & Full Size }} ==Background== The first in our series of robotic Hacky Racers events! We were be racing in three size classes: A4, A2, and Full Size Hacky Racers! We were also running our standard Hacky Races throughout the day too. The schedule for the day was as follows: Saturday Welcome briefing at 10am Tech checks 10-11:50, with qualifying (single-racer timed laps) 11-11:50. Driver and marshall briefing at 11:50, just before the first race Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Outdoor Teardown: 1700 Sunday Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Medal ceremony: 16:45 Event tear down and pack up: 17:00 - 18:30 {{clear}} ==Entrants== ===Robotics=== (TBC) ===Full Size=== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill *[[Mario Hack]] - David {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results malleable |Type=Full Size (piloted) |P1=[[ACDC]] - Vince |P2=[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill |P3=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A4 Autonomous |RacingP1=[[Fish Stick]] - William Woodward & team |RacingP2=- |RacingP3=- }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A4 Remote |RacingP1=[[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil |RacingP2=[[Little Trak]] - Phil |RacingP3=- }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A2 Autonomous |RacingP1=[[Babe]] - Neil |RacingP2=[[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |RacingP3=- }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A2 Remote |RacingP1=[[Babe]] - Neil |RacingP2=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo |RacingP3=[[FPV Mazda]] - Mark }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Moxie |MoxieP1=Joint [[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil & [[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |MoxieP2=Joint [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris & [[Babe]] - Neil |MoxieP3=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo }} [[File:Cambridge23Pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 729181f7fc88bf0fa3a5491c5545258b9d45996c 203 202 2023-08-01T12:01:31Z Cstubbs 3 /* Results */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Cambridge23Grid.jpg |Date=29-30th July 2023 |Location=Roger Needham Building, Cambridge |EventType=Robotics & Full Size }} ==Background== The first in our series of robotic Hacky Racers events! We were be racing in three size classes: A4, A2, and Full Size Hacky Racers! We were also running our standard Hacky Races throughout the day too. The schedule for the day was as follows: Saturday Welcome briefing at 10am Tech checks 10-11:50, with qualifying (single-racer timed laps) 11-11:50. Driver and marshall briefing at 11:50, just before the first race Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Outdoor Teardown: 1700 Sunday Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Medal ceremony: 16:45 Event tear down and pack up: 17:00 - 18:30 {{clear}} ==Entrants== ===Robotics=== (TBC) ===Full Size=== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill *[[Mario Hack]] - David {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results malleable |Type=Full Size (piloted) |P1=[[ACDC]] - Vince |P2=[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill |P3=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A4 Autonomous |P1=[[Fish Stick]] - William Woodward & team |P2=- |P3=- }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A4 Remote |P1=[[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil |P2=[[Little Trak]] - Phil |P3=- }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A2 Autonomous |P1=[[Babe]] - Neil |P2=[[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |P3=- }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A2 Remote |P1=[[Babe]] - Neil |P2=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo |P3=[[FPV Mazda]] - Mark }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Moxie |P1=Joint [[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil & [[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |P2=Joint [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris & [[Babe]] - Neil |P3=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo }} [[File:Cambridge23Pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 2816a95395c30de5c035b0c366d0fbedd364443c 205 203 2023-08-04T09:31:26Z Markmellors 1 /* Robotics */ added lsit of competitors wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Cambridge23Grid.jpg |Date=29-30th July 2023 |Location=Roger Needham Building, Cambridge |EventType=Robotics & Full Size }} ==Background== The first in our series of robotic Hacky Racers events! We were be racing in three size classes: A4, A2, and Full Size Hacky Racers! We were also running our standard Hacky Races throughout the day too. The schedule for the day was as follows: Saturday Welcome briefing at 10am Tech checks 10-11:50, with qualifying (single-racer timed laps) 11-11:50. Driver and marshall briefing at 11:50, just before the first race Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Outdoor Teardown: 1700 Sunday Races: 12:00/13:30/15:00/16:30 Medal ceremony: 16:45 Event tear down and pack up: 17:00 - 18:30 {{clear}} ==Entrants== ===Robotics=== A4 Class * Fish Stick (Autonomous) * Little Trak (remote controlled, line of sight) * Hammer Mouse (remote controlled, line of sight) * Chamelion (remote controlled, line of sight) A2 class * Bigger Trak (remote control, FPV) * The Green Menace (remote control, FPV) * FPV Mazda (remote control, FPV) * Chugga Boom (Autonomous and remote controlled, line of sight) * Babe (Autonomous and remote controlled, line of sight) ===Full Size=== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill *[[Mario Hack]] - David {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results malleable |Type=Full Size (piloted) |P1=[[ACDC]] - Vince |P2=[[Death Machine]] - Brian, Tom, Bill |P3=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A4 Autonomous |P1=[[Fish Stick]] - William Woodward & team |P2=- |P3=- }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A4 Remote |P1=[[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil |P2=[[Little Trak]] - Phil |P3=- }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A2 Autonomous |P1=[[Babe]] - Neil |P2=[[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |P3=- }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Robotics - A2 Remote |P1=[[Babe]] - Neil |P2=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo |P3=[[FPV Mazda]] - Mark }} {{Race results malleable |Type=Moxie |P1=Joint [[Hammer Mouse]] - Neil & [[Chugga Boom]] - @PiDrogen |P2=Joint [[CYBR TRK]] - Chris & [[Babe]] - Neil |P3=[[Bigger Trak]] - Leo }} [[File:Cambridge23Pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 3ac05ba66050d3897de3999d759f719bea687b95 0 39 204 174 2023-08-04T09:13:23Z Markmellors 1 /* Used EV */ added details about VW gte packs wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Expect to burn ~6000mAh in a race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. {{clear}} ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL {{clear}} ==Li-Ion== ===DIY pack for [[CYBR TRK]]=== *Cells are reclaimed Samsung 21700 30T from NKON. *Spot welded using an eBay China special PCB and handheld electrodes. **PCB needed some solder reinforcement as pictured where tracks started to cook. **Instructions called for ~80Ah battery. I ended up needing a 100Ah (1000cca) in parallel with slightly crusty 36Ah (330cca) being constantly topped off by a PSU to >14v for decent welds. **Electrodes need to be regularly redressed. Not too blunt, not too pointy. Like a small ball point pen seems to work. **Did try using rewound microwave oven transformer, pulsing a solid state relay. Seemed like not enough current for too much time. Electrodes would melt without welding the nickel at all. *Initially planned to use 0.3mm nickel strip for high current handling but getting pure 0.15mm to weld was tough enough, so that's what I went with. It's in links of 3 parallel rungs which seems to stand up to the task. *BMS - Cheap and supposedly rated for 40A continuous, 70A peak (rules stipulate 30A fuse at 12s). Performance in races is somewhat lacking. Just about keeps up, but runs so hot it melts the battery wrap. **Plan to try 100A DALY unit {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LiIonDIYPack.jpeg|thumb|150px|Pack welded]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMS.jpeg|thumb|150px|BMS fitted - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMSebay.jpeg|thumb|150px|Cheap BMS - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYWelder.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder PCB, Electrodes, Batteries]] | [[File:LiIonDIYProbes.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder electrode dressing]] |} ===DIY pack for [[Rule Zero]]=== *BMS for "big packs": [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001111512716.html 12S/45A version of Aliexpress BMS] *Secondary BMS: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HNF628V/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item Amazon 14s 40A Lithium Battery Protection Board] {{clear}} ==Used EV== ... ===VW GTE packs=== source: https://zoomev.uk/products/vw-1-086kwh-battery-module-12s-48v cad model: https://grabcad.com/library/vw-gte-hybrid-battery-module-1 (step file) To "use" (discharge) them, you just connect your load to the terminals, they're always "on". To (non-balance) charge them, you just give them 50.4V and they accept current. We think the onboard BMS isn't like a standard hobby grade BMS, it won't disconnect the output if the voltage gets too low, the current gets too high or they're about to be overcharged. They may have the code to do that, but need to be connected to a suitable contactor to actually do the switching, there's no compoennts to do load switching on the PCB. There're a couple of ways you can charge them, which is best depends on your skills, budget and what you already have. the traditional way would be to rip out the pcb from the battery, solder in balance leads and use a standard lipo charger (e.g. a hota D6). Its rare to find 12S capable chargers, so you'd have to electrically split it into two packs, and charge as two 6S packs. The alternative route, and the way Brian Corteil and Mark Mellors are going, is to use a 50.4V power supply (e.g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32829834144.html or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004586061770.html ) with an Arduino and a CAN transceiver. Brian has mostly figured it out but it still needs a laptop and a wiring mess to do the balance charging. We're hoping to get a batch of PCBs made at some point and put it all in a box. ===useful links:=== https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms https://secondlifestorage.com/index.php?threads/reverse-engineered-bms-teensy3-2-based-working-with-tesla-module-oem-slaveboard.6248/ https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/jomytec/Teensy-CAN-bus-controller-in-EV https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/2022/03/02/vw-passat-gte-battery-slave-module-connected-to-simpbms/ Brian's balancing code: https://gist.github.com/.../f83ee4708a0838859fcd7e00524226ac ===balance connector:=== TE 1-1670990-1 1355717-1 https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1355717-1/2187722 ==Chargers== *Turnigy Accucel / HTRC C150 - Runs directly from mains, only just charges packs between races at 1hr intervals *HOTA D6 Pro - Pro runs directly from mains, little faster than C150, popular in the pits. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 53e64068e4d88a2594c2c2fad4ea616f2308314d 207 204 2023-08-21T17:18:03Z Cstubbs 3 /* General */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Most people running 2x 6S packs expect to burn 4000-6000mAh per pack in a 5 minute race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. {{clear}} ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL {{clear}} ==Li-Ion== ===DIY pack for [[CYBR TRK]]=== *Cells are reclaimed Samsung 21700 30T from NKON. *Spot welded using an eBay China special PCB and handheld electrodes. **PCB needed some solder reinforcement as pictured where tracks started to cook. **Instructions called for ~80Ah battery. I ended up needing a 100Ah (1000cca) in parallel with slightly crusty 36Ah (330cca) being constantly topped off by a PSU to >14v for decent welds. **Electrodes need to be regularly redressed. Not too blunt, not too pointy. Like a small ball point pen seems to work. **Did try using rewound microwave oven transformer, pulsing a solid state relay. Seemed like not enough current for too much time. Electrodes would melt without welding the nickel at all. *Initially planned to use 0.3mm nickel strip for high current handling but getting pure 0.15mm to weld was tough enough, so that's what I went with. It's in links of 3 parallel rungs which seems to stand up to the task. *BMS - Cheap and supposedly rated for 40A continuous, 70A peak (rules stipulate 30A fuse at 12s). Performance in races is somewhat lacking. Just about keeps up, but runs so hot it melts the battery wrap. **Plan to try 100A DALY unit {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LiIonDIYPack.jpeg|thumb|150px|Pack welded]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMS.jpeg|thumb|150px|BMS fitted - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMSebay.jpeg|thumb|150px|Cheap BMS - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYWelder.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder PCB, Electrodes, Batteries]] | [[File:LiIonDIYProbes.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder electrode dressing]] |} ===DIY pack for [[Rule Zero]]=== *BMS for "big packs": [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001111512716.html 12S/45A version of Aliexpress BMS] *Secondary BMS: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HNF628V/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item Amazon 14s 40A Lithium Battery Protection Board] {{clear}} ==Used EV== ... ===VW GTE packs=== source: https://zoomev.uk/products/vw-1-086kwh-battery-module-12s-48v cad model: https://grabcad.com/library/vw-gte-hybrid-battery-module-1 (step file) To "use" (discharge) them, you just connect your load to the terminals, they're always "on". To (non-balance) charge them, you just give them 50.4V and they accept current. We think the onboard BMS isn't like a standard hobby grade BMS, it won't disconnect the output if the voltage gets too low, the current gets too high or they're about to be overcharged. They may have the code to do that, but need to be connected to a suitable contactor to actually do the switching, there's no compoennts to do load switching on the PCB. There're a couple of ways you can charge them, which is best depends on your skills, budget and what you already have. the traditional way would be to rip out the pcb from the battery, solder in balance leads and use a standard lipo charger (e.g. a hota D6). Its rare to find 12S capable chargers, so you'd have to electrically split it into two packs, and charge as two 6S packs. The alternative route, and the way Brian Corteil and Mark Mellors are going, is to use a 50.4V power supply (e.g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32829834144.html or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004586061770.html ) with an Arduino and a CAN transceiver. Brian has mostly figured it out but it still needs a laptop and a wiring mess to do the balance charging. We're hoping to get a batch of PCBs made at some point and put it all in a box. ===useful links:=== https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms https://secondlifestorage.com/index.php?threads/reverse-engineered-bms-teensy3-2-based-working-with-tesla-module-oem-slaveboard.6248/ https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/jomytec/Teensy-CAN-bus-controller-in-EV https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/2022/03/02/vw-passat-gte-battery-slave-module-connected-to-simpbms/ Brian's balancing code: https://gist.github.com/.../f83ee4708a0838859fcd7e00524226ac ===balance connector:=== TE 1-1670990-1 1355717-1 https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1355717-1/2187722 ==Chargers== *Turnigy Accucel / HTRC C150 - Runs directly from mains, only just charges packs between races at 1hr intervals *HOTA D6 Pro - Pro runs directly from mains, little faster than C150, popular in the pits. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] b039315a6ce7e5831611309622ce983d540c9b0e 208 207 2023-08-21T17:20:38Z Cstubbs 3 /* Li-Ion */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Most people running 2x 6S packs expect to burn 4000-6000mAh per pack in a 5 minute race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. {{clear}} ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL {{clear}} ==Li-Ion== ===DIY pack for [[CYBR TRK]]=== *Cells are reclaimed Samsung 21700 30T from NKON. *Spot welded using an eBay China special PCB and handheld electrodes. **PCB needed some solder reinforcement as pictured where tracks started to cook. **Instructions called for ~80Ah battery. I ended up needing a 100Ah (1000cca) in parallel with slightly crusty 36Ah (330cca) being constantly topped off by a PSU to >14v for decent welds. **Electrodes need to be regularly redressed. Not too blunt, not too pointy. Like a small ball point pen seems to work. **Did try using rewound microwave oven transformer, pulsing a solid state relay. Seemed like not enough current for too much time. Electrodes would melt without welding the nickel at all. *Initially planned to use 0.3mm nickel strip for high current handling but getting pure 0.15mm to weld was tough enough, so that's what I went with. It's in links of 3 parallel rungs which seems to stand up to the task. *BMS - Cheap and supposedly rated for 40A continuous, 70A peak (rules stipulate 30A fuse at 12s). Performance in races was ok, but ran so hot it melted the battery wrap, then later burned out. **Plan to try 100A DALY unit {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LiIonDIYPack.jpeg|thumb|150px|Pack welded]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMS.jpeg|thumb|150px|BMS fitted - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMSebay.jpeg|thumb|150px|Cheap BMS - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYWelder.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder PCB, Electrodes, Batteries]] | [[File:LiIonDIYProbes.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder electrode dressing]] |} ===DIY pack for [[Rule Zero]]=== *BMS for "big packs": [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001111512716.html 12S/45A version of Aliexpress BMS] *Secondary BMS: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HNF628V/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item Amazon 14s 40A Lithium Battery Protection Board] {{clear}} ==Used EV== ... ===VW GTE packs=== source: https://zoomev.uk/products/vw-1-086kwh-battery-module-12s-48v cad model: https://grabcad.com/library/vw-gte-hybrid-battery-module-1 (step file) To "use" (discharge) them, you just connect your load to the terminals, they're always "on". To (non-balance) charge them, you just give them 50.4V and they accept current. We think the onboard BMS isn't like a standard hobby grade BMS, it won't disconnect the output if the voltage gets too low, the current gets too high or they're about to be overcharged. They may have the code to do that, but need to be connected to a suitable contactor to actually do the switching, there's no compoennts to do load switching on the PCB. There're a couple of ways you can charge them, which is best depends on your skills, budget and what you already have. the traditional way would be to rip out the pcb from the battery, solder in balance leads and use a standard lipo charger (e.g. a hota D6). Its rare to find 12S capable chargers, so you'd have to electrically split it into two packs, and charge as two 6S packs. The alternative route, and the way Brian Corteil and Mark Mellors are going, is to use a 50.4V power supply (e.g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32829834144.html or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004586061770.html ) with an Arduino and a CAN transceiver. Brian has mostly figured it out but it still needs a laptop and a wiring mess to do the balance charging. We're hoping to get a batch of PCBs made at some point and put it all in a box. ===useful links:=== https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms https://secondlifestorage.com/index.php?threads/reverse-engineered-bms-teensy3-2-based-working-with-tesla-module-oem-slaveboard.6248/ https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/jomytec/Teensy-CAN-bus-controller-in-EV https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/2022/03/02/vw-passat-gte-battery-slave-module-connected-to-simpbms/ Brian's balancing code: https://gist.github.com/.../f83ee4708a0838859fcd7e00524226ac ===balance connector:=== TE 1-1670990-1 1355717-1 https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1355717-1/2187722 ==Chargers== *Turnigy Accucel / HTRC C150 - Runs directly from mains, only just charges packs between races at 1hr intervals *HOTA D6 Pro - Pro runs directly from mains, little faster than C150, popular in the pits. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] b8f8e6e70621bfa3bb6f6071655dc3f02f6f8c01 233 208 2023-10-05T15:15:47Z Markmellors 1 updated link to Brian's balance code wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Most people running 2x 6S packs expect to burn 4000-6000mAh per pack in a 5 minute race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. {{clear}} ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL {{clear}} ==Li-Ion== ===DIY pack for [[CYBR TRK]]=== *Cells are reclaimed Samsung 21700 30T from NKON. *Spot welded using an eBay China special PCB and handheld electrodes. **PCB needed some solder reinforcement as pictured where tracks started to cook. **Instructions called for ~80Ah battery. I ended up needing a 100Ah (1000cca) in parallel with slightly crusty 36Ah (330cca) being constantly topped off by a PSU to >14v for decent welds. **Electrodes need to be regularly redressed. Not too blunt, not too pointy. Like a small ball point pen seems to work. **Did try using rewound microwave oven transformer, pulsing a solid state relay. Seemed like not enough current for too much time. Electrodes would melt without welding the nickel at all. *Initially planned to use 0.3mm nickel strip for high current handling but getting pure 0.15mm to weld was tough enough, so that's what I went with. It's in links of 3 parallel rungs which seems to stand up to the task. *BMS - Cheap and supposedly rated for 40A continuous, 70A peak (rules stipulate 30A fuse at 12s). Performance in races was ok, but ran so hot it melted the battery wrap, then later burned out. **Plan to try 100A DALY unit {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LiIonDIYPack.jpeg|thumb|150px|Pack welded]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMS.jpeg|thumb|150px|BMS fitted - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMSebay.jpeg|thumb|150px|Cheap BMS - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYWelder.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder PCB, Electrodes, Batteries]] | [[File:LiIonDIYProbes.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder electrode dressing]] |} ===DIY pack for [[Rule Zero]]=== *BMS for "big packs": [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001111512716.html 12S/45A version of Aliexpress BMS] *Secondary BMS: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HNF628V/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item Amazon 14s 40A Lithium Battery Protection Board] {{clear}} ==Used EV== ... ===VW GTE packs=== source: https://zoomev.uk/products/vw-1-086kwh-battery-module-12s-48v cad model: https://grabcad.com/library/vw-gte-hybrid-battery-module-1 (step file) To "use" (discharge) them, you just connect your load to the terminals, they're always "on". To (non-balance) charge them, you just give them 50.4V and they accept current. We think the onboard BMS isn't like a standard hobby grade BMS, it won't disconnect the output if the voltage gets too low, the current gets too high or they're about to be overcharged. They may have the code to do that, but need to be connected to a suitable contactor to actually do the switching, there's no compoennts to do load switching on the PCB. There're a couple of ways you can charge them, which is best depends on your skills, budget and what you already have. the traditional way would be to rip out the pcb from the battery, solder in balance leads and use a standard lipo charger (e.g. a hota D6). Its rare to find 12S capable chargers, so you'd have to electrically split it into two packs, and charge as two 6S packs. The alternative route, and the way Brian Corteil and Mark Mellors are going, is to use a 50.4V power supply (e.g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32829834144.html or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004586061770.html ) with an Arduino and a CAN transceiver. Brian has mostly figured it out but it still needs a laptop and a wiring mess to do the balance charging. We're hoping to get a batch of PCBs made at some point and put it all in a box. ===useful links:=== https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms https://secondlifestorage.com/index.php?threads/reverse-engineered-bms-teensy3-2-based-working-with-tesla-module-oem-slaveboard.6248/ https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/jomytec/Teensy-CAN-bus-controller-in-EV https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/2022/03/02/vw-passat-gte-battery-slave-module-connected-to-simpbms/ Brian's balancing code: https://gist.github.com/Corteil/f83ee4708a0838859fcd7e00524226ac ===balance connector:=== TE 1-1670990-1 1355717-1 https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1355717-1/2187722 ==Chargers== *Turnigy Accucel / HTRC C150 - Runs directly from mains, only just charges packs between races at 1hr intervals *HOTA D6 Pro - Pro runs directly from mains, little faster than C150, popular in the pits. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] dbb45377689996af35c1376438e949c201efc373 0 66 206 2023-08-05T18:40:04Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Event |EventPic=FCL23Grid.jpg |Date=28-30th Apr 2023 |Location=Farnborough International |EventType=Race }} ==Background== Fully Charged. It's the World's No.1 Electric Vehicle & Home Energy Show. Hacky Racers set up a small track in the outdoor grass area and raced on the hour, every hour(ish)! {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CyberQuad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *Big Tik..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=FCL23Grid.jpg |Date=28-30th Apr 2023 |Location=Farnborough International |EventType=Race }} ==Background== Fully Charged. It's the World's No.1 Electric Vehicle & Home Energy Show. Hacky Racers set up a small track in the outdoor grass area and raced on the hour, every hour(ish)! {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CyberQuad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[Lorax]] - David {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=? |RacingP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |RacingP3=? |MoxieP1=? |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=? |OverallP1=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |OverallP2=B |OverallP3=C }} [[File:FCL23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 06d60800b08e4095bfeb7a08b845576cd9430f61 0 43 209 145 2023-08-21T20:17:17Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Kill Switch== Each car must have a kill switch or removable link that stops all current flow from the battery or all batteries to the motor(s). The operation of the kill switch should be obvious and it must be accessible so it can be used by marshals in an emergency. ===Removable Links=== An appropriately rated battery connector can be fitted with a wire link, which stops current flowing out of the battery when disconnected ===Isolators=== Battery isolator switches for cars, caravans and boats are usually rated to switch reasonable DC currents. They may often not be rated to the full battery voltage used by Hacky Racers, but are still quite a good choice. Simple models featuring a quarter turn removable key work okay, but it is possible to accidently turn off the key by knocking the switch. US teams also note that these are particularly prone to contacts welding. [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Techniks-BS01-Battery-Isolator-Switch/dp/B009CRM34I/ Tecniks BS01 100 Amps Battery Isolator Cutoff Switch] Other models are available which are high current battery isolators, but are actuated by twist-on, push-off. [https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221307411539 Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch Twist On / Push Off - Emergency Stop 250A] Depending on your controller, large inrush currents may cause pitting and welding of the contacts. If your controller does not feature a soft start, this can be implemented using another switch and a resistor. Standard e-stop style buttons are often not rated to break large amounts of DC current, and are not ideal. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BatteryIsolatorKey.jpg|thumb|150px|Key actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:BatteryIsolatorPush.jpg|thumb|150px|Push/twist actuated battery isolator]] | [[File:Estop.jpg|thumb|150px|E Stop button - not ideal]] |} {{clear}} ==Battery Connector== *XT90 *Anderson forklift connector (50/175A) *XT60 (low current rating - not ideal) *4mm HXT - only designed for 12AWG wire, which is a little small. {{clear}} ----- ==Cable== Silicone insulated copper wire with a high strand count is commonly available for RC/drone use and is a good choice for hacky racer builds due to its flexibility and high current rating. 12AWG (4mm2) is typically suitable for short runs and is the maximum size which can practically be used with some connectors. Races are usually short in duration, and cables are well ventilated. For significantly longer runs, 10AWG (6mm2) may be a better choice. Normal household copper wire can also be used, although usually has fewer, thicker strands and will be less flexible. Tri-rated equipment wire is a happy medium. Aluminium and copper clad aluminium are sometimes found in cheap audio cables with a higher resistance, so should be avoided. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] cf7b0d39d455c3e03bff664cbd8f6ad697ad678c 0 30 210 193 2023-08-21T20:33:08Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hoverboards */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 7c12eae043881de5158798a5bb03eeb036f2a2b1 228 210 2023-08-23T22:14:00Z Markmellors 1 /* Vevor Motors */ added some advice on figuring out the connections wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor and similar 1500-200w large inrunner Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". this might help with figuring out the connections: https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373 The connections you absolutely need to get them driving are: * power in: two thick wires, probably red and black * throttle: three thin wires, ground (may be black), 5V (may be red) and signal * power to motor: three thick wires, probably yellow, green and blue * motor hall sensor signal connector: five thin wires, probably red, black, yellow, blue, green * reverse: two thin wires, best to match the connector type from the link above That may be all you need to get it running. Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 747a8e098469f9aec1d5b7bb9ded78ccaf9697e5 229 228 2023-08-23T22:19:49Z Markmellors 1 /* Vevor and similar 1500-200w large inrunner Motors */ added a bit of detail on reversing vevor motor directions wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". this might help with figuring out the connections: https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373 The connections you absolutely need to get them driving are: * power in: two thick wires, probably red and black * throttle: three thin wires, ground (may be black), 5V (may be red) and signal * power to motor: three thick wires, probably yellow, green and blue * motor hall sensor signal connector: five thin wires, probably red, black, yellow, blue, green * reverse: two thin wires, best to match the connector type from the link above That may be all you need to get it running. Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. For reversing the vevor motors, Dave found swapping the blue/green phase wires and also swapping the blue/yellow hall wires does the trick. Ian found swapping the blue/yellow phase wires and also swapping the green/yellow hall wires worked for him. The Vevor controllers are more picky about the hall/phase pairings than other controllers. There's likely another pair combination that will work. {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] b3b6497faf7b27a32e4312fcb1c49fff2a1ea8bd 230 229 2023-08-25T11:33:14Z Markmellors 1 add Rob's advice wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". this might help with figuring out the connections: https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373 The connections you absolutely need to get them driving are: * power in: two thick wires, probably red and black * throttle: three thin wires, ground (may be black), 5V (may be red) and signal * power to motor: three thick wires, probably yellow, green and blue * motor hall sensor signal connector: five thin wires, probably red, black, yellow, blue, green * reverse: two thin wires, best to match the connector type from the link above That may be all you need to get it running. Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. For reversing the vevor motors, Dave found swapping the blue/green phase wires and also swapping the blue/yellow hall wires does the trick. Ian found swapping the blue/yellow phase wires and also swapping the green/yellow hall wires worked for him. The Vevor controllers are more picky about the hall/phase pairings than other controllers. There's likely another pair combination that will work. some advice from Rob Orwin: The "electric lock line" usually needs to be connected to positive in order for the controller to allow the throttle to work and power the motor. Just for fun, sometimes these need to be connected to negative but it's the vast minority. The self learning wires when touched together, reverse the direction of the motor, meaning you don't need to mess around with Phase wires. The Low brake wires are for brake activated motor cut offs. The high brake wires are to power a brake light. The "three speed" connection you just need to bridge to earth whichever makes the motor turn the fastest. That's about it, generally. You can usually tape off the brake wires and permanently connect the electric lock line and just have a switch on the power supply. You can also buy brushless motor and controller testers for a tenner or so, that'll help you figure out what is doing what, without the risk of blowing anything up. {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 358718cadb41873979c3d847525ac22bf1dee278 232 230 2023-08-25T11:34:31Z Markmellors 1 added an image of the connectors wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". this might help with figuring out the connections: https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373 The connections you absolutely need to get them driving are: * power in: two thick wires, probably red and black * throttle: three thin wires, ground (may be black), 5V (may be red) and signal * power to motor: three thick wires, probably yellow, green and blue * motor hall sensor signal connector: five thin wires, probably red, black, yellow, blue, green * reverse: two thin wires, best to match the connector type from the link above That may be all you need to get it running. Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. For reversing the vevor motors, Dave found swapping the blue/green phase wires and also swapping the blue/yellow hall wires does the trick. Ian found swapping the blue/yellow phase wires and also swapping the green/yellow hall wires worked for him. The Vevor controllers are more picky about the hall/phase pairings than other controllers. There's likely another pair combination that will work. some advice from Rob Orwin: The "electric lock line" usually needs to be connected to positive in order for the controller to allow the throttle to work and power the motor. Just for fun, sometimes these need to be connected to negative but it's the vast minority. The self learning wires when touched together, reverse the direction of the motor, meaning you don't need to mess around with Phase wires. The Low brake wires are for brake activated motor cut offs. The high brake wires are to power a brake light. The "three speed" connection you just need to bridge to earth whichever makes the motor turn the fastest. That's about it, generally. You can usually tape off the brake wires and permanently connect the electric lock line and just have a switch on the power supply. You can also buy brushless motor and controller testers for a tenner or so, that'll help you figure out what is doing what, without the risk of blowing anything up. [[File:Ebike_esc_connectors.jpg]] {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 26dfb64ed49b44e3d11e17f6df6e509495cfaf30 0 67 211 2023-08-21T20:33:12Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "== Go-Kart Wheels & Tyres == ===Split=== See [[Rule Zero]] *Twin tubes, side by side, with a valve on the inside and outside of the wheel. *Slightly easier to replace tyres/tubes in the pits as bead does not need to seal. *Custom machined hubs. *Part-worn tyres can be occasionally found for a reasonable price. *Slicks are fun. ===Unsplit=== See [[Pink My Ride]] *Tubeless. *Can be difficult to replace tyres in the pits, special tools and a high flow compressor help. {{c..." wikitext text/x-wiki == Go-Kart Wheels & Tyres == ===Split=== See [[Rule Zero]] *Twin tubes, side by side, with a valve on the inside and outside of the wheel. *Slightly easier to replace tyres/tubes in the pits as bead does not need to seal. *Custom machined hubs. *Part-worn tyres can be occasionally found for a reasonable price. *Slicks are fun. ===Unsplit=== See [[Pink My Ride]] *Tubeless. *Can be difficult to replace tyres in the pits, special tools and a high flow compressor help. {{clear}} == Mobility Scooters == A mobility scooter frame with steering, wheels and an axle can make a solid foundation for a beginner hacky racer. Their tyres however will wear out quickly, especially on tarmac. Typically use inner tubes. Readily available spares. {{clear}} == Mini ATVs == See [[LEtsGO]] {{clear}} == Hoverboard Hub Motors == [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] See [[CYBR TRK]] Hoverboard wheels differ from most other types of hacky racer wheel, as the motor is built in to the centre. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 988f40c4a12373afd4acb6a6b615ce941aff9abf 215 211 2023-08-21T20:51:46Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hoverboard Hub Motors */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Go-Kart Wheels & Tyres == ===Split=== See [[Rule Zero]] *Twin tubes, side by side, with a valve on the inside and outside of the wheel. *Slightly easier to replace tyres/tubes in the pits as bead does not need to seal. *Custom machined hubs. *Part-worn tyres can be occasionally found for a reasonable price. *Slicks are fun. ===Unsplit=== See [[Pink My Ride]] *Tubeless. *Can be difficult to replace tyres in the pits, special tools and a high flow compressor help. {{clear}} == Mobility Scooters == A mobility scooter frame with steering, wheels and an axle can make a solid foundation for a beginner hacky racer. Their tyres however will wear out quickly, especially on tarmac. Typically use inner tubes. Readily available spares. {{clear}} == Mini ATVs == See [[LEtsGO]] {{clear}} == Hoverboard Hub Motors == See [[CYBR TRK]] Hoverboard wheels differ from most other types of hacky racer wheel, as the motor is built in to the centre. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 mobility scooter tyres are about the only size which can be made to fit. 8 1/2 x 2 look close, but do not fit. *Turning down the OD of the hub slightly and improving the surface finish makes fitting easier, but will weaken wheel. *Cut a pocket for the valve to exit (or punch a hole in the sidewall of the tyre). *Using washing up liquid as lube, with the tube inside the tyre and valve facing towards you, hook the bead just over the back edge of the rim. Work the bead around the outside of the tyre towards the front. Not too far at this stage. Hook the valve through the bead at the front, and push down, so it slips over the OD of the hub and into the previously cut pocket. Work the rest of the bead and other side of the tyre around the hub. Reinstall the stator and cover plate. Inflate to ~15PSI. ~25PSI leads to catastrophic failure. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:HoverboardValveNotch.jpeg|thumb|150px|Machined notch for valve (ignore crack!)]] | [[File:HoverboardLathe.jpg|thumb|150px|Cleaning up OD of hub]] | [[File:HoverboardTyreFitted.jpg|thumb|150px|Tyre fitted]] |} {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] fe00585051851fbfb93724f6c8d54517033cca1f 216 215 2023-08-21T20:52:06Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hoverboard Hub Motors */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Go-Kart Wheels & Tyres == ===Split=== See [[Rule Zero]] *Twin tubes, side by side, with a valve on the inside and outside of the wheel. *Slightly easier to replace tyres/tubes in the pits as bead does not need to seal. *Custom machined hubs. *Part-worn tyres can be occasionally found for a reasonable price. *Slicks are fun. ===Unsplit=== See [[Pink My Ride]] *Tubeless. *Can be difficult to replace tyres in the pits, special tools and a high flow compressor help. {{clear}} == Mobility Scooters == A mobility scooter frame with steering, wheels and an axle can make a solid foundation for a beginner hacky racer. Their tyres however will wear out quickly, especially on tarmac. Typically use inner tubes. Readily available spares. {{clear}} == Mini ATVs == See [[LEtsGO]] {{clear}} == Hoverboard Hub Motors == See [[CYBR TRK]] Hoverboard wheels differ from most other types of hacky racer wheel, as the motor is built in to the centre. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 mobility scooter tyres are about the only size which can be made to fit. 8 1/2 x 2 look close, but do not fit. *Turning down the OD of the hub slightly and improving the surface finish makes fitting easier, but will weaken wheel. *Cut a pocket for the valve to exit (or punch a hole in the sidewall of the tyre). *Using washing up liquid as lube, with the tube inside the tyre and valve facing towards you, hook the bead just over the back edge of the rim. *Work the bead around the outside of the tyre towards the front. Not too far at this stage. *Hook the valve through the bead at the front, and push down, so it slips over the OD of the hub and into the previously cut pocket. *Work the rest of the bead and other side of the tyre around the hub. *Reinstall the stator and cover plate. *Inflate to ~15PSI. ~25PSI leads to catastrophic failure. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:HoverboardValveNotch.jpeg|thumb|150px|Machined notch for valve (ignore crack!)]] | [[File:HoverboardLathe.jpg|thumb|150px|Cleaning up OD of hub]] | [[File:HoverboardTyreFitted.jpg|thumb|150px|Tyre fitted]] |} {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] aa2e1834c8322afc30313e77b7d4ef4299d4482c 217 216 2023-08-21T20:53:03Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hoverboard Hub Motors */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Go-Kart Wheels & Tyres == ===Split=== See [[Rule Zero]] *Twin tubes, side by side, with a valve on the inside and outside of the wheel. *Slightly easier to replace tyres/tubes in the pits as bead does not need to seal. *Custom machined hubs. *Part-worn tyres can be occasionally found for a reasonable price. *Slicks are fun. ===Unsplit=== See [[Pink My Ride]] *Tubeless. *Can be difficult to replace tyres in the pits, special tools and a high flow compressor help. {{clear}} == Mobility Scooters == A mobility scooter frame with steering, wheels and an axle can make a solid foundation for a beginner hacky racer. Their tyres however will wear out quickly, especially on tarmac. Typically use inner tubes. Readily available spares. {{clear}} == Mini ATVs == See [[LEtsGO]] {{clear}} == Hoverboard Hub Motors == See [[CYBR TRK]] Hoverboard wheels differ from most other types of hacky racer wheel, as the motor is built in to the centre. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 mobility scooter tyres are about the only size which can be made to fit. 8 1/2 x 2 look close, but do not fit. *Turning down the OD of the hub slightly and improving the surface finish makes fitting easier, but will weaken wheel. *Cut a notch/pocket for the valve to exit (or punch a hole in the sidewall of the tyre). *Using washing up liquid as lube, with the tube inside the tyre and valve facing towards you, hook the bead just over the back edge of the rim. *Work the bead around the outside of the tyre towards the front. Not too far at this stage. *Hook the valve through the bead at the front, and push down, so it slips over the OD of the hub and into the previously cut notch/pocket. *Work the rest of the bead and other side of the tyre around the hub. *Reinstall the stator and cover plate. *Inflate to ~15PSI. ~25PSI leads to catastrophic failure. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:HoverboardValveNotch.jpeg|thumb|150px|Machined notch for valve (ignore crack!)]] | [[File:HoverboardLathe.jpg|thumb|150px|Cleaning up OD of hub]] | [[File:HoverboardTyreFitted.jpg|thumb|150px|Tyre fitted]] |} {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] cd429ad0fd34c75d8d884dc8546a64f9b2fe7da6 6 68 212 2023-08-21T20:40:40Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 69 213 2023-08-21T20:42:40Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 70 214 2023-08-21T20:43:07Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 1 218 161 2023-08-21T20:54:36Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Brakes *Gears & Chains *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 50529a042c7aaac775d2c21b5f8093055bf67e22 219 218 2023-08-21T20:54:47Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Gears & Chains *Chassis & Body == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 0ce3b838b02b2c4d005a31194207d79b170b3ab1 225 219 2023-08-21T21:18:53Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://www.hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Gears & Chains == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 9575342a4a5a3e8c674df9eeebf2926960640961 238 225 2024-05-14T15:19:59Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Gears & Chains == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our regular racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 78aab29d6318144212e796461880a637c7475dec 245 238 2024-05-22T08:15:20Z Markmellors 1 /* Racer Profiles */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Gears & Chains == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> a6a21b070f045ab246847ed0a72b5a4490fd47b1 6 71 220 2023-08-21T21:08:16Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 221 220 2023-08-21T21:13:55Z Cstubbs 3 Cstubbs uploaded a new version of [[File:CybrTrkBodyFrame.jpg]] wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 72 222 2023-08-21T21:14:18Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 73 223 2023-08-21T21:14:30Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 74 224 2023-08-21T21:15:37Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "Each car should have a theme that’s whacky and entertaining. The crazier the better! You score points for entertainment value as well as speed, so go all out and come up with something completely mad. Bodywork is highly recommended, but not mandatory as long as the car has a strong theme and meets the rules. ==Chassis== ===Wood=== The chassis for [[CYBR TRK]] was constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever pos..." wikitext text/x-wiki Each car should have a theme that’s whacky and entertaining. The crazier the better! You score points for entertainment value as well as speed, so go all out and come up with something completely mad. Bodywork is highly recommended, but not mandatory as long as the car has a strong theme and meets the rules. ==Chassis== ===Wood=== The chassis for [[CYBR TRK]] was constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] |} {{clear}} ==Body== ===Wood=== The body for [[CYBR TRK]] is constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. It was designed in CAD, cut with a mitre saw and table saw then assembled with glue, nailgun and screws. Panels were cut using a circular saw and jigsaw from a plotted template, and attached using with glue, nailgun and screws. Some nails have started to back out after a season of racing, which is not ideal from a puncture point of view. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:CybrTrkBodyFrame.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body frame]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Beginning panelling]] | [[File:CybrtrkUnpainted.jpg|thumb|alt=Panelled before paint]] | [[File:CybrktrkPainted.jpg|thumb|alt=Beginning painting]] |} {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 0d094254ed6e86b6a57eb865c13e68aec424b9c9 227 224 2023-08-21T21:26:38Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Each car should have a theme that’s whacky and entertaining. The crazier the better! You score points for entertainment value as well as speed, so go all out and come up with something completely mad. Bodywork is highly recommended, but not mandatory as long as the car has a strong theme and meets the rules. ==Chassis== ===Wood=== The chassis for [[CYBR TRK]] was constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] |} {{clear}} ===Aluminium / Bolted (no welder)=== The chassis for [[CYBR TRK]] was later upgraded to an aluminium box section construction, made from scrap parts of a shelving unit. Given the additional weight of all the bolts required, it didn't end up noticeably lighter! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:CybrTrkAluChassis.jpg|thumb|alt=Aluminium chassis]] |} {{clear}} ===Steel / Welded=== This is the conventional approach taken for most builds. It can be strong, simple, and still fairly lightweight. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Welded steel chassis]] |} {{clear}} ==Body== ===Wood=== The body for [[CYBR TRK]] is constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. It was designed in CAD, cut with a mitre saw and table saw then assembled with glue, nailgun and screws. Panels were cut using a circular saw and jigsaw from a plotted template, and attached using with glue, nailgun and screws. Some nails have started to back out after a season of racing, which is not ideal from a puncture point of view. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:CybrTrkBodyFrame.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body frame]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Beginning panelling]] | [[File:CybrtrkUnpainted.jpg|thumb|alt=Panelled before paint]] | [[File:CybrktrkPainted.jpg|thumb|alt=Beginning painting]] |} {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] b7f96b3d78a52ad829f9dbb896fde5584e928902 235 227 2023-10-23T17:31:02Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki Each car should have a theme that’s whacky and entertaining. The crazier the better! You score points for entertainment value as well as speed, so go all out and come up with something completely mad. Bodywork is highly recommended, but not mandatory as long as the car has a strong theme and meets the rules. ==Chassis== ===Wood=== The chassis for [[CYBR TRK]] was constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] |} {{clear}} ===Aluminium / Bolted (no welder)=== The chassis for [[CYBR TRK]] was later upgraded to an aluminium box section construction, made from scrap parts of a shelving unit. Given the additional weight of all the bolts required, it didn't end up noticeably lighter! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:CybrTrkAluChassis.jpg|thumb|alt=Aluminium chassis]] |} {{clear}} ===Steel / Welded=== This is the conventional approach taken for most builds. It can be strong, simple, and still fairly lightweight. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Welded steel chassis]] |} {{clear}} ==Body== ===Wood=== The body for [[CYBR TRK]] is constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. It was designed in CAD, cut with a mitre saw and table saw then assembled with glue, nailgun and screws. Panels were cut using a circular saw and jigsaw from a plotted template, and attached using with glue, nailgun and screws. Some nails have started to back out after a season of racing, which is not ideal from a puncture point of view. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:CybrTrkBodyFrame.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body frame]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Beginning panelling]] | [[File:CybrtrkUnpainted.jpg|thumb|alt=Panelled before paint]] | [[File:CybrktrkPainted.jpg|thumb|alt=Beginning painting]] |} {{clear}} ==Bumpers== [[File:Bumper rules.png|thumb|right]] The rules state: "Each bumper must cover at least 75mm of height within the vertical space of 100-150mm from the ground" {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 0b2709ab1b5939767ed99cb1498146a9d32f5b2a 6 75 226 2023-08-21T21:24:26Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 76 231 2023-08-25T11:34:02Z Markmellors 1 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 77 234 2023-10-23T17:30:11Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 78 236 2024-04-26T09:07:31Z Markmellors 1 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 19 237 170 2024-04-26T09:08:08Z Markmellors 1 added a pic of us racing wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy23Grid.jpg |Date=7-9th July 2023 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Born 2B Mild]] - Tim *[[DB7]] - Ross *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CyberQuad]] - Alex *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Ford KAsket]] - Ian *[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[One with two motors?]] - Harrison? Arron? Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[Luxury Festival Transport]] - Russell {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[LEtsGO]] - Chris |RacingP2=[[RearRANGEd Rover]] - Jan |RacingP3=[[CyberQuad]] - Alex |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[Rule Zero]] - Mark |OverallP1=[[LEtsGO]] - Chris |OverallP2=B |OverallP3=C }} [[File:scrumpy23pano.jpeg|1000px|center]] [[File:ScrumpyCupRacing.jpg|1000px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] e00b7c744ce28e9a4972feec28117d468d20804b 0 2 239 109 2024-05-16T08:43:59Z Cstubbs 3 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>oSSG0ZJpOvY</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Tyres | £103.25 | £371.15 |- | Wood for frame/body | £40.00 | |- | Control PCB | £32.00 | |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Chassis alu | £20.00 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Light bar | £12.45 | |- | Paint | £10.00 | |- | Bumper steel | £10.00 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Chair | £8.00 | |- | Pedals | £7.86 | |- | LED strip | £5.60 | |- | Steering Wheel | £5.00 | |- | 12V reg | £4.89 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Bumpers | Excluded | |- | Batteries | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 8220758e346b0d477e5a2fdbfda807099ac2f40c 0 79 240 2024-05-22T08:03:22Z Tim Neobard 9 Created page with "==Background== East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a sin..." wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh Nick Reynolds Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful) ==BOM== 802f2f7d89ce0d392e1109d74e12a7ec5934f3ff 241 240 2024-05-22T08:05:36Z Tim Neobard 9 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh Nick Reynolds Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful) ==BOM== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} c9bd93d0554918117dc66c7eb4f19ad305708577 242 241 2024-05-22T08:06:39Z Tim Neobard 9 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh Nick Reynolds Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful) ==BOM== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Non costed ! ! ! ! ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} 84ffe2177f13533d98e0c0f06ebcf4c86a044437 243 242 2024-05-22T08:08:20Z Tim Neobard 9 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh Nick Reynolds Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful) ==BOM== ===Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} ===Non Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} b832f4af41dba9e48ff167a3e55898cc866383a0 244 243 2024-05-22T08:08:48Z Tim Neobard 9 /* Build Team */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh</br> Nick Reynolds</br> Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful)</br> ==BOM== ===Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} ===Non Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} 7f8946e559856600331e758dbe0a4e0fdf72d060 247 244 2024-05-22T08:27:21Z Tim Neobard 9 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== [[File:Velociracer-original.jpg|thumb|left]] East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh</br> Nick Reynolds</br> Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful)</br> ==BOM== ===Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} ===Non Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} fe783ece5c9c0af647c4e274eb5ee5249aa5c1fd 249 247 2024-05-22T08:30:13Z Tim Neobard 9 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== [[File:Velociracer-original.jpg|thumb|Right]] [[File:Velociracer.png|thumb|Right]] East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh</br> Nick Reynolds</br> Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful)</br> ==BOM== ===Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} ===Non Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} f2168ef5d41aec4f9a1fca645777349cc4c1d2c6 250 249 2024-05-22T08:30:39Z Tim Neobard 9 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== [[File:Velociracer-original.jpg|thumb|right]] [[File:Velociracer.png|thumb|right]] East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh</br> Nick Reynolds</br> Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful)</br> ==BOM== ===Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} ===Non Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} 9871c0ceb850cb757400dbe8b570a9e64188f39c 6 80 246 2024-05-22T08:24:23Z Tim Neobard 9 The original green velociracer body wikitext text/x-wiki == Summary == The original green velociracer body f07c1649d17d1f04f6e1de8d8a57cea132835d22 6 81 248 2024-05-22T08:29:47Z Tim Neobard 9 Completed racer wikitext text/x-wiki == Summary == Completed racer f38997c3b6cc52e235e0c2a782d3ce7481d4f050 0 79 251 250 2024-05-22T08:32:34Z Tim Neobard 9 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== [[File:Velociracer-original.jpg|thumb|right]] [[File:Velociracer.png|thumb|right]] East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh</br> Nick Reynolds</br> Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful)</br> ==Build Log== A comprehensive build log can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1RXnXOvgjxtOjpiluZcgzOdxUQpuNqMQJkTBpVb2HkW0/edit?usp=sharing ==BOM== ===Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} ===Non Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} 9fe137e98de39014bd00b2e6b30fb3758e06d6d9 252 251 2024-05-22T08:34:39Z Tim Neobard 9 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== [[File:Velociracer-original.jpg|thumb|right|pre modifications]] [[File:Velociracer.png|thumb|right|]] East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh</br> Nick Reynolds</br> Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful)</br> ==Build Log== A comprehensive build log can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1RXnXOvgjxtOjpiluZcgzOdxUQpuNqMQJkTBpVb2HkW0/edit?usp=sharing ==BOM== ===Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} ===Non Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} 55f64ec440fe1491af0ae3e9708a3799ebfda99e 253 252 2024-05-22T08:36:54Z Tim Neobard 9 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Background== [[File:Velociracer-original.jpg|thumb|right|pre modifications]] [[File:Velociracer.png|thumb|right|]] East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh</br> Nick Reynolds</br> Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful)</br> ==Build Log== A comprehensive build log can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1RXnXOvgjxtOjpiluZcgzOdxUQpuNqMQJkTBpVb2HkW0/edit?usp=sharing ==BOM== ===Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} ===Non Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} [[Category:Racers]] 7b18bbe18b6cc86fd4883533138fb49ebe430259 254 253 2024-05-22T08:39:49Z Tim Neobard 9 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Velociracer.png |BuiltBy=East Essex Hackspace |Theme=Jeep 18 - Jurrasic Park |FirstRace=EMF2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 1800W |ESC= Stock Vevor controller |Battery=13S 600Ah custom built LiFePO4 |Gearbox=No Geabox |Contact=EEH }} ==Background== [[File:Velociracer-original.jpg|thumb|right|pre modifications]] [[File:Velociracer.png|thumb|right|]] East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh</br> Nick Reynolds</br> Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful)</br> ==Build Log== A comprehensive build log can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1RXnXOvgjxtOjpiluZcgzOdxUQpuNqMQJkTBpVb2HkW0/edit?usp=sharing ==BOM== ===Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} ===Non Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} [[Category:Racers]] 4d93c8a0615b1d0ec4fa756c4c84061c500f3e19 0 82 255 2024-05-22T09:42:01Z Domlin 10 Created page with "{{Racer |ProfilePic=NotFound.jpg |BuiltBy=Dom Tag |Theme=Ice Cream Van |FirstRace=EMF 2024 (hopefully) |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Single Vevor style motor |ESC=Standard Vevor style |Battery=48V 12S Lipo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Mobility Scooter gearbox and differential }} ==Background== Mr Whip-E is themed to look (and sound) like an old-school ice cream van. {{clear}} ==Construction== The donor vehicle was a mobility scooter which had the body, seat, steering 'handlebars'..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=NotFound.jpg |BuiltBy=Dom Tag |Theme=Ice Cream Van |FirstRace=EMF 2024 (hopefully) |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Single Vevor style motor |ESC=Standard Vevor style |Battery=48V 12S Lipo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Mobility Scooter gearbox and differential }} ==Background== Mr Whip-E is themed to look (and sound) like an old-school ice cream van. {{clear}} ==Construction== The donor vehicle was a mobility scooter which had the body, seat, steering 'handlebars' and batteries removed prior to purchasing it. The model was unknown but features suspension front and rear. The original motor was a combined motor-gearbox-diff-axle assembly, so this became a part that I wanted to retain to avoid having to re-make parts that already worked. To achieve this, a Vevor style motor was selected. The original mobility scooter .... WIP {{clear}} ==Powertrain== WIP {{clear}} ==Other Features== WIP {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} WIP ==Limitations== WIP {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 761c24e76ad0d6c0cb9cc51cdb8564856b7a283d 267 255 2024-06-18T17:39:17Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Whipe.png |BuiltBy=Dom Tag |Theme=Ice Cream Van |FirstRace=EMF 2024 (hopefully) |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Single Vevor style motor |ESC=Standard Vevor style |Battery=48V 12S Lipo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Mobility Scooter gearbox and differential }} ==Background== Mr Whip-E is themed to look (and sound) like an old-school ice cream van. {{clear}} ==Construction== The donor vehicle was a mobility scooter which had the body, seat, steering 'handlebars' and batteries removed prior to purchasing it. The model was unknown but features suspension front and rear. The original motor was a combined motor-gearbox-diff-axle assembly, so this became a part that I wanted to retain to avoid having to re-make parts that already worked. To achieve this, a Vevor style motor was selected. The original mobility scooter .... WIP {{clear}} ==Powertrain== WIP {{clear}} ==Other Features== WIP {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} WIP ==Limitations== WIP {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 8254cf2ee7261740b79f27cb86af4048b1995046 0 39 256 233 2024-05-22T13:33:35Z Cstubbs 3 /* DIY pack for CYBR TRK */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Most people running 2x 6S packs expect to burn 4000-6000mAh per pack in a 5 minute race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. {{clear}} ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL {{clear}} ==Li-Ion== ===DIY pack for [[CYBR TRK]]=== *Cells are reclaimed Samsung 21700 30T from NKON. *Spot welded using an eBay China special PCB and handheld electrodes. **PCB needed some solder reinforcement as pictured where tracks started to cook. **Instructions called for ~80Ah battery. I ended up needing a 100Ah (1000cca) in parallel with slightly crusty 36Ah (330cca) being constantly topped off by a PSU to >14v for decent welds. **Electrodes need to be regularly redressed. Not too blunt, not too pointy. Like a small ball point pen seems to work. **Did try using rewound microwave oven transformer, pulsing a solid state relay. Seemed like not enough current for too much time. Electrodes would melt without welding the nickel at all. *Initially planned to use 0.3mm nickel strip for high current handling but getting pure 0.15mm to weld was tough enough, so that's what I went with. It's in links of 3 parallel rungs which seems to stand up to the task. *BMS - **Cheap BMS and supposedly rated for 40A continuous, 70A peak (rules stipulate 30A fuse at 12s). Performance in races was ok, but ran so hot it melted the battery wrap, then later burned out. **60A DALY BMS much better. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LiIonDIYPack.jpeg|thumb|150px|Pack welded]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMS.jpeg|thumb|150px|BMS fitted - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMSebay.jpeg|thumb|150px|Cheap BMS - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYWelder.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder PCB, Electrodes, Batteries]] | [[File:LiIonDIYProbes.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder electrode dressing]] |} ===DIY pack for [[Rule Zero]]=== *BMS for "big packs": [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001111512716.html 12S/45A version of Aliexpress BMS] *Secondary BMS: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HNF628V/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item Amazon 14s 40A Lithium Battery Protection Board] {{clear}} ==Used EV== ... ===VW GTE packs=== source: https://zoomev.uk/products/vw-1-086kwh-battery-module-12s-48v cad model: https://grabcad.com/library/vw-gte-hybrid-battery-module-1 (step file) To "use" (discharge) them, you just connect your load to the terminals, they're always "on". To (non-balance) charge them, you just give them 50.4V and they accept current. We think the onboard BMS isn't like a standard hobby grade BMS, it won't disconnect the output if the voltage gets too low, the current gets too high or they're about to be overcharged. They may have the code to do that, but need to be connected to a suitable contactor to actually do the switching, there's no compoennts to do load switching on the PCB. There're a couple of ways you can charge them, which is best depends on your skills, budget and what you already have. the traditional way would be to rip out the pcb from the battery, solder in balance leads and use a standard lipo charger (e.g. a hota D6). Its rare to find 12S capable chargers, so you'd have to electrically split it into two packs, and charge as two 6S packs. The alternative route, and the way Brian Corteil and Mark Mellors are going, is to use a 50.4V power supply (e.g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32829834144.html or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004586061770.html ) with an Arduino and a CAN transceiver. Brian has mostly figured it out but it still needs a laptop and a wiring mess to do the balance charging. We're hoping to get a batch of PCBs made at some point and put it all in a box. ===useful links:=== https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms https://secondlifestorage.com/index.php?threads/reverse-engineered-bms-teensy3-2-based-working-with-tesla-module-oem-slaveboard.6248/ https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/jomytec/Teensy-CAN-bus-controller-in-EV https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/2022/03/02/vw-passat-gte-battery-slave-module-connected-to-simpbms/ Brian's balancing code: https://gist.github.com/Corteil/f83ee4708a0838859fcd7e00524226ac ===balance connector:=== TE 1-1670990-1 1355717-1 https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1355717-1/2187722 ==Chargers== *Turnigy Accucel / HTRC C150 - Runs directly from mains, only just charges packs between races at 1hr intervals *HOTA D6 Pro - Pro runs directly from mains, little faster than C150, popular in the pits. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 7e213bc4c778dbcf35d781f5b02f62cb2f280817 257 256 2024-05-22T13:38:45Z Cstubbs 3 /* General */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Most people running 2x 6S packs expect to burn 4000-6000mAh per pack in a 5 minute race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. 6S batteries can be connected in series to race. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. *Terminals MUST be properly and securely insulated, especially before the fuse. {{clear}} ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL {{clear}} ==Li-Ion== ===DIY pack for [[CYBR TRK]]=== *Cells are reclaimed Samsung 21700 30T from NKON. *Spot welded using an eBay China special PCB and handheld electrodes. **PCB needed some solder reinforcement as pictured where tracks started to cook. **Instructions called for ~80Ah battery. I ended up needing a 100Ah (1000cca) in parallel with slightly crusty 36Ah (330cca) being constantly topped off by a PSU to >14v for decent welds. **Electrodes need to be regularly redressed. Not too blunt, not too pointy. Like a small ball point pen seems to work. **Did try using rewound microwave oven transformer, pulsing a solid state relay. Seemed like not enough current for too much time. Electrodes would melt without welding the nickel at all. *Initially planned to use 0.3mm nickel strip for high current handling but getting pure 0.15mm to weld was tough enough, so that's what I went with. It's in links of 3 parallel rungs which seems to stand up to the task. *BMS - **Cheap BMS and supposedly rated for 40A continuous, 70A peak (rules stipulate 30A fuse at 12s). Performance in races was ok, but ran so hot it melted the battery wrap, then later burned out. **60A DALY BMS much better. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LiIonDIYPack.jpeg|thumb|150px|Pack welded]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMS.jpeg|thumb|150px|BMS fitted - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMSebay.jpeg|thumb|150px|Cheap BMS - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYWelder.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder PCB, Electrodes, Batteries]] | [[File:LiIonDIYProbes.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder electrode dressing]] |} ===DIY pack for [[Rule Zero]]=== *BMS for "big packs": [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001111512716.html 12S/45A version of Aliexpress BMS] *Secondary BMS: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HNF628V/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item Amazon 14s 40A Lithium Battery Protection Board] {{clear}} ==Used EV== ... ===VW GTE packs=== source: https://zoomev.uk/products/vw-1-086kwh-battery-module-12s-48v cad model: https://grabcad.com/library/vw-gte-hybrid-battery-module-1 (step file) To "use" (discharge) them, you just connect your load to the terminals, they're always "on". To (non-balance) charge them, you just give them 50.4V and they accept current. We think the onboard BMS isn't like a standard hobby grade BMS, it won't disconnect the output if the voltage gets too low, the current gets too high or they're about to be overcharged. They may have the code to do that, but need to be connected to a suitable contactor to actually do the switching, there's no compoennts to do load switching on the PCB. There're a couple of ways you can charge them, which is best depends on your skills, budget and what you already have. the traditional way would be to rip out the pcb from the battery, solder in balance leads and use a standard lipo charger (e.g. a hota D6). Its rare to find 12S capable chargers, so you'd have to electrically split it into two packs, and charge as two 6S packs. The alternative route, and the way Brian Corteil and Mark Mellors are going, is to use a 50.4V power supply (e.g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32829834144.html or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004586061770.html ) with an Arduino and a CAN transceiver. Brian has mostly figured it out but it still needs a laptop and a wiring mess to do the balance charging. We're hoping to get a batch of PCBs made at some point and put it all in a box. ===useful links:=== https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms https://secondlifestorage.com/index.php?threads/reverse-engineered-bms-teensy3-2-based-working-with-tesla-module-oem-slaveboard.6248/ https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/jomytec/Teensy-CAN-bus-controller-in-EV https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/2022/03/02/vw-passat-gte-battery-slave-module-connected-to-simpbms/ Brian's balancing code: https://gist.github.com/Corteil/f83ee4708a0838859fcd7e00524226ac ===balance connector:=== TE 1-1670990-1 1355717-1 https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1355717-1/2187722 ==Chargers== *Turnigy Accucel / HTRC C150 - Runs directly from mains, only just charges packs between races at 1hr intervals *HOTA D6 Pro - Pro runs directly from mains, little faster than C150, popular in the pits. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 0952964296281b35bfb7a8f7b9a99eec19a7200a 258 257 2024-05-22T13:39:50Z Cstubbs 3 /* General */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== *Most people running 2x 6S packs expect to burn 4000-6000mAh per pack in a 5 minute race. *You will have <1hr to recharge between races. Typically 45 mins. *Charging a pair of 6S batteries is typically easier than charging a 12S. 6S batteries can be connected in series to race. *Safe handing and charging processes must always be followed in the pits, including use of lipo bags. *Terminals MUST be properly and securely insulated, especially before the fuse. *You may not be allowed to race if you have not taken appropriate safety precautions. {{clear}} ==Li-Po== *Hobbyking *CNHL {{clear}} ==Li-Ion== ===DIY pack for [[CYBR TRK]]=== *Cells are reclaimed Samsung 21700 30T from NKON. *Spot welded using an eBay China special PCB and handheld electrodes. **PCB needed some solder reinforcement as pictured where tracks started to cook. **Instructions called for ~80Ah battery. I ended up needing a 100Ah (1000cca) in parallel with slightly crusty 36Ah (330cca) being constantly topped off by a PSU to >14v for decent welds. **Electrodes need to be regularly redressed. Not too blunt, not too pointy. Like a small ball point pen seems to work. **Did try using rewound microwave oven transformer, pulsing a solid state relay. Seemed like not enough current for too much time. Electrodes would melt without welding the nickel at all. *Initially planned to use 0.3mm nickel strip for high current handling but getting pure 0.15mm to weld was tough enough, so that's what I went with. It's in links of 3 parallel rungs which seems to stand up to the task. *BMS - **Cheap BMS and supposedly rated for 40A continuous, 70A peak (rules stipulate 30A fuse at 12s). Performance in races was ok, but ran so hot it melted the battery wrap, then later burned out. **60A DALY BMS much better. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LiIonDIYPack.jpeg|thumb|150px|Pack welded]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMS.jpeg|thumb|150px|BMS fitted - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYBMSebay.jpeg|thumb|150px|Cheap BMS - not ideal]] | [[File:LiIonDIYWelder.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder PCB, Electrodes, Batteries]] | [[File:LiIonDIYProbes.jpg|thumb|150px|Welder electrode dressing]] |} ===DIY pack for [[Rule Zero]]=== *BMS for "big packs": [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001111512716.html 12S/45A version of Aliexpress BMS] *Secondary BMS: [https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HNF628V/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item Amazon 14s 40A Lithium Battery Protection Board] {{clear}} ==Used EV== ... ===VW GTE packs=== source: https://zoomev.uk/products/vw-1-086kwh-battery-module-12s-48v cad model: https://grabcad.com/library/vw-gte-hybrid-battery-module-1 (step file) To "use" (discharge) them, you just connect your load to the terminals, they're always "on". To (non-balance) charge them, you just give them 50.4V and they accept current. We think the onboard BMS isn't like a standard hobby grade BMS, it won't disconnect the output if the voltage gets too low, the current gets too high or they're about to be overcharged. They may have the code to do that, but need to be connected to a suitable contactor to actually do the switching, there's no compoennts to do load switching on the PCB. There're a couple of ways you can charge them, which is best depends on your skills, budget and what you already have. the traditional way would be to rip out the pcb from the battery, solder in balance leads and use a standard lipo charger (e.g. a hota D6). Its rare to find 12S capable chargers, so you'd have to electrically split it into two packs, and charge as two 6S packs. The alternative route, and the way Brian Corteil and Mark Mellors are going, is to use a 50.4V power supply (e.g. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32829834144.html or https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004586061770.html ) with an Arduino and a CAN transceiver. Brian has mostly figured it out but it still needs a laptop and a wiring mess to do the balance charging. We're hoping to get a batch of PCBs made at some point and put it all in a box. ===useful links:=== https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms https://secondlifestorage.com/index.php?threads/reverse-engineered-bms-teensy3-2-based-working-with-tesla-module-oem-slaveboard.6248/ https://openinverter.org/wiki/VW_Hybrid_Battery_Packs https://github.com/jomytec/Teensy-CAN-bus-controller-in-EV https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/2022/03/02/vw-passat-gte-battery-slave-module-connected-to-simpbms/ Brian's balancing code: https://gist.github.com/Corteil/f83ee4708a0838859fcd7e00524226ac ===balance connector:=== TE 1-1670990-1 1355717-1 https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1355717-1/2187722 ==Chargers== *Turnigy Accucel / HTRC C150 - Runs directly from mains, only just charges packs between races at 1hr intervals *HOTA D6 Pro - Pro runs directly from mains, little faster than C150, popular in the pits. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 39a6d188076cc36582c5c7987ffe958d201625b3 0 83 259 2024-06-07T08:02:07Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! (crane) The Arduino logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via SD card. {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 81583f5e0f617c10fe88541b41bb481fb3864961 260 259 2024-06-07T08:24:45Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! (crane) The Arduino logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via SD card. {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 905ab2ccd523592f58e97ef97087669e72a3e7fc 261 260 2024-06-07T08:43:19Z Cstubbs 3 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! (crane) The Arduino logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via SD card. {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 6e79c60b9c9d0972247b99c7bc19a54307e456d0 263 261 2024-06-18T17:30:23Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Voltcraneoprofile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! (crane) The Arduino logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via SD card. {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 833d087a93364c66cba63fe889799e66289f96d0 265 263 2024-06-18T17:36:07Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Voltcraneoprofile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Ltm1060.png|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! (crane) The Arduino logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via SD card. {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] d363d87420beaaae8326a59f3642b75034157eaf 271 265 2024-06-18T18:03:57Z Cstubbs 3 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Voltcraneoprofile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Ltm1060.png|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cranesteer1.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering rear view]] | [[File:Cranesteer2.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering front view]] | [[File:Cranesteer3.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! (crane) The Arduino logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via SD card. {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 5d6df46903dd68185625946620e9fc5d217ef44b 272 271 2024-06-18T18:07:44Z Cstubbs 3 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Voltcraneoprofile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Ltm1060.png|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M6/M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed (bumpers). The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". The steering components are mostly constructed from offcuts of bedframe, steel angle welded to make U section, or 4x30mm flat steel bar. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cranesteer1.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering rear view]] | [[File:Cranesteer2.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering front view]] | [[File:Cranesteer3.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! (crane) The Arduino logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via SD card. {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 0da5ec7ffd3781f5e87dbfc27dc7207cd5c3f861 275 272 2024-06-18T18:13:41Z Cstubbs 3 /* Other Features */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Voltcraneoprofile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Ltm1060.png|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M6/M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed (bumpers). The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". The steering components are mostly constructed from offcuts of bedframe, steel angle welded to make U section, or 4x30mm flat steel bar. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cranesteer1.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering rear view]] | [[File:Cranesteer2.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering front view]] | [[File:Cranesteer3.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! (crane) The Arduino logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via SD card. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Voltcraneoprofile.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extended]] | [[File:Crane boom motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extension motor]] | [[File:Crane lift motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom lift motor]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 02eec6e9bfbb152a41013235c8872413a7468f23 277 275 2024-06-18T18:14:56Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Voltcraneo racing.JPG |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Ltm1060.png|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M6/M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed (bumpers). The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". The steering components are mostly constructed from offcuts of bedframe, steel angle welded to make U section, or 4x30mm flat steel bar. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cranesteer1.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering rear view]] | [[File:Cranesteer2.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering front view]] | [[File:Cranesteer3.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! (crane) The Arduino logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via SD card. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Voltcraneoprofile.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extended]] | [[File:Crane boom motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extension motor]] | [[File:Crane lift motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom lift motor]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] a6077eff6e09b976ab17010489644539e9dc59b4 278 277 2024-06-18T18:23:23Z Cstubbs 3 /* Other Features */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Voltcraneo racing.JPG |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Ltm1060.png|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M6/M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed (bumpers). The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". The steering components are mostly constructed from offcuts of bedframe, steel angle welded to make U section, or 4x30mm flat steel bar. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cranesteer1.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering rear view]] | [[File:Cranesteer2.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering front view]] | [[File:Cranesteer3.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== The crane boom can be raised and lowered, extended and retracted (2 sections), and the winch/hook raised and lowered by a control panel below the steering wheel. The winch is a 12V caravan/boat trailer winch rated for 900kg. All other actuation is driven by drill motors with their attached two speed (low gear) gearbox and chuck, which drives an M12 nut along a threaded rod. Opposing bearings are used to take the axial forces rather than relying on the drill. The boom raise/lower rod drives a nut attached to the elbow of an old monitor mount, which in turn raises the boom. Power is provided by a dedicated 3S lipo. The boom is lowered in to a cradle and secured directly to the chassis using the steel cable during racing. It fits within the envolope of the body/bumpers. An Arduino logs all hoverboard and control telemetry locally via SD card. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Voltcraneoprofile.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extended]] | [[File:Crane boom motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extension motor]] | [[File:Crane lift motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom lift motor]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] c209dc8d8dc86dfebaefbfd6d98d09a91476e32f 279 278 2024-06-18T18:28:40Z Cstubbs 3 /* Other Features */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Voltcraneo racing.JPG |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Ltm1060.png|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M6/M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed (bumpers). The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". The steering components are mostly constructed from offcuts of bedframe, steel angle welded to make U section, or 4x30mm flat steel bar. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cranesteer1.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering rear view]] | [[File:Cranesteer2.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering front view]] | [[File:Cranesteer3.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== The crane boom can be raised and lowered, extended and retracted (2 sections), and the winch/hook raised and lowered by a control panel below the steering wheel. The boom itself is constructed from 3 telescopic sections of 18mm plywood, running on internal/external 608 skateboard bearings or homemade tubular bearings at each end. The winch is a 12V caravan/boat trailer winch rated for 900kg. All other actuation is driven by drill motors with their attached two speed (low gear) gearbox and chuck, which drives an M12 nut along a threaded rod. Opposing bearings are used to take the axial forces rather than relying on the drill. The boom raise/lower rod drives a nut attached to the elbow of an old monitor mount, which in turn raises the boom. Power is provided by a dedicated 3S lipo. The boom is lowered in to a cradle and secured directly to the chassis using the steel cable during racing. It fits within the envolope of the body/bumpers. 10 strobing orange hazard lights, 6 orange chasing LED beacons, 2 white headlights and 2 red brake lights illuminate the track for night racing. An Arduino logs all hoverboard and control telemetry locally via SD card. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Voltcraneoprofile.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extended]] | [[File:Crane boom motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extension motor]] | [[File:Crane lift motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom lift motor]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== coming soon ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] b6f43896275ce5aa7d38b3148ed59be996207793 6 84 262 2024-06-18T17:29:59Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 85 264 2024-06-18T17:36:03Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 86 266 2024-06-18T17:39:02Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 87 268 2024-06-18T18:02:18Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 88 269 2024-06-18T18:02:55Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 89 270 2024-06-18T18:03:12Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 90 273 2024-06-18T18:12:58Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 91 274 2024-06-18T18:13:16Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 92 276 2024-06-18T18:14:46Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 1 280 245 2024-07-01T17:23:50Z Cstubbs 3 /* Useful Links */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] * [https://github.com/HackyRacers/ GitHub] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Gears & Chains == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 80a065f662849e8227f207c16d148b3cf77f4430 0 93 281 2024-07-01T17:38:35Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "==Gantry & Transponders== Our timing system is an I-Lap Timing System from rclapcounter.com. It consists of a chain of bridge sensors mounted over the gantry, which are connected by RJ45 cables carrying RS485 serial. This connects to a timing PC over USB using an "I-Lap Timing Decoder". Our transponders are mainly the standard I-Lap Car / Truck Transponder, fitted with a 2 pin JST connector. Some are provided in an enclosure with an integral 2S lipo, some will require a..." wikitext text/x-wiki ==Gantry & Transponders== Our timing system is an I-Lap Timing System from rclapcounter.com. It consists of a chain of bridge sensors mounted over the gantry, which are connected by RJ45 cables carrying RS485 serial. This connects to a timing PC over USB using an "I-Lap Timing Decoder". Our transponders are mainly the standard I-Lap Car / Truck Transponder, fitted with a 2 pin JST connector. Some are provided in an enclosure with an integral 2S lipo, some will require a power supply from your hacky. 5V USB power banks can be used, but care should be taken to avoid auto-shutoff of the power bank, as the transponders do not draw much current. We have also successfully been trialling CoreIR based transponders as our number of racers outgrows our stock of original transponders. {{clear}} ----- ==Software== We currently use Flip Side Racing Software, which does occasionally have some reliability issues. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 933135b665c6babbdffa42e93c313fda97623baa 282 281 2024-07-01T17:39:14Z Cstubbs 3 /* Gantry & Transponders */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Gantry & Transponders== Our timing system is an [https://www.rclapcounter.com/|I-Lap Timing System from rclapcounter.com]. It consists of a chain of bridge sensors mounted over the gantry, which are connected by RJ45 cables carrying RS485 serial. This connects to a timing PC over USB using an "I-Lap Timing Decoder". Our transponders are mainly the standard I-Lap Car / Truck Transponder, fitted with a 2 pin JST connector. Some are provided in an enclosure with an integral 2S lipo, some will require a power supply from your hacky. 5V USB power banks can be used, but care should be taken to avoid auto-shutoff of the power bank, as the transponders do not draw much current. We have also successfully been trialling CoreIR based transponders as our number of racers outgrows our stock of original transponders. {{clear}} ----- ==Software== We currently use Flip Side Racing Software, which does occasionally have some reliability issues. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 13df757e7b4a0b494aa37d7d36c195833227004d 283 282 2024-07-01T17:39:36Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==Gantry & Transponders== Our timing system is an [https://www.rclapcounter.com/ I-Lap Timing System from rclapcounter.com]. It consists of a chain of bridge sensors mounted over the gantry, which are connected by RJ45 cables carrying RS485 serial. This connects to a timing PC over USB using an "I-Lap Timing Decoder". Our transponders are mainly the standard I-Lap Car / Truck Transponder, fitted with a 2 pin JST connector. Some are provided in an enclosure with an integral 2S lipo, some will require a power supply from your hacky. 5V USB power banks can be used, but care should be taken to avoid auto-shutoff of the power bank, as the transponders do not draw much current. We have also successfully been trialling CoreIR based transponders as our number of racers outgrows our stock of original transponders. {{clear}} ----- ==Software== We currently use Flip Side Racing Software, which does occasionally have some reliability issues. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] d744b14dcc178a59955aed4ae3c70c75b8a4d763 284 283 2024-07-01T17:40:09Z Cstubbs 3 /* Software */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Gantry & Transponders== Our timing system is an [https://www.rclapcounter.com/ I-Lap Timing System from rclapcounter.com]. It consists of a chain of bridge sensors mounted over the gantry, which are connected by RJ45 cables carrying RS485 serial. This connects to a timing PC over USB using an "I-Lap Timing Decoder". Our transponders are mainly the standard I-Lap Car / Truck Transponder, fitted with a 2 pin JST connector. Some are provided in an enclosure with an integral 2S lipo, some will require a power supply from your hacky. 5V USB power banks can be used, but care should be taken to avoid auto-shutoff of the power bank, as the transponders do not draw much current. We have also successfully been trialling CoreIR based transponders as our number of racers outgrows our stock of original transponders. {{clear}} ----- ==Software== We currently use [http://www.flipsideracing.org/projects/fslapcounter/ Flip Side Racing Software], which does occasionally have some reliability issues. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] d2ac25d4661526ed114cae1cd77e4b819cff59c2 285 284 2024-07-01T17:41:04Z Cstubbs 3 /* Gantry & Transponders */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==Gantry & Transponders== Our timing system is an [https://www.rclapcounter.com/ I-Lap Timing System from rclapcounter.com]. It consists of a chain of bridge sensors mounted over the gantry, which are connected by RJ45 cables carrying RS485 serial. This connects to a timing PC over USB using an "I-Lap Timing Decoder". Our transponders are mainly the standard I-Lap Car / Truck Transponder, fitted with a 2 pin JST connector. Some are provided in an enclosure with an integral 2S lipo, some will require a power supply from your hacky. 5V USB power banks can be used, but care should be taken to avoid auto-shutoff of the power bank, as the transponders do not draw much current. ===Open Source Transponders=== We have also successfully been trialling CoreIR based transponders as our number of racers outgrows our stock of original transponders. This is being documented on the [https://github.com/HackyRacers Hacky Racers GitHub]. {{clear}} ----- ==Software== We currently use [http://www.flipsideracing.org/projects/fslapcounter/ Flip Side Racing Software], which does occasionally have some reliability issues. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] e5e46f2fbb20ff8c8a50ba918743395f82d7c637 0 94 286 2024-07-01T17:47:20Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Racer |ProfilePic=Profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Rory |Theme=Wheelie bin |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 18 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw brushless scooter motor |ESC= 1.5kW 48v brushless ebike ESC |Battery= 3 x 16Ah 4S Multistar |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact= }} ==Build log== [https://hackaday.io/project/160195-hacky-racers-building-the-dustbin-7/details See the build log on Hackaday.io]. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]]" wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Rory |Theme=Wheelie bin |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 18 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw brushless scooter motor |ESC= 1.5kW 48v brushless ebike ESC |Battery= 3 x 16Ah 4S Multistar |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact= }} ==Build log== [https://hackaday.io/project/160195-hacky-racers-building-the-dustbin-7/details See the build log on Hackaday.io]. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 653966020b32bfaab6a966f940e89256e3a6a994 288 286 2024-07-01T17:49:50Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=DB7-Profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Rory |Theme=Wheelie bin |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 18 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw brushless scooter motor |ESC= 1.5kW 48v brushless ebike ESC |Battery= 3 x 16Ah 4S Multistar |Gearbox=??:?? Chain |Contact= }} ==Build log== [https://hackaday.io/project/160195-hacky-racers-building-the-dustbin-7/details See the build log on Hackaday.io]. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] b09fe96f2a34e9425cca0273355720952faf532c 6 95 287 2024-07-01T17:49:36Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 96 289 2024-08-31T20:17:24Z Vince31 11 Created page with "ACDC Racer Profile page under construction [[Category:Racers]]" wikitext text/x-wiki ACDC Racer Profile page under construction [[Category:Racers]] 996f0888e3fd30909a2a10ed0e12ba0c6610823f 290 289 2024-08-31T20:25:05Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} page under construction [[Category:Racers]] 9fe58bbda7b53f1a075c413079b3a4d78e95d489 291 290 2024-08-31T20:33:36Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:RuleZeroOrigin.jpg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero - Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hertfordshire Fire & Rescue, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, ABS sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 10-12Ah, 12S Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs with BMS. (details?) 2kw scooter motor & 1.5kw ebike controller. (details?) Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:RuleZeroMotor.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/VinceWilliams @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] f4fc01c2ca84f7a8701d4e36ab154c90d40819f5 292 291 2024-08-31T20:34:48Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:RuleZeroOrigin.jpg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero - Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hertfordshire Fire & Rescue, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, ABS sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 10-12Ah, 12S Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs with BMS. (details?) 2kw scooter motor & 1.5kw ebike controller. (details?) Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:RuleZeroMotor.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 72cc63478e674c05ce8700ea1b61bbf54ef7cbcf 294 292 2024-08-31T21:01:34Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build, this includes incorporating all the lessons learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger). ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 10-12Ah, 12S Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs with BMS. (details?) 2kw scooter motor & 1.5kw ebike controller. (details?) Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:RuleZeroMotor.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] ef448caa7c2d250af58235956a626c8ea89bfcde 295 294 2024-08-31T21:03:24Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build, this includes incorporating all the lessons learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger). ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 10-12Ah, 12S Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs with BMS. (details?) 2kw scooter motor & 1.5kw ebike controller. (details?) Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:RuleZeroMotor.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 447e14d22d3d48368ff40ec370fddd7442eb24f3 300 295 2024-08-31T21:09:57Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build, this includes incorporating all the lessons learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger). ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 10-12Ah, 12S Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs with BMS. (details?) 2kw scooter motor & 1.5kw ebike controller. (details?) Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 5c53efd30a7342c161144470de9a650aad936b8e 6 97 293 2024-08-31T20:41:08Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 98 296 2024-08-31T21:03:48Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 99 297 2024-08-31T21:04:45Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 299 297 2024-08-31T21:07:07Z Vince31 11 Vince31 uploaded a new version of [[File:ACDC2.jpg]] wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 100 298 2024-08-31T21:05:32Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 96 301 300 2024-08-31T21:13:59Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build, this includes incorporating all the lessons learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger). ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. {{clear}} ==Construction== Chassis Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 2x 6S 10ah Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs. 2kw BOMA scooter motor & generic 1.5kw ebike controller, both from AliExpress. Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 5427594a2494b2970ce2e45610ffea73a3f718c7 302 301 2024-08-31T21:44:57Z Vince31 11 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build, this includes incorporating all the lessons learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger). ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. {{clear}} ==Construction== Chassis Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 2x 6S 10ah Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs. 2kw BOMA scooter motor & generic 1.5kw ebike controller, both from AliExpress. Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 509885adefc7c20b45d5adbb510bd7b6aaf9cce6 303 302 2024-08-31T21:46:51Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build, this includes incorporating all the lessons learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger). ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. {{clear}} ==Construction== Chassis Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 2x 6S 10ah Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs. 2kw BOMA scooter motor & generic 1.5kw ebike controller, both from AliExpress. Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 6f49e8ed6092c14166b61e70d86ec288656a6468 304 303 2024-08-31T21:48:31Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build, this includes incorporating all the lessons learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger). ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. {{clear}} ==Construction== Chassis Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 2x 6S 10ah Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs. 2kw BOMA scooter motor & generic 1.5kw ebike controller, both from AliExpress. Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 0619b7dd71df51ab4c548350a23abd57efbb4813 306 304 2024-08-31T22:01:05Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 2x 6S 10ah Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs. 2kw BOMA scooter motor & generic 1.5kw ebike controller, both from AliExpress. Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 4fffb909158a1689d7e431d2d2a4ec9c6d6dca55 307 306 2024-08-31T22:02:53Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 2x 6S 10ah Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs. 2kw BOMA scooter motor & generic 1.5kw ebike controller, both from AliExpress. Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 1fdfa6689e52fcaaf8c29068b75a8b1c911b829b 308 307 2024-08-31T22:26:10Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. Controller - ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. Batteries - ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Race, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the driving factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] c6260d1bdcc75c3b8d62f4b4f2ef59a5af26b131 309 308 2024-08-31T22:27:43Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Controller - ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Batteries - ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Race, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the driving factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] e80bb719390b3c082d05fc77921e9467683532c2 310 309 2024-08-31T22:29:18Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Race, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the driving factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] f1e736e178d225f8417469f8d114f1477f363cbf 311 310 2024-08-31T22:30:11Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Race, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the driving factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 41bfce8a6b86bb761930e790eb07f2e6daba0472 312 311 2024-08-31T22:30:50Z Vince31 11 /* Drivetrain */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 6908f9c16d0e4e155767fec71fbaf5adefc80e0d 313 312 2024-08-31T22:31:40Z Vince31 11 /* Other Features */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 2aedb438780dee7477edef66ce2b70100ce283e9 314 313 2024-08-31T22:33:01Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 59d68cd489d249379f4d63d3044e4c064280f5a2 315 314 2024-08-31T22:34:10Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 8d8aa27babcfc12461363475ee8a0748d823b706 316 315 2024-08-31T22:34:25Z Vince31 11 /* Controller */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] d28d56da0062bae044e7a821ba13e806a1e2f62d 317 316 2024-08-31T22:35:58Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] a407d24a0c6e2053884d3f70434b1ba1b8f9fa99 318 317 2024-08-31T22:40:02Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The base Chassis is a mobility scooter with the original front axle. Motor and Drive Steering Wheels and Tyres Brakes {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 0ac956d836677ec6034a4a002db909d33bbd97c1 325 318 2024-09-01T20:30:24Z Vince31 11 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor, then recently I've added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 75144a7df28bf654a7517d40d708afb25f062381 326 325 2024-09-01T20:31:17Z Vince31 11 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] db8a8a787d75a5eaefd70784bb6d1bed444b3e19 327 326 2024-09-01T20:31:31Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor, then recently I've added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] e74ff4b180206156ab5943423be69f1b2e396f12 328 327 2024-09-01T20:31:54Z Vince31 11 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor, then recently I've added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] f3b802c9b7bd98a2212db258e2a5cf7fae5e0f2b 329 328 2024-09-01T20:32:27Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== Motor - ACDC uses a single 2kw BOMA scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor, then recently I've added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 05b3abfaff465a16ae5f75500466ea43a0a84b43 330 329 2024-09-01T20:34:35Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] b8dd9db5f15e7c9a1f40b8f6e4bcf3e9c3f15a4d 331 330 2024-09-01T20:35:15Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] efa016b9b1ad8445853d1f70855a528fe10025bb 332 331 2024-09-01T20:36:40Z Vince31 11 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] e7f5c6f1877787f0a32ee223fef570187e390d0a 333 332 2024-09-01T20:41:00Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 4a3a98af125de0696f0587f56a8514862bc82210 334 333 2024-09-01T20:41:40Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. [[File:Motor_new.jpg|thumb|]] {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 65451602f4944120ce5787b7b798ec46f9dbf5fe 336 334 2024-09-01T20:43:21Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 4a3a98af125de0696f0587f56a8514862bc82210 337 336 2024-09-01T20:45:06Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 1cf5b9a0966934a8b9fa9f157d1743e58942fe62 338 337 2024-09-01T20:45:43Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that I got from a USA eBay seller. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] d82bc5ea3ed85af69866c83e1f2be1bbbbdb3b58 339 338 2024-09-01T20:46:44Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] ea757f8deaba3d57b7b97ed7840f09067e2b6933 340 339 2024-09-01T20:49:36Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw it off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] f60293b0c4817bc56ecea7de68fc24b47548e0c3 341 340 2024-09-01T20:51:20Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw it off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 89ce625a16e464a6aec75b67d4f9dd17cacf89c1 342 341 2024-09-01T20:51:35Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor. Recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw it off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 594454522a4618551817061bf265811e53c2bcdd 343 342 2024-09-01T20:52:55Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £347.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] ef19d091cdc8011b3a6faac5c8e6d872b2ca9c20 344 343 2024-09-01T20:55:29Z Vince31 11 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point and not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive is poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] ec97949a4508116dc0ce27b746ceee7384f9361f 345 344 2024-09-01T20:56:40Z Vince31 11 /* Limitations */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {{clear}} ==Batteries== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. [[File:Placeholder.jpeg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 66d979cc980d5274e22785f09be811251a0016e3 346 345 2024-09-01T20:59:29Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 380a23713ad191faa78c458e506847d5fa571864 347 346 2024-09-01T21:00:15Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|center]] ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] b6133e759ca7778e514148b95a1dcb31f4555577 348 347 2024-09-01T21:00:33Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 436863efa2b9f9168a9081e96434bae104e4e674 349 348 2024-09-01T21:03:16Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 5b7db521a359b91aae6b24bd94867013da984fcc 350 349 2024-09-01T21:03:50Z Vince31 11 /* Controller */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 298e260da4cd878f48f7651cad0a06b695afc1d5 6 101 305 2024-08-31T21:49:03Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 102 319 2024-09-01T20:00:51Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 103 320 2024-09-01T20:01:39Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 104 321 2024-09-01T20:02:12Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 105 322 2024-09-01T20:02:49Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 106 323 2024-09-01T20:03:24Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 107 324 2024-09-01T20:03:53Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 108 335 2024-09-01T20:42:53Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 96 351 350 2024-09-01T21:04:46Z Vince31 11 /* Controller */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:1500w_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 694fe9fbbe19ce7cc96dd84136df540c1807f373 352 351 2024-09-01T21:05:10Z Vince31 11 /* Controller */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:1500w_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 73ed2cd459322e1e70496296057638afb66f7efe 353 352 2024-09-01T21:05:39Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:1500w_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 2751c0d8e1171e86e44b61ed7727387f3b12ea8c 354 353 2024-09-01T21:06:25Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:1500w_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== The gearing ratio depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 387f794e649795ea81cc8106878948dbcb5030bb 355 354 2024-09-01T21:09:46Z Vince31 11 /* Drivetrain */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:1500w_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 88f3b7d6b9477dd5ab3effe76ce04fe13dc35dee 356 355 2024-09-01T21:10:03Z Vince31 11 /* Awards */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:1500w_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 400a09224c058e21df5f8a62c13b815e3e8d204c 0 30 357 232 2024-09-01T22:45:37Z Vince31 11 /* Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". this might help with figuring out the connections: https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373 The connections you absolutely need to get them driving are: * power in: two thick wires, probably red and black * throttle: three thin wires, ground (may be black), 5V (may be red) and signal * power to motor: three thick wires, probably yellow, green and blue * motor hall sensor signal connector: five thin wires, probably red, black, yellow, blue, green * reverse: two thin wires, best to match the connector type from the link above That may be all you need to get it running. Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. For reversing the vevor motors, Dave found swapping the blue/green phase wires and also swapping the blue/yellow hall wires does the trick. Ian found swapping the blue/yellow phase wires and also swapping the green/yellow hall wires worked for him. The Vevor controllers are more picky about the hall/phase pairings than other controllers. There's likely another pair combination that will work. some advice from Rob Orwin: The "electric lock line" usually needs to be connected to positive in order for the controller to allow the throttle to work and power the motor. Just for fun, sometimes these need to be connected to negative but it's the vast minority. The self learning wires when touched together, reverse the direction of the motor, meaning you don't need to mess around with Phase wires. The Low brake wires are for brake activated motor cut offs. The high brake wires are to power a brake light. The "three speed" connection you just need to bridge to earth whichever makes the motor turn the fastest. That's about it, generally. You can usually tape off the brake wires and permanently connect the electric lock line and just have a switch on the power supply. You can also buy brushless motor and controller testers for a tenner or so, that'll help you figure out what is doing what, without the risk of blowing anything up. Edit from Vince: When first connecting up the motor to the controller and powering it up then you should have the "Learning wires" connected together. Beware, you MUST either have no drive chain connected between motor and wheels or have the wheels off the ground before attempting this as the motor will spin up a second or two after you power up. Connecting the "learn" wires together will allow the controller to self configure itself to the motor phase windings and Hall sensor configuration. There's no need to go swapping phase wires and hall sensor wires around manually to get the motor to work. If the motor spins correctly in the desired direction then simply unplug the Learning wires while the motor is still running, the controller will then save this "Learned" configuration. If the motor is spinning in the wrong (Reverse) direction then simply reconnect the Learn wires again with power still ON, and it will rotate the other way. You can also blip the throttle with the Learn wires connected to reverse the motor direction. When the motor is spinning in the desired direction then simply disconnect the Learn wires while the motor is still running to save the configuration. Most of the controllers have a two wire "Reverse" connector too (mine are Purple and Black), one of the wires is a Ground wire. Connect a momentary push switch across the terminals of this connector to Ground the signal wire and reverse the motor direction. The controller will only allow the motor to reverse if it has stopped first, so it wont immediately reverse direction under load. The motor speed is also limited and reduced in the reverse direction. [[File:Ebike_esc_connectors.jpg]] {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] d6c8c1a29176c513cd098a53794e518df7890305 358 357 2024-09-01T22:45:52Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". this might help with figuring out the connections: https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373 The connections you absolutely need to get them driving are: * power in: two thick wires, probably red and black * throttle: three thin wires, ground (may be black), 5V (may be red) and signal * power to motor: three thick wires, probably yellow, green and blue * motor hall sensor signal connector: five thin wires, probably red, black, yellow, blue, green * reverse: two thin wires, best to match the connector type from the link above That may be all you need to get it running. Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. For reversing the vevor motors, Dave found swapping the blue/green phase wires and also swapping the blue/yellow hall wires does the trick. Ian found swapping the blue/yellow phase wires and also swapping the green/yellow hall wires worked for him. The Vevor controllers are more picky about the hall/phase pairings than other controllers. There's likely another pair combination that will work. some advice from Rob Orwin: The "electric lock line" usually needs to be connected to positive in order for the controller to allow the throttle to work and power the motor. Just for fun, sometimes these need to be connected to negative but it's the vast minority. The self learning wires when touched together, reverse the direction of the motor, meaning you don't need to mess around with Phase wires. The Low brake wires are for brake activated motor cut offs. The high brake wires are to power a brake light. The "three speed" connection you just need to bridge to earth whichever makes the motor turn the fastest. That's about it, generally. You can usually tape off the brake wires and permanently connect the electric lock line and just have a switch on the power supply. You can also buy brushless motor and controller testers for a tenner or so, that'll help you figure out what is doing what, without the risk of blowing anything up. Edit from Vince: When first connecting up the motor to the controller and powering it up then you should have the "Learning wires" connected together. Beware, you MUST either have no drive chain connected between motor and wheels or have the wheels off the ground before attempting this as the motor will spin up a second or two after you power up. Connecting the "learn" wires together will allow the controller to self configure itself to the motor phase windings and Hall sensor configuration. There's no need to go swapping phase wires and hall sensor wires around manually to get the motor to work. If the motor spins correctly in the desired direction then simply unplug the Learning wires while the motor is still running, the controller will then save this "Learned" configuration. If the motor is spinning in the wrong (Reverse) direction then simply reconnect the Learn wires again with power still ON, and it will rotate the other way. You can also blip the throttle with the Learn wires connected to reverse the motor direction. When the motor is spinning in the desired direction then simply disconnect the Learn wires while the motor is still running to save the configuration. Most of the controllers have a two wire "Reverse" connector too (mine are Purple and Black), one of the wires is a Ground wire. Connect a momentary push switch across the terminals of this connector to Ground the signal wire and reverse the motor direction. The controller will only allow the motor to reverse if it has stopped first, so it wont immediately reverse direction under load. The motor speed is also limited and reduced in the reverse direction. [[File:Ebike_esc_connectors.jpg]] {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] ffb1ce2c4255f0f938393c0fa95a59bcfe28a330 359 358 2024-09-01T22:46:07Z Vince31 11 /* Brushless Motors */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". this might help with figuring out the connections: https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373 The connections you absolutely need to get them driving are: * power in: two thick wires, probably red and black * throttle: three thin wires, ground (may be black), 5V (may be red) and signal * power to motor: three thick wires, probably yellow, green and blue * motor hall sensor signal connector: five thin wires, probably red, black, yellow, blue, green * reverse: two thin wires, best to match the connector type from the link above That may be all you need to get it running. Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. For reversing the vevor motors, Dave found swapping the blue/green phase wires and also swapping the blue/yellow hall wires does the trick. Ian found swapping the blue/yellow phase wires and also swapping the green/yellow hall wires worked for him. The Vevor controllers are more picky about the hall/phase pairings than other controllers. There's likely another pair combination that will work. some advice from Rob Orwin: The "electric lock line" usually needs to be connected to positive in order for the controller to allow the throttle to work and power the motor. Just for fun, sometimes these need to be connected to negative but it's the vast minority. The self learning wires when touched together, reverse the direction of the motor, meaning you don't need to mess around with Phase wires. The Low brake wires are for brake activated motor cut offs. The high brake wires are to power a brake light. The "three speed" connection you just need to bridge to earth whichever makes the motor turn the fastest. That's about it, generally. You can usually tape off the brake wires and permanently connect the electric lock line and just have a switch on the power supply. You can also buy brushless motor and controller testers for a tenner or so, that'll help you figure out what is doing what, without the risk of blowing anything up. Edit from Vince: When first connecting up the motor to the controller and powering it up then you should have the "Learning wires" connected together. Beware, you MUST either have no drive chain connected between motor and wheels or have the wheels off the ground before attempting this as the motor will spin up a second or two after you power up. Connecting the "learn" wires together will allow the controller to self configure itself to the motor phase windings and Hall sensor configuration. There's no need to go swapping phase wires and hall sensor wires around manually to get the motor to work. If the motor spins correctly in the desired direction then simply unplug the Learning wires while the motor is still running, the controller will then save this "Learned" configuration. If the motor is spinning in the wrong (Reverse) direction then simply reconnect the Learn wires again with power still ON, and it will rotate the other way. You can also blip the throttle with the Learn wires connected to reverse the motor direction. When the motor is spinning in the desired direction then simply disconnect the Learn wires while the motor is still running to save the configuration. Most of the controllers have a two wire "Reverse" connector too (mine are Purple and Black), one of the wires is a Ground wire. Connect a momentary push switch across the terminals of this connector to Ground the signal wire and reverse the motor direction. The controller will only allow the motor to reverse if it has stopped first, so it wont immediately reverse direction under load. The motor speed is also limited and reduced in the reverse direction. [[File:Ebike_esc_connectors.jpg]] {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] d6c8c1a29176c513cd098a53794e518df7890305 360 359 2024-09-01T22:55:16Z Vince31 11 /* Brushless Motors */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". this might help with figuring out the connections: https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373 For the Controller, the connections you absolutely need to get the motor driving are: * power in: two thick wires, probably red and black * throttle: three thin wires, ground (may be black), 5V (may be red) and signal * power to motor: three thick wires, probably yellow, green and blue * motor hall sensor signal connector: five thin wires, probably red, black, yellow, blue, green * reverse: two thin wires, best to match the connector type from the link above That may be all you need to get it running. Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. For reversing the vevor motors, Dave found swapping the blue/green phase wires and also swapping the blue/yellow hall wires does the trick. Ian found swapping the blue/yellow phase wires and also swapping the green/yellow hall wires worked for him. The Vevor controllers are more picky about the hall/phase pairings than other controllers. There's likely another pair combination that will work. some advice from Rob Orwin: The "electric lock line" usually needs to be connected to positive in order for the controller to allow the throttle to work and power the motor. Just for fun, sometimes these need to be connected to negative but it's the vast minority. The self learning wires when touched together, reverse the direction of the motor, meaning you don't need to mess around with Phase wires. The Low brake wires are for brake activated motor cut offs. The high brake wires are to power a brake light. The "three speed" connection you just need to bridge to earth whichever makes the motor turn the fastest. That's about it, generally. You can usually tape off the brake wires and permanently connect the electric lock line and just have a switch on the power supply. You can also buy brushless motor and controller testers for a tenner or so, that'll help you figure out what is doing what, without the risk of blowing anything up. Edit from Vince: When first connecting up the motor to the controller and powering it up then you should have the "Learning wires" connected together. Beware, you MUST either have no drive chain connected between motor and wheels or have the wheels off the ground before attempting this as the motor will spin up a second or two after you power up. Connecting the "learn" wires together will allow the controller to self configure itself to the motor phase windings and Hall sensor configuration. There's no need to go swapping phase wires and hall sensor wires around manually to get the motor to work. If the motor spins correctly in the desired direction then simply unplug the Learning wires while the motor is still running, the controller will then save this "Learned" configuration. If the motor is spinning in the wrong (Reverse) direction then simply reconnect the Learn wires again with power still ON, and it will rotate the other way. You can also blip the throttle with the Learn wires connected to reverse the motor direction. When the motor is spinning in the desired direction then simply disconnect the Learn wires while the motor is still running to save the configuration. As an absolute minimum configuration, to test a motor and controller together, all you need to connect is the 3 motor phase wires (Blue, Yellow and Green) with the controller, the 5 wire Hall sensor connector, and then connect the Ignition or Electronic lock wire to the main 48v positive line, then finally connect the Learn wires of the controller together. You don't even need the throttle connected. When you power up the controller the motor will run at a constant speed and you have a working Controller and motor combination. Most of the controllers have a two wire "Reverse" connector too (mine are Purple and Black), one of the wires is a Ground wire. Connect a momentary push switch across the terminals of this connector to Ground the signal wire and reverse the motor direction. The controller will only allow the motor to reverse if it has stopped first, so it wont immediately reverse direction under load. The motor speed is also limited and reduced in the reverse direction. [[File:Ebike_esc_connectors.jpg]] {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 tyres are about the only size which can be [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA made to fit]. A brake from a Xiaomi M365 can also be fitted to the inside wall of the motor with some modification. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 60659ca9f10cb500af69ee49837e2172100488e2 0 109 361 2024-09-02T22:36:37Z Vince31 11 Created page with " [[Category:Racers]]" wikitext text/x-wiki [[Category:Racers]] 7fd4196c504892f3133d16c79c71a87c116eca09 362 361 2024-09-02T22:39:00Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] fbe59d552462da8dee80b755e6d30e5a8166ab3d 363 362 2024-09-02T22:39:45Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} \begin{table}[] \begin{tabular}{|l|l|l|} \hline Item & BOM Price & Notes \\ \hline Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork & £35.00 & £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork \\ \hline Pillow bearings & £30.64 & \\ \hline Axle shaft 25mm & £20.02 & \\ \hline Pair of front wheel hubs & £29.99 & \\ \hline Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm & £34.00 & \\ \hline Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) & £3.12 & \\ \hline Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) & £- & Brake Component - Free \\ \hline Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) & £6.72 & \\ \hline Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) & £- & Brake Component - Free \\ \hline Pair of Brake Disks & £- & Brake Component - Free \\ \hline Pair of rear sprockets & £9.99 & \\ \hline 8mm T8F chain & £4.25 & \\ \hline Ammo box & £- & \\ \hline Brushless 2Kw motor & £79.99 & AliExpress, bought in 2020 \\ \hline Motor controller & £15.84 & AliExpress, bought in 2020 \\ \hline Throttle pedal & £10.09 & \\ \hline Steering wheel & £24.99 & \\ \hline 2x mtb brake set & £- & Brake Component - Free \\ \hline Batteries & £- & Batteries - Free \\ \hline Switches & £2.00 & £9.99 for 10 \\ \hline Seat & £10.99 & \\ \hline Wheels + Tyres & £30.00 & £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres \\ \hline Total & £347.63 & \\ \hline \end{tabular} \end{table} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 5119400e1e67f759b62f29de3ece4196faf0ccd5 364 363 2024-09-02T22:41:15Z Vince31 11 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] fbe59d552462da8dee80b755e6d30e5a8166ab3d 365 364 2024-09-02T22:49:23Z Vince31 11 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== \begin{table}[] \begin{tabular}{lll} Bodge Charger 2 BOM & BOM & Notes \\ Chassis frame & £20.00 & Bed frame \\ Donor Vehicle & £22.50 & eBay, original Bodge Charger \\ Tyres & £- & included with Donor Vehicle \\ Wheels & £- & included with Donor Vehicle \\ Seat & £- & included with Donor Vehicle \\ Bodywork & £25.00 & Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. \\ Brakes & £- & MTB Hydraulic brakes \\ Steering Rack & £23.78 & Ali Express Rack and Pinion \\ Steering Wheel & £- & included with Donor Vehicle \\ Steering Wheel Shaft & £- & included with Donor Vehicle \\ Front Suspension & £13.00 & 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter \\ Rear suspension & £13.00 & 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter \\ Motor & £106.78 & 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors \\ Motor Controller & £31.80 & 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller \\ Axle & £16.24 & 20mm hollow shaft \\ Axle bearings & £24.44 & Pillow bearings \\ Collars & £5.30 & Adapters for Sprockets \\ Nut \& bolts & £20.00 & Various \\ Switches & £10.77 & 2x power switches, reverse switch \\ Battery & £- & E-Golf Battery Pack \\ Sprockets & £21.98 & 2x 74 tooth sprockets \\ Chain & £- & included with sprockets \\ Electronic components & £15.24 & ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc \\ Throttle pedal & £16.78 & 2x throttle pedals \\ XT90 connectors & £5.00 & XT90 connectors \\ MT60 connectors & £3.00 & MT60 connectors \\ Wiring & £20.00 & Various \\ Brake Return spring & £- & Classic car throttle return spring \\ Isolator switch & £- & XT90 link \\ Total & £414.61 & \\ & & \\ & & \end{tabular} \end{table} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 1390a9603f20f5a34c2ea4a05f41825988dc7e5d 366 365 2024-09-02T22:51:29Z Vince31 11 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |- | | | |- | | | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] bd9a11dda574e4be946db4e3d89ee6208bdea996 367 366 2024-09-02T22:52:30Z Vince31 11 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |- | | | |- | | | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] c3dcf8330f5aae95218e0aa4363cb7f642f7d8cf 368 367 2024-09-02T22:52:56Z Vince31 11 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 1cd7ba8ec01a0b6287d649f6857c63d1f45a6349 369 368 2024-09-02T22:53:44Z Vince31 11 /* Awards */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 58f16523abc12306d4dcb2b7fde175967d638cdc 370 369 2024-09-02T22:54:03Z Vince31 11 /* Limitations */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 5f3614fdbfed7ffc5ef152cd17c7f7fc7a60eb76 371 370 2024-09-02T22:54:16Z Vince31 11 /* Drivetrain */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] f388a69d9a539b65debab5320c74f7d0aacbb46f 372 371 2024-09-02T22:54:38Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 206b647e60395aa32306ffabb22e6b128c0f7f7f 373 372 2024-09-02T22:54:49Z Vince31 11 /* Controller */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 9e34423131c7ac4f58b0563b5bf9471c3366fe98 374 373 2024-09-02T22:55:02Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 084b9183350e7d4b048dd15dc6f3552be299e28d 375 374 2024-09-02T22:55:13Z Vince31 11 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] f301618af305b8f3603d1719f4cee4d2891648ff 376 375 2024-09-02T22:55:25Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] d2919c61bae7c1927f36f5cd3d891c2e3b9e485d 377 376 2024-09-02T22:57:01Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 177e67272a93a650ca1c658c8f5e7eba36584d40 386 377 2024-09-05T18:40:32Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 13daec8d2777237da0f012090a43145676902077 387 386 2024-09-05T18:41:14Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 91c2168f972b4554748af90234a1f0a9a6cfa900 388 387 2024-09-05T18:42:18Z Vince31 11 /* Construction */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 87c7b28f6072da34e6bca1dc1942e16796bcf051 389 388 2024-09-05T18:55:09Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] f7f191a63ee4ae4652af99f774ee570fbc754832 390 389 2024-09-05T18:55:30Z Vince31 11 /* Gallery */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 5ade0fdf6380a6b42190093c1e70c6d290ffd60c 391 390 2024-09-05T18:57:04Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] e048013ac4be364ad827e8254c601814d70a659e 392 391 2024-09-05T19:08:31Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (ACDC is a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits but some of the tracks we race on through the year can be held on rough bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 8f36865230ae916dff3dbff8fdeb39e62d04d626 393 392 2024-09-05T19:10:16Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 74c7a6fac81d0a7729906c107466de5bed5cf48a 6 110 378 2024-09-05T18:38:16Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 111 379 2024-09-05T18:38:34Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 112 380 2024-09-05T18:38:46Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 113 381 2024-09-05T18:39:01Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 114 382 2024-09-05T18:39:14Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 115 383 2024-09-05T18:39:26Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 116 384 2024-09-05T18:39:41Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 117 385 2024-09-05T18:39:57Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 118 394 2024-09-05T19:15:26Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 119 395 2024-09-05T19:15:43Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 120 396 2024-09-05T19:16:01Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 121 397 2024-09-05T19:16:22Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 122 398 2024-09-05T19:16:34Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 123 399 2024-09-05T19:16:50Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 124 400 2024-09-05T19:18:37Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 125 401 2024-09-05T19:18:54Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 126 402 2024-09-05T19:19:11Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 109 403 393 2024-09-05T19:19:59Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 92eaa9288024e4f2fae2796500e5f4c469501bb3 404 403 2024-09-05T19:20:42Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] a4f20496d10beebfe77ac43fa2404e9f03c9311d 405 404 2024-09-05T19:21:21Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 5f61ab5acd080172defa9ad7ba87a047b00ffb10 406 405 2024-09-05T19:22:35Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 00026d0e6d3c89e0ee50441e8a8121bc8e941261 407 406 2024-09-05T19:22:55Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 25aff8dec391935711b69d07467bc999fb77205b 408 407 2024-09-05T19:24:10Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] b3d26e03254c676c44e6c31208288fb86dd52311 409 408 2024-09-05T19:29:21Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} More text here {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 8dd77ab47b55a4697bb6507b82bbfcff01453308 410 409 2024-09-05T19:39:36Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 7f90c612309100f936395cc9f1f4fc0095257acd 411 410 2024-09-05T19:41:07Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 3f9036cbb92b11207ca900091704bb100877d23f 412 411 2024-09-05T19:42:25Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] ef89f6afcdc8c260ef41d1fb1bc6fad3e8d8e178 413 412 2024-09-05T19:42:55Z Vince31 11 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 569b8600119e1b4ac18833b6bd0eead0b1cbfc84 414 413 2024-09-05T19:44:26Z Vince31 11 /* Drivetrain */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] fad72772d1518bb6be0e759dd036a32a7677f7f6 415 414 2024-09-05T19:47:03Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== The battery module is a single 12s pack originally from an eGolf EV. As you can see from the photos I've removed the original BMS board and split the pack into two 6s configurations. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] e6d8375512411c5daae15a49228724fd335de934 416 415 2024-09-05T19:56:25Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== The battery module is a single 12s pack originally from an eGolf EV. As you can see from the photos I've removed the original BMS board and split the pack into two 6s configurations. The battery as it comes is made up of 12 standard 4.1v Li-Ion cells housed in a sturdy metal container with a BMS PCB fitted on top. But seeing as I already have a powerful Dual 6S balance charger, then it made sense to split the pack into 2x 6S modules and get rid of the redundant BMS PCB and just charge the pack in balance mode as I normally do with my old 6S LiPo packs. So I wired up the pack as 2x 6S modules and connected balance leads to all the cells so that it would connect to my charger. To use the pack in its 48v 12S mode then all I needed to do was to connect the two 6S sub-packs in series again for racing with an XT90 adapter I made up. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] f516f1b2b48df15cef8fc8ac91d90df5f53ee671 417 416 2024-09-05T19:57:00Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== The battery module is a single 12s pack originally from an eGolf EV. As you can see from the photos I've removed the original BMS board and split the pack into two 6s configurations. The battery as it comes is made up of 12 standard 4.1v Li-Ion cells housed in a sturdy metal container with a BMS PCB fitted on top. But seeing as I already have a powerful Dual 6S balance charger, then it made sense to split the pack into 2x 6S modules and get rid of the redundant BMS PCB and just charge the pack in balance mode as I normally do with my old 6S LiPo packs. So I wired up the pack as 2x 6S modules and connected balance leads to all the cells so that it would connect to my charger. To use the pack in its 48v 12S mode then all I needed to do was to connect the two 6S sub-packs in series again for racing with an XT90 adapter I made up. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] a8fac291a6ca002f6ce3850eebb51b64335d09f0 424 417 2024-09-14T20:44:50Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== The battery module is a single 12s pack originally from an eGolf EV. As you can see from the photos I've removed the original BMS board and split the pack into two 6s configurations. The battery as it comes is made up of 12 standard 4.1v Li-Ion cells housed in a sturdy metal container with a BMS PCB fitted on top. But seeing as I already have a powerful Dual 6S balance charger, then it made sense to split the pack into 2x 6S modules and get rid of the redundant BMS PCB and just charge the pack in balance mode as I normally do with my old 6S LiPo packs. So I wired up the pack as 2x 6S modules and connected balance leads to all the cells so that it would connect to my charger. To use the pack in its 48v 12S mode then all I needed to do was to connect the two 6S sub-packs in series again for racing with an XT90 adapter I made up. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} After my first round of testing at Footfest 24 I discovered that the Li-Ion EV module voltage sagged drastically during race conditions and after only a few minutes racing the voltage under load dropped low enough to brownout (power down) my ESP32 controller. After that I replaced the battery pack with the standard 2x 6S Multistar LiPo's I had as spares and all my voltage sag issues went away. Bodge Charger seemed to have more punch and power after swapping the batteries over to the old LiPo's, so the only conclusion I can draw from this is that the Li-Ion EV pack is no good for racing. Well, that's what testing is for!! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] fc9e58dd8a1a8967f0e6bbf315232f7ffcb870bc 425 424 2024-09-14T20:45:31Z Vince31 11 /* Batteries */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== The battery module is a single 12s pack originally from an eGolf EV. As you can see from the photos I've removed the original BMS board and split the pack into two 6s configurations. The battery as it comes is made up of 12 standard 4.1v Li-Ion cells housed in a sturdy metal container with a BMS PCB fitted on top. But seeing as I already have a powerful Dual 6S balance charger, then it made sense to split the pack into 2x 6S modules and get rid of the redundant BMS PCB and just charge the pack in balance mode as I normally do with my old 6S LiPo packs. So I wired up the pack as 2x 6S modules and connected balance leads to all the cells so that it would connect to my charger. To use the pack in its 48v 12S mode then all I needed to do was to connect the two 6S sub-packs in series again for racing with an XT90 adapter I made up. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} After my first round of testing at Footfest 24 I discovered that the Li-Ion EV module voltage sagged drastically during race conditions and after only a few minutes racing the voltage under load dropped low enough to brownout (power down) my ESP32 controller. After that I replaced the battery pack with the standard 2x 6S Multistar LiPo's I had as spares and all my voltage sag issues went away. Bodge Charger seemed to have more punch and power after swapping the batteries over to the old LiPo's, so the only conclusion I can draw from this is that the Li-Ion EV pack is no good for racing. Well, that's what testing is for!! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] d19e7573593f6435e560f497f7850197e7d0521b 426 425 2024-09-14T21:06:10Z Vince31 11 /* Motor */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== Bodge Charger 2 has two MY1020 motors, one fitted to each half axle as seen in the photos. These motors are one of the most common type used for Hackys, they are 2kw 48v motors primarily designed for scooters etc and work well when matched with a cheap AliExpress 1500w 48v e-bike controller. The motors have been modified to provide more cooling airflow through the core of the motors by drilling out some of the vent holes to 6mm. In Bodge Charger 2 the 2 motors are used independently to provide an electronic diff capability. In normal operation only one motor is driving at any one time, the other is left idling; which motor is providing drive is determined by a combination of steering angle and lateral G force. In a LH corner the RH motor will be providing drive and vice versa for a RH corner, drive always being provided to the outside wheel (typically having the most traction) which is the opposite of what a standard diff on a car does. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== The battery module is a single 12s pack originally from an eGolf EV. As you can see from the photos I've removed the original BMS board and split the pack into two 6s configurations. The battery as it comes is made up of 12 standard 4.1v Li-Ion cells housed in a sturdy metal container with a BMS PCB fitted on top. But seeing as I already have a powerful Dual 6S balance charger, then it made sense to split the pack into 2x 6S modules and get rid of the redundant BMS PCB and just charge the pack in balance mode as I normally do with my old 6S LiPo packs. So I wired up the pack as 2x 6S modules and connected balance leads to all the cells so that it would connect to my charger. To use the pack in its 48v 12S mode then all I needed to do was to connect the two 6S sub-packs in series again for racing with an XT90 adapter I made up. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} After my first round of testing at Footfest 24 I discovered that the Li-Ion EV module voltage sagged drastically during race conditions and after only a few minutes racing the voltage under load dropped low enough to brownout (power down) my ESP32 controller. After that I replaced the battery pack with the standard 2x 6S Multistar LiPo's I had as spares and all my voltage sag issues went away. Bodge Charger seemed to have more punch and power after swapping the batteries over to the old LiPo's, so the only conclusion I can draw from this is that the Li-Ion EV pack is no good for racing. Well, that's what testing is for!! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] bf50f73c44faec4801ea5e57b9c5eb0e06136125 427 426 2024-09-14T21:17:39Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Main.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motors== Bodge Charger 2 has two MY1020 motors, one fitted to each half axle as seen in the photos. These motors are one of the most common type used for Hackys, they are 2kw 48v motors primarily designed for scooters etc and work well when matched with a cheap AliExpress 1500w 48v e-bike controller. The motors have been modified to provide more cooling airflow through the core of the motors by drilling out some of the vent holes to 6mm. In Bodge Charger 2 the 2 motors are used independently to provide an electronic diff capability. In normal operation only one motor is driving at any one time, the other is left idling; which motor is providing drive is determined by a combination of steering angle and lateral G force. In a LH corner the RH motor will be providing drive and vice versa for a RH corner, drive always being provided to the outside wheel (typically having the most traction) which is the opposite of what a standard diff on a car does. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor Drivers/Controllers== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Hacky Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Brakes== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== The battery module is a single 12s pack originally from an eGolf EV. As you can see from the photos I've removed the original BMS board and split the pack into two 6s configurations. The battery as it comes is made up of 12 standard 4.1v Li-Ion cells housed in a sturdy metal container with a BMS PCB fitted on top. But seeing as I already have a powerful Dual 6S balance charger, then it made sense to split the pack into 2x 6S modules and get rid of the redundant BMS PCB and just charge the pack in balance mode as I normally do with my old 6S LiPo packs. So I wired up the pack as 2x 6S modules and connected balance leads to all the cells so that it would connect to my charger. To use the pack in its 48v 12S mode then all I needed to do was to connect the two 6S sub-packs in series again for racing with an XT90 adapter I made up. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} After my first round of testing at Footfest 24 I discovered that the Li-Ion EV module voltage sagged drastically during race conditions and after only a few minutes racing the voltage under load dropped low enough to brownout (power down) my ESP32 controller. After that I replaced the battery pack with the standard 2x 6S Multistar LiPo's I had as spares and all my voltage sag issues went away. Bodge Charger seemed to have more punch and power after swapping the batteries over to the old LiPo's, so the only conclusion I can draw from this is that the Li-Ion EV pack is no good for racing. Well, that's what testing is for!! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 742242a88adc9c0c5f403ef5bb7909106580b774 0 74 418 235 2024-09-09T14:49:47Z Cstubbs 3 /* Bumpers */ wikitext text/x-wiki Each car should have a theme that’s whacky and entertaining. The crazier the better! You score points for entertainment value as well as speed, so go all out and come up with something completely mad. Bodywork is highly recommended, but not mandatory as long as the car has a strong theme and meets the rules. ==Chassis== ===Wood=== The chassis for [[CYBR TRK]] was constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] |} {{clear}} ===Aluminium / Bolted (no welder)=== The chassis for [[CYBR TRK]] was later upgraded to an aluminium box section construction, made from scrap parts of a shelving unit. Given the additional weight of all the bolts required, it didn't end up noticeably lighter! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:CybrTrkAluChassis.jpg|thumb|alt=Aluminium chassis]] |} {{clear}} ===Steel / Welded=== This is the conventional approach taken for most builds. It can be strong, simple, and still fairly lightweight. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Welded steel chassis]] |} {{clear}} ==Body== ===Wood=== The body for [[CYBR TRK]] is constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. It was designed in CAD, cut with a mitre saw and table saw then assembled with glue, nailgun and screws. Panels were cut using a circular saw and jigsaw from a plotted template, and attached using with glue, nailgun and screws. Some nails have started to back out after a season of racing, which is not ideal from a puncture point of view. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:CybrTrkBodyFrame.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body frame]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Beginning panelling]] | [[File:CybrtrkUnpainted.jpg|thumb|alt=Panelled before paint]] | [[File:CybrktrkPainted.jpg|thumb|alt=Beginning painting]] |} {{clear}} ==Bumpers== [[File:Bumper rules.png|thumb|right]] The rules state: "Each bumper must cover at least 75mm of height within the vertical space of 100-150mm from the ground" Refer to the rules for all other requirements. See diagram [right] for examples. Bumper heights will be measured during tech check, with the driver in the vehicle. The purpose of this rule is to minimise the chance of one vehicle riding above/below another in the event of accidental collision. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 2a2e6f08543ddd50f0fd711270b0219feb1fb915 0 30 419 360 2024-09-09T15:16:40Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hoverboards */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Brushless Motors == === Vevor and similar 1500-2000w large inrunner Motors === See [[Rule Zero]] Suggested replacement hall sensors for Vevor motors: "Hall effect sensors 49E OH49E SS49E linear Hall switch". this might help with figuring out the connections: https://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p=2373 For the Controller, the connections you absolutely need to get the motor driving are: * power in: two thick wires, probably red and black * throttle: three thin wires, ground (may be black), 5V (may be red) and signal * power to motor: three thick wires, probably yellow, green and blue * motor hall sensor signal connector: five thin wires, probably red, black, yellow, blue, green * reverse: two thin wires, best to match the connector type from the link above That may be all you need to get it running. Some controllers also have an ignition switch, but its not a consistent connector or colour. you have to figure it out from either the chinese labels (google lens is good for translating them), or looking at pictures online of similar controllers that have the wires labelled in the listing. For reversing the vevor motors, Dave found swapping the blue/green phase wires and also swapping the blue/yellow hall wires does the trick. Ian found swapping the blue/yellow phase wires and also swapping the green/yellow hall wires worked for him. The Vevor controllers are more picky about the hall/phase pairings than other controllers. There's likely another pair combination that will work. some advice from Rob Orwin: The "electric lock line" usually needs to be connected to positive in order for the controller to allow the throttle to work and power the motor. Just for fun, sometimes these need to be connected to negative but it's the vast minority. The self learning wires when touched together, reverse the direction of the motor, meaning you don't need to mess around with Phase wires. The Low brake wires are for brake activated motor cut offs. The high brake wires are to power a brake light. The "three speed" connection you just need to bridge to earth whichever makes the motor turn the fastest. That's about it, generally. You can usually tape off the brake wires and permanently connect the electric lock line and just have a switch on the power supply. You can also buy brushless motor and controller testers for a tenner or so, that'll help you figure out what is doing what, without the risk of blowing anything up. Edit from Vince: When first connecting up the motor to the controller and powering it up then you should have the "Learning wires" connected together. Beware, you MUST either have no drive chain connected between motor and wheels or have the wheels off the ground before attempting this as the motor will spin up a second or two after you power up. Connecting the "learn" wires together will allow the controller to self configure itself to the motor phase windings and Hall sensor configuration. There's no need to go swapping phase wires and hall sensor wires around manually to get the motor to work. If the motor spins correctly in the desired direction then simply unplug the Learning wires while the motor is still running, the controller will then save this "Learned" configuration. If the motor is spinning in the wrong (Reverse) direction then simply reconnect the Learn wires again with power still ON, and it will rotate the other way. You can also blip the throttle with the Learn wires connected to reverse the motor direction. When the motor is spinning in the desired direction then simply disconnect the Learn wires while the motor is still running to save the configuration. As an absolute minimum configuration, to test a motor and controller together, all you need to connect is the 3 motor phase wires (Blue, Yellow and Green) with the controller, the 5 wire Hall sensor connector, and then connect the Ignition or Electronic lock wire to the main 48v positive line, then finally connect the Learn wires of the controller together. You don't even need the throttle connected. When you power up the controller the motor will run at a constant speed and you have a working Controller and motor combination. Most of the controllers have a two wire "Reverse" connector too (mine are Purple and Black), one of the wires is a Ground wire. Connect a momentary push switch across the terminals of this connector to Ground the signal wire and reverse the motor direction. The controller will only allow the motor to reverse if it has stopped first, so it wont immediately reverse direction under load. The motor speed is also limited and reduced in the reverse direction. [[File:Ebike_esc_connectors.jpg]] {{clear}} === Fault Finding Wiring Issues === [[File:SensoredBLDCMotorFlowchart.jpg|thumb|left]] Running backwards? Swap two motor phases. Some controllers may also need hall sensors swapped too, but not all. Motor not running smoothly? Does your controller have a teach or learn input? That's the easiest route to get it to work. If not, check out the flowchart to the left (credit lsdzs.com). {{clear}} == E-Scooter Controllers == See [[Rule Zero]] {{clear}} == Alternators & ESCs == See [[Pink My Ride]] {{clear}} == Hoverboards == See [[CYBR TRK]] Second hand Hoverboards are a great way to secure cheap motors, and sometimes even come with a working controller PCB! If the PCB is blown up, common faults include the TIP127 transistors to switch on / regulate the voltage to the board, or the H Bridge MOSFETs. Hoverboard motors are built in to the hub of the wheel, and are available in a few different sizes. They have the advantage of not requiring a chain, and are not locked to the same axle which improves cornering. Wiring is howerver a little more complicated. The boards typically run at 36V, but will tolerate 48V if you're lucky. Some boards are designed for 24V, which are a little less easily hackable. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC/blob/main/docs/20150722_hoverboard_sch.pdf Schematics have been quite well reverse engineered for these PCBs], and several alternative firmwares are availible. [https://github.com/EFeru/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC by EFeru on GitHub] is a favourite, which has lots of hacky friendly features. Although the motors are only rated at 350W each, some experimentaton with the PCBs showed they will briefly tolerate peaks up to 1.4kW, but catastrophicaly fail at 1.6kW. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. See Wheels & Tyres page. {{clear}} == Hall sensors == {| class="wikitable" style="width: 60%;" ! part number/label !! alt part number !! recommended by ! scope="col" style="width:200px;" | datasheet !! type !! switching point (Gauss) !! mv/gauss !! pin1 !! pin2 !! pin3 !! suitability |- | 13A 117 || SS413A? || OEM? || [https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/187/HWSC_S_A0012720386_1-3073244.pdf mouser] || bipolar || 140 || || 5V || GND || signal || SS413A untested |- | 3144 || || Michael West || [https://www.elecrow.com/download/A3141-2-3-4-Datasheet.pdf elecrow] || unipolar || 30 to 440G || || 5V || GND || signal || works in VEVOR/BOMA 2000W + ebike controller |- | 49E OH49E SS49E || || Chris Shakespeare || [https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/sps/siot/en-us/products/sensors/magnetic-sensors/linear-and-angle-sensor-ics/common/documents/sps-siot-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en-ciid-50359.pdf honeywell ] || linear || || 1.4 || 5V || GND || signal || works with VESC |} 49E OH49E SS49E appears to have a low output current so may not be suitable for escs with strong pull up resistors (such as some ebike ESCs). with an ebike ESC, the sensor couldn't pull the signal lines low for Mark. 3144 worked fine. ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] f837c55b8feae4326dd829601047b2fc594dc07e 0 67 420 217 2024-09-09T15:25:45Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hoverboard Hub Motors */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Go-Kart Wheels & Tyres == ===Split=== See [[Rule Zero]] *Twin tubes, side by side, with a valve on the inside and outside of the wheel. *Slightly easier to replace tyres/tubes in the pits as bead does not need to seal. *Custom machined hubs. *Part-worn tyres can be occasionally found for a reasonable price. *Slicks are fun. ===Unsplit=== See [[Pink My Ride]] *Tubeless. *Can be difficult to replace tyres in the pits, special tools and a high flow compressor help. {{clear}} == Mobility Scooters == A mobility scooter frame with steering, wheels and an axle can make a solid foundation for a beginner hacky racer. Their tyres however will wear out quickly, especially on tarmac. Typically use inner tubes. Readily available spares. {{clear}} == Mini ATVs == See [[LEtsGO]] {{clear}} == Hoverboard Hub Motors == See [[CYBR TRK]] Hoverboard wheels differ from most other types of hacky racer wheel, as the motor is built in to the centre. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 mobility scooter tyres are about the only size which can be made to fit. 8 1/2 x 2 look close, but do not fit. *Turning down the OD of the hub slightly and improving the surface finish makes fitting easier, but will weaken wheel. *The tyres can also be made to fit by removing material around the ID using a burr tool in a drill and taking it as close to the bead as you dare. This is easier, does not require a lathe, and does not weaken the wheel. *Cut a notch/pocket for the valve to exit (or punch a hole in the sidewall of the tyre). *Using washing up liquid as lube, with the tube inside the tyre and valve facing towards you, hook the bead just over the back edge of the rim. *Work the bead around the outside of the tyre towards the front. Not too far at this stage. *Hook the valve through the bead at the front, and push down, so it slips over the OD of the hub and into the previously cut notch/pocket. *Work the rest of the bead and other side of the tyre around the hub. *Reinstall the stator and cover plate. *Inflate to ~15PSI. ~25PSI leads to catastrophic failure. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:HoverboardValveNotch.jpeg|thumb|150px|Machined notch for valve (ignore crack!)]] | [[File:HoverboardLathe.jpg|thumb|150px|Cleaning up OD of hub]] | [[File:HoverboardTyreFitted.jpg|thumb|150px|Tyre fitted]] |} {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 4031dc9c5c374b01c59130da3af28eff5d61adaf 421 420 2024-09-09T15:26:13Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hoverboard Hub Motors */ wikitext text/x-wiki == Go-Kart Wheels & Tyres == ===Split=== See [[Rule Zero]] *Twin tubes, side by side, with a valve on the inside and outside of the wheel. *Slightly easier to replace tyres/tubes in the pits as bead does not need to seal. *Custom machined hubs. *Part-worn tyres can be occasionally found for a reasonable price. *Slicks are fun. ===Unsplit=== See [[Pink My Ride]] *Tubeless. *Can be difficult to replace tyres in the pits, special tools and a high flow compressor help. {{clear}} == Mobility Scooters == A mobility scooter frame with steering, wheels and an axle can make a solid foundation for a beginner hacky racer. Their tyres however will wear out quickly, especially on tarmac. Typically use inner tubes. Readily available spares. {{clear}} == Mini ATVs == See [[LEtsGO]] {{clear}} == Hoverboard Hub Motors == See [[CYBR TRK]] Hoverboard wheels differ from most other types of hacky racer wheel, as the motor is built in to the centre. It is possible to fit pneumatic tyres to the 6.5" hub motors with some careful modifications. 4.10/3.50-5 mobility scooter tyres are about the only size which can be made to fit. 8 1/2 x 2 look close, but do not fit. *Turning down the OD of the hub slightly and improving the surface finish makes fitting easier, but will weaken wheel. *The tyres can also be made to fit by removing rubber around the inner diameter using a burr tool in a drill and taking it as close to the bead as you dare. This is easier, does not require a lathe, and does not weaken the wheel. *Cut a notch/pocket for the valve to exit (or punch a hole in the sidewall of the tyre). *Using washing up liquid as lube, with the tube inside the tyre and valve facing towards you, hook the bead just over the back edge of the rim. *Work the bead around the outside of the tyre towards the front. Not too far at this stage. *Hook the valve through the bead at the front, and push down, so it slips over the OD of the hub and into the previously cut notch/pocket. *Work the rest of the bead and other side of the tyre around the hub. *Reinstall the stator and cover plate. *Inflate to ~15PSI. ~25PSI leads to catastrophic failure. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:HoverboardValveNotch.jpeg|thumb|150px|Machined notch for valve (ignore crack!)]] | [[File:HoverboardLathe.jpg|thumb|150px|Cleaning up OD of hub]] | [[File:HoverboardTyreFitted.jpg|thumb|150px|Tyre fitted]] |} {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 94c8347c675d5e86ce5f38c8ed2cf33742e019af 6 127 422 2024-09-14T20:33:33Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 96 423 356 2024-09-14T20:34:38Z Vince31 11 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC Logo.jpg|thumb|]] |} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:1500w_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Medals.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 793c71774f31c2786a110ddda0bec8d1f6e63307 0 2 428 239 2024-09-30T15:27:17Z Cstubbs 3 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>oSSG0ZJpOvY</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Tyres | £103.25 | £371.15 |- | Wood for frame/body | £40.00 | |- | Control PCB | £32.00 | |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Chassis alu | £20.00 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Light bar | £12.45 | |- | Paint | £10.00 | |- | Bumper steel | £10.00 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Chair | £9.29 | |- | Pedals | £7.86 | |- | LED strip | £5.60 | |- | Steering Wheel | £8.27 | |- | 12V reg | £4.89 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Bumpers | Excluded | |- | Batteries | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 26338cdba32be2649893f4e9a881f4efa886dbc1 429 428 2024-09-30T15:28:01Z Cstubbs 3 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>oSSG0ZJpOvY</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Tyres | £103.25 | £375.71 |- | Wood for frame/body | £40.00 | |- | Control PCB | £32.00 | |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 | |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 | |- | Chassis alu | £20.00 | |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 | |- | Light bar | £12.45 | |- | Paint | £10.00 | |- | Bumper steel | £10.00 | |- | Wire | £10.00 | |- | Rod ends | £9.31 | |- | Chair | £9.29 | |- | Pedals | £7.86 | |- | LED strip | £5.60 | |- | Steering Wheel | £8.27 | |- | 12V reg | £4.89 | |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 | |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 | |- | Steering column | £3.25 | |- | Steering rod | £2.80 | |- | Battery box | Excluded | |- | Brake kit | Excluded | |- | Brake standoffs | Excluded | |- | Kill switch | Excluded | |- | Bumpers | Excluded | |- | Batteries | Excluded | |- | Fuse | Excluded | |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 1015ce0a991153d4cb8473d9111b64f20eed9cbc 430 429 2024-09-30T15:30:56Z Cstubbs 3 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>oSSG0ZJpOvY</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! ==BOM== |- | {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} |- | {| class="wikitable" |- | |- |- | ! Item |- | ! Cost |- | ! Total |- | |- |- | | Tyres |- | | £103.25 |- | | £375.71 |- | |- |- | | Wood for frame/body |- | | £40.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Control PCB |- | | £32.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Swegway 1 |- | | £30.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Swegway 2 |- | | £30.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Chassis alu |- | | £20.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Motor drive enclosures |- | | £18.96 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Light bar |- | | £12.45 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Paint |- | | £10.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Bumper steel |- | | £10.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Wire |- | | £10.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Rod ends |- | | £9.31 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Chair |- | | £9.29 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Pedals |- | | £7.86 |- | | |- | |- |- | | LED strip |- | | £5.60 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Steering Wheel |- | | £8.27 |- | | |- | |- |- | | 12V reg |- | | £4.89 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Steering brackets |- | | £4.46 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Steering bolts |- | | £3.32 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Steering column |- | | £3.25 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Steering rod |- | | £2.80 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Battery box |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Brake kit |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Brake standoffs |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Kill switch |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Bumpers |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Batteries |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Fuse |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |} |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 55a26acedb6dafd0f8b72e1bfa77f1277bea403b 431 430 2024-09-30T15:33:24Z Cstubbs 3 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>oSSG0ZJpOvY</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- | |- |- | ! Item |- | ! Cost |- | ! Total |- | |- |- | | Tyres |- | | £103.25 |- | | £375.71 |- | |- |- | | Wood for frame/body |- | | £40.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Control PCB |- | | £32.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Swegway 1 |- | | £30.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Swegway 2 |- | | £30.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Chassis alu |- | | £20.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Motor drive enclosures |- | | £18.96 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Light bar |- | | £12.45 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Paint |- | | £10.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Bumper steel |- | | £10.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Wire |- | | £10.00 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Rod ends |- | | £9.31 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Chair |- | | £9.29 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Pedals |- | | £7.86 |- | | |- | |- |- | | LED strip |- | | £5.60 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Steering Wheel |- | | £8.27 |- | | |- | |- |- | | 12V reg |- | | £4.89 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Steering brackets |- | | £4.46 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Steering bolts |- | | £3.32 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Steering column |- | | £3.25 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Steering rod |- | | £2.80 |- | | |- | |- |- | | Battery box |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Brake kit |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Brake standoffs |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Kill switch |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Bumpers |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Batteries |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |- |- | | Fuse |- | | Excluded |- | | |- | |} |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] f378994bd528e94d90dac725831e60467a6a3498 432 431 2024-09-30T15:36:06Z Cstubbs 3 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>oSSG0ZJpOvY</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" style="vertical-align:middle;" |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" ! Item ! Cost |- | Tyres | £103.25 |- | Wood for frame/body | £40.00 |- | Control PCB | £32.00 |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 |- | Chassis alu | £20.00 |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 |- | Light bar | £12.45 |- | Paint | £10.00 |- | Bumper steel | £10.00 |- | Wire | £10.00 |- | Rod ends | £9.31 |- | Chair | £9.29 |- | Pedals | £7.86 |- | LED strip | £5.60 |- | Steering Wheel | £8.27 |- | 12V reg | £4.89 |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 |- | Steering column | £3.25 |- | Steering rod | £2.80 |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | |- | Total | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | £375.71 |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 3e45c752af7024080f118f28745b6fc803d74fc9 0 83 433 279 2024-09-30T15:45:25Z Cstubbs 3 /* BOM */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Voltcraneo racing.JPG |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Ltm1060.png|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M6/M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed (bumpers). The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". The steering components are mostly constructed from offcuts of bedframe, steel angle welded to make U section, or 4x30mm flat steel bar. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cranesteer1.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering rear view]] | [[File:Cranesteer2.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering front view]] | [[File:Cranesteer3.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== The crane boom can be raised and lowered, extended and retracted (2 sections), and the winch/hook raised and lowered by a control panel below the steering wheel. The boom itself is constructed from 3 telescopic sections of 18mm plywood, running on internal/external 608 skateboard bearings or homemade tubular bearings at each end. The winch is a 12V caravan/boat trailer winch rated for 900kg. All other actuation is driven by drill motors with their attached two speed (low gear) gearbox and chuck, which drives an M12 nut along a threaded rod. Opposing bearings are used to take the axial forces rather than relying on the drill. The boom raise/lower rod drives a nut attached to the elbow of an old monitor mount, which in turn raises the boom. Power is provided by a dedicated 3S lipo. The boom is lowered in to a cradle and secured directly to the chassis using the steel cable during racing. It fits within the envolope of the body/bumpers. 10 strobing orange hazard lights, 6 orange chasing LED beacons, 2 white headlights and 2 red brake lights illuminate the track for night racing. An Arduino logs all hoverboard and control telemetry locally via SD card. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Voltcraneoprofile.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extended]] | [[File:Crane boom motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extension motor]] | [[File:Crane lift motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom lift motor]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" style="vertical-align:bottom;" |- ! Item ! Cost |- | Tyres | £32.64 |- | HBs | £40.00 |- | Winch | £40.00 |- | M12 rod + nuts x3 | £16.11 |- | Drill motors | £11.66 |- | M12 rod bearings | £2.94 |- | 2x4 frame | £11.44 |- | 38*63*2.4m wood | £6.72 |- | Ply boom | £18.12 |- | Boom bearings | £2.40 |- | Body frame wood | £6.80 |- | Panelling ply | £3.40 |- | Steering UJ | £1.90 |- | pedals | £7.86 |- | Winch controls | £2.44 |- | steering wheel | £8.27 |- | Wire | £8.00 |- | IP Enclosures | £11.86 |- | Seat | £0.00 |- | Limit sw | £0.50 |- | Paint | £15.00 |- | Crimps | £3.33 |- | Eye hooks | £2.79 |- | Washers | £1.54 |- | Nuts | £5.00 |- | V monitor | £5.06 |- | Drag chain | £4.22 |- | Limit indicators | £2.25 |- | Voltage reg | £3.00 |- style="vertical-align:middle;" | Control PCB | £32.00 |- | Brakes | Excluded |- | Brake Spacers | Excluded |- | Haz lights | Excluded |- | Winch isolator | Excluded |- | Isolator | Excluded |- | Lighting controller | Excluded |- | Fuse box | Excluded |- | | |- | Total | £307.25 |} ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 9585e02776c236b48cd60feba33f3e9db99dd5c0 0 128 434 2024-09-30T16:56:41Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact spo..." wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. Qualifying: *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. Start: *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". Yellow Flag: *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. Red Flag: *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. Race format: *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). Finish: *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). Yellow Flag: *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick the barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. Red Flag: *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *Do not drive under the influence. *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: *Get away from the fire. *If it is safe to do so: *Isolate power *Remove fire from surroundings / building *Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. *Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 6c2094f07d5097035a0e528a1e4fc1374e1f5822 435 434 2024-09-30T16:59:10Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying:=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start:=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag:=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag:=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format:=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish:=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag:=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick the barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag:=== *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *Do not drive under the influence. *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. ===Fire=== *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 37035789ef8814e1a75d683bfcd554d0e9542ed5 436 435 2024-09-30T16:59:40Z Cstubbs 3 /* Racer Briefing */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag:=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick the barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag:=== *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *Do not drive under the influence. *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. ===Fire=== *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 7bd42ac0044f6ec0e57a0c0855da81c62b95697e 437 436 2024-09-30T17:05:57Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick the barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag=== *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 8aed3db6b5d13a9f9266fd37243e9638ee2a36e7 438 437 2024-09-30T17:08:41Z Cstubbs 3 /* Yellow Flag */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick the barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag=== *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] bec21c59bf723584c398c7b7828893d5d140710c 439 438 2024-09-30T17:09:37Z Cstubbs 3 /* Yellow Flag */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick the barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag=== *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 475ec8909bcf8fdf5eabc16f0813d28b19994923 440 439 2024-09-30T17:10:10Z Cstubbs 3 /* Yellow Flag */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag=== *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] fd5dd0067ddf8d9882b9861005a8b288169e8e03 441 440 2024-09-30T17:10:38Z Cstubbs 3 /* Yellow Flag */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag=== *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 3c70e31dd783af826ee27158856065f8b467ce52 442 441 2024-09-30T17:12:43Z Cstubbs 3 /* Red Flag */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag=== *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] e7fcc0d3fdef2c03826ddd81376076c0e3bdc90c 443 442 2024-09-30T17:13:30Z Cstubbs 3 /* Red Flag */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 3d5f6a9eb4cf90b1bc98e53f98de7e81dffa405a 444 443 2024-09-30T17:18:00Z Cstubbs 3 /* Fire */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 0de3f8e436612484334bbc834c4f12cf7a051d49 445 444 2024-09-30T17:21:40Z Cstubbs 3 /* Qualifying */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 7b26050a5451d21f2873605fb0980df51681c569 446 445 2024-09-30T17:24:31Z Cstubbs 3 /* Yellow Flag */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 815168aaf72603f1a5579dca1868bec65e33f870 447 446 2024-09-30T17:25:10Z Cstubbs 3 /* Yellow Flag */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Raise your hand if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. Keep it down/still or behind you. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] a8d953021e2551ab6d1084ead800044bbccc6785 448 447 2024-09-30T17:26:38Z Cstubbs 3 /* Yellow Flag */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Drive with one had raised if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. Keep it down/still or behind you. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] ea78a07e0330869fdd39019ae8e892a4dfea9c02 449 448 2024-09-30T17:29:44Z Cstubbs 3 /* General */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. *Try not to hit the barriers, yellow flags are no fun. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Drive with one had raised if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. Keep it down/still or behind you. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 8b8805d3aaa4406da00c81609ee659496ed149cf 450 449 2024-09-30T17:31:38Z Cstubbs 3 /* Finish */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. *Try not to hit the barriers, yellow flags are no fun. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Drive with one had raised if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal, if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. Keep it down/still or behind you. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 74daac336d844bc8074b3a9762b959cd8d9e2755 0 128 451 450 2024-09-30T17:32:12Z Cstubbs 3 /* Marshal Briefing */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. *Try not to hit the barriers, yellow flags are no fun. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Drive with one had raised if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal, if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== ===General=== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. Keep it down/still or behind you. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 18fe1c77791c381e87f36fb626fa28fb1314cb0d 452 451 2024-09-30T17:39:28Z Cstubbs 3 /* Racer Briefing */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. **Try not to hit the barriers, yellow flags are no fun. **Be moderately courteous. We're racing. There is no obligation to let people pass, but at the same time, do not cut them off or take closing gaps. *Racers that are significantly slower should however take the outside and allow others to pass. *Do not stop under the timing gantry. Just move. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Drive with one had raised if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal, if safe to do so. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== ===General=== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. Keep it down/still or behind you. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 3d511cbbb490d6541d05778d87b663d254cd7272 458 452 2024-10-02T16:08:31Z Cstubbs 3 /* Finish */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. **Try not to hit the barriers, yellow flags are no fun. **Be moderately courteous. We're racing. There is no obligation to let people pass, but at the same time, do not cut them off or take closing gaps. *Racers that are significantly slower should however take the outside and allow others to pass. *Do not stop under the timing gantry. Just move. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Drive with one had raised if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal, if safe to do so. *Be aware of people, other racers, and trailing wires from the transponder system. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== ===General=== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. Keep it down/still or behind you. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Assume your brakes WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] b8f8659fbf3da464bbcfa59fe71e81f9d1891b7c 459 458 2024-10-02T16:09:47Z Cstubbs 3 /* General */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. **Try not to hit the barriers, yellow flags are no fun. **Be moderately courteous. We're racing. There is no obligation to let people pass, but at the same time, do not cut them off or take closing gaps. *Racers that are significantly slower should however take the outside and allow others to pass. *Do not stop under the timing gantry. Just move. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Drive with one had raised if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal, if safe to do so. *Be aware of people, other racers, and trailing wires from the transponder system. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== ===General=== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. Keep it down/still or behind you. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Drive at a safe speed as if your brakes/steering/throttle WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] a165064c47c3a988bb3f4f82c7bcca55b5e56691 460 459 2024-10-02T16:12:40Z Cstubbs 3 /* Yellow Flag */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. **Try not to hit the barriers, yellow flags are no fun. **Be moderately courteous. We're racing. There is no obligation to let people pass, but at the same time, do not cut them off or take closing gaps. *Racers that are significantly slower should however take the outside and allow others to pass. *Do not stop under the timing gantry. Just move. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Drive with one had raised if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal, if safe to do so. *Be aware of people, other racers, and trailing wires from the transponder system. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== ===General=== Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *If a racer is injured, alert race control with a RED FLAG. *If a hacky is malfunctioning or on fire. Isolate the power, remove the driver, and alert race control with a RED FLAG. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. Keep it down/still or behind you. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Drive at a safe speed as if your brakes/steering/throttle WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 282cf20380b8b5c92bd7ebb6ff1e6eb55e4c79ad 461 460 2024-10-02T16:19:06Z Cstubbs 3 /* General */ wikitext text/x-wiki ==General== This is an aide-mémoire for briefings and is not a substitute for the official rules, which must be followed in full. All drivers and marshals should receive a briefing. {{clear}} ==Racer Briefing== ===General=== *Racers must hold a MSUK License, and have registered (emergency contacts) before taking part in a race. *Racers must have tech checked and qualified before taking part in a race. *Racers must wear helmets and closed shoes. *This is officially a non-contact sport. **Try not to hit the barriers, yellow flags are no fun. **Be moderately courteous. We're racing. There is no obligation to let people pass, but at the same time, do not cut them off or take closing gaps. *Racers that are significantly slower should however take the outside and allow others to pass. *Do not stop under the timing gantry. Just move. ===Qualifying=== *After being summoned by race control, you will complete qualifying lap(s) *Race control will signal you to stop for a brake check. You must stop within a safe distance. (see rules) *You must demonstrate reverse functionality. *Your qualifying time may be used for grid position. ===Start=== *You will be summoned on to the grid by race control. Turn on your transponder. *Race control may request a parade lap at slow pace to test the transponder system and for familiarity with the track. Maintain positions and reassemble in grid order. *The race will start after a 5 second countdown followed by "GO". ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicated by either yellow flag above the head, "yellow" over the PA, or racer with their hand up. *Drive with one had raised if it is safe to do so, to acknowledge the yellow flag. *Drive at a slow pace and be aware of obstacles on the track. Stop if required. *Do not overtake on a yellow flag *If you break down, get off the track as quickly as possible to clear the yellow flag. Do not faff. Racing on a yellow flag is no fun. *You may re-enter the track via the designated entrance if and when it is safe to do so. *Help clear the track if it gets us going again faster. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. ===Red Flag=== *Indicated by a red flag, stop hand signal, "red" or "all stop" over the PA. *Stop on track as soon as it is safe, and await instructions from race control. *The race may be resumed by "all clear" over the PA, restarted, or ended. ===Race format=== *Any special considerations e.g. joker lap(s). ===Finish=== *The race will last 5 minutes unless stated otherwise. *Indicated by a waving checkered flag. *Complete at least one extra lap after passing the finish line, to ensure your telemetry is counted. *Peel off in to the pits through the designated exit, indicating with a hand signal, if safe to do so. *Be aware of people, other racers, and trailing wires from the transponder system. *Turn off your transponder (if battery powered). {{clear}} ==Marshal Briefing== ===General=== *Wear a hi viz and take a yellow flag. *Spread out around the track at safe places (not on outside bends). *Move racers which stop under the timing gantry. ===Yellow Flag=== *Indicates a significant hazard on track. Stopped racer, person, obstacle, significant debris. *Wave the yellow flag prominently above your head until the all clear is given. *Repeat the signal from other marshals. *Only go on track on a yellow flag when safe to do so. Racers will raise their hand and slow to acknowledge the flag. *Racing under a yellow flag is no fun, try to clear it as fast as possible. *Remove the obstacle from the track as quickly as possible. If it's faster to kick surplus barriers off track than rearrange them. Do that. *If a racer is injured, alert race control with a RED FLAG. *If a hacky is malfunctioning or on fire. Isolate the power, remove the driver, and alert race control with a RED FLAG. *Create an opening and remove a stopped racer from the track to clear the yellow as fast as possible. *Yellow flag is cleared after "all clear" over the PA, or a yellow flag waved around the legs. *Do not idly wave the flag around as it will confuse racers. Keep it down/still or behind you. *Pay attention to the race and avoid distractions. *Shout loud. We're wearing helmets and the track is noisy. ===Red Flag=== *Race control will wave a red flag, or annouce "red" / "stop" over the PA. *Signal racers to stop with a hand signal. *Alert race control of significant issues and follow their instruction. {{clear}} ==Site Safety== ===General=== *Check with the event organisers (Mark/Keegan) before using the track between races (testing etc). *Do not drive recklessly in proximity to people or property (pits). Drive at a safe speed as if your brakes/steering/throttle WILL fail. *People have priority. Drive at the speed they're moving at and don't force your way. *Lights are mandatory at night. *Do not drive under the influence. *At public events, disable your hacky while unattended. [prompt to highlight any other site/event safety] ===Fire=== *Safe battery handling and charging (lipo bags) must be observed in line with the rules. *In the event of a suspected fire: **Get away from the fire. **If it is safe to do so: ***Isolate power. Remove link wire or isolator key. ***Remove fire from surroundings / building ***Place fire in the EMPTY bucket, dump sand on top. ***Use Dry Powder or CO2 extinguisher. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 7a6fe8e862867b239ca08b8c1a3e9a7115751fe8 0 1 453 280 2024-10-02T11:12:12Z Markmellors 1 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] * [https://github.com/HackyRacers/ GitHub] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Gears & Chains * [tech check cheat sheet] == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 94aa744b8f3507d3c99167b0f21f07a070bfe32d 454 453 2024-10-02T11:12:21Z Markmellors 1 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] * [https://github.com/HackyRacers/ GitHub] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Gears & Chains * [[tech check cheat sheet]] == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 19ab9fe34242ec7f7c395c76762a87a0cb81a4d7 457 454 2024-10-02T11:52:05Z Cstubbs 3 /* Hacky Knowledge Base */ wikitext text/x-wiki __NOTOC__ == Hacky Racers Wiki == This wiki will be for sharing of information to anyone interested in Hacky Racers. Are you a newbie hoping to learn how to build a racer? Start browsing… Are you a veteran that builds a new car every season? Share the knowledge! <strong>Please contact the administrators via our [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook page] for edit access to the Wiki.</strong> == Useful Links == * [https://hackyracers.co.uk/ Hacky Racers Site] * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/770080473171308/ Facebook Page] * [https://github.com/HackyRacers/ GitHub] == Hacky Knowledge Base == Common components, build methods, and technical tips. <categorytree mode="all" depth="2">Knowledge Base</categorytree> Coming soon (can you help?): *Gears & Chains == Racer Profiles == Profile pages shining the spotlight on a few of our racers <categorytree mode="pages">Racers</categorytree> == Event Reports == Write ups of what went down at our latest events <categorytree mode="pages">Events</categorytree> 80a065f662849e8227f207c16d148b3cf77f4430 0 129 455 2024-10-02T11:45:11Z Markmellors 1 first draft of tech check summary wikitext text/x-wiki ==== Driver Gear: ==== * Helmet: Must be a road-legal helmet (motorcycle or automotive). Push bike helmets are not allowed. * Shoes: Closed-toe shoes are required. Gloves and full-body protective clothing are recommended but not mandatory. * Eye Protection: Required if necessary. * Overalls / full coverage clothing is recommended to reduce the severity of road-rash ==== Vehicle Construction: ==== * Sharp Edges: No exposed sharp edges or protrusions that could harm the driver or others. Edges must be rounded, deburred, or covered with protective strips. * Materials: Avoid weak or brittle materials that could fail during a race (no glass, ceramics, or brittle plastics). * Driver Safety: The driver must be fully enclosed within the vehicle, with no body part exposed to potential impacts. Feet must not rest directly on the front bumper; side protection may be required. ==== Mechanical Checks: ==== * Chain and Gear Guarding: All moving parts like chains, gears, or transmissions must be properly guarded where a person might come into contact (e.g., drivers, racers, marshals). * Dimensions: Car should not exceed 1600mm in length, 900mm in width, or 1800mm in height (with driver if necessary). * Wheel Setup: The car must have a minimum of 3 wheels, with all driving forces transmitted through them. No caster-like wheels allowed. * Driver Exit: The driver must be able to exit the vehicle within 5 seconds. This will be timed! * Brakes: A mechanical braking system is required, which does not act directly on the tire or the ground. ==== Bumper Requirements: ==== * Bumpers: Must be flat, impact-absorbing, and cover 90% of the car's width, with a vertical space of 75mm (including 100-150mm height from the ground). Tough plastics (HDPE/LDPE/PP/ABS/PC) are ideal. wood is fine, but will need to be at least 18mm thick to survive impacts, possibly 50mm. If you need a thin bumper for some reason, bring spares. * Bumper Attachment: Bumpers should not be secured with sharp (wood) screws and must be firmly attached without posing a hazard to other vehicles or barriers. Don't underestimate the impact forces! Its nto unusual for wooden 2x4 bumpers to snap in a race, design appropriately. ==== Electrical Systems: ==== * Wiring: All wiring must be secured and terminals covered. It should be routed to avoid entanglement and pinching. * Battery: Must be securely mounted and of approved chemistry (lithium non-LiFePO4 batteries require special handling). Soft/pouch style lipos must be in a robust metal container. VW GTE and similar batteries that are alreayd in a metal housing are ok, but their lower surface needs puncture protection adding. * Cutoff Switch: A visible and easily accessible cutoff switch must control all power, reachable by both the driver and marshals. Ideally it should be labelled. * Fuse: The correct brand/model/rating of fuse must be fitted and not active-cooled. Its not just any "30A" fuse, it must be of the model number referenced in the rules. All performance-related power should be routed through it. ==== Control Systems: ==== * Motor Controller: The car must use a proportional motor controller (no on/off contactor systems). * Driver Control: Only one human driver controls the car, and they must be seated within it. * Steering: No remote steering allowed. * Motor: Must be motor-driven (no pedals) and operate at no more than 48V RMS. * Reversing: The car must be fitted with a functioning reverse. This will be checked as part of the qualifying d03172843aceb458b5cd8eb92f373ecc174f2c2e 456 455 2024-10-02T11:51:27Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki ==== Driver Gear: ==== * Helmet: Must be a road-legal helmet (motorcycle or automotive). Push bike helmets are not allowed. * Shoes: Closed-toe shoes are required. Gloves and full-body protective clothing are recommended but not mandatory. * Eye Protection: Required if necessary. * Overalls / full coverage clothing is recommended to reduce the severity of road-rash ==== Vehicle Construction: ==== * Sharp Edges: No exposed sharp edges or protrusions that could harm the driver or others. Edges must be rounded, deburred, or covered with protective strips. * Materials: Avoid weak or brittle materials that could fail during a race (no glass, ceramics, or brittle plastics). * Driver Safety: The driver must be fully enclosed within the vehicle, with no body part exposed to potential impacts. Feet must not rest directly on the front bumper; side protection may be required. ==== Mechanical Checks: ==== * Chain and Gear Guarding: All moving parts like chains, gears, or transmissions must be properly guarded where a person might come into contact (e.g., drivers, racers, marshals). * Dimensions: Car should not exceed 1600mm in length, 900mm in width, or 1800mm in height (with driver if necessary). * Wheel Setup: The car must have a minimum of 3 wheels, with all driving forces transmitted through them. No caster-like wheels allowed. * Driver Exit: The driver must be able to exit the vehicle within 5 seconds. This will be timed! * Brakes: A mechanical braking system is required, which does not act directly on the tire or the ground. ==== Bumper Requirements: ==== * Bumpers: Must be flat, impact-absorbing, and cover 90% of the car's width, with a vertical space of 75mm (including 100-150mm height from the ground). Tough plastics (HDPE/LDPE/PP/ABS/PC) are ideal. wood is fine, but will need to be at least 18mm thick to survive impacts, possibly 50mm. If you need a thin bumper for some reason, bring spares. * Bumper Attachment: Bumpers should not be secured with sharp (wood) screws and must be firmly attached without posing a hazard to other vehicles or barriers. Don't underestimate the impact forces! It's not unusual for wooden 2x4 bumpers to snap in a race, design appropriately. ==== Electrical Systems: ==== * Wiring: All wiring must be secured and terminals covered. It should be routed to avoid entanglement and pinching. * Battery: Must be securely mounted and of approved chemistry (lithium non-LiFePO4 batteries require special handling). Soft/pouch style lipos must be in a robust metal container. VW GTE and similar batteries that are alreayd in a metal housing are ok, but their lower surface needs puncture protection adding. * Cutoff Switch: A visible and easily accessible cutoff switch must control all power, reachable by both the driver and marshals. Ideally it should be labelled. * Fuse: The correct brand/model/rating of fuse must be fitted and not active-cooled. Its not just any "30A" fuse, it must be of the model number referenced in the rules. All performance-related power should be routed through it. ==== Control Systems: ==== * Motor Controller: The car must use a proportional motor controller (no on/off contactor systems). * Driver Control: Only one human driver controls the car, and they must be seated within it. * Steering: No remote steering allowed. * Motor: Must be motor-driven (no pedals) and operate at no more than 48V RMS. * Reversing: The car must be fitted with a functioning reverse. This will be checked as part of the qualifying {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Knowledge Base]] 7ba116d1b9b239f032b59592db02b6ed4deb5aee 0 130 462 2024-10-15T10:21:58Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy24Grid.jpg |Date=28-29th September 2024 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. Races ran every 1-2 hours, on a grass course. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] -..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy24Grid.jpg |Date=28-29th September 2024 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. Races ran every 1-2 hours, on a grass course. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[Dustbin 7]] - Ross *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[The Cra8te]] - Alex *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[1 Horse Power]] - Pete Other Hackys not racing: *[[Gallifrey]] - Helen/Paul {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Cra8te]] - Alex |RacingP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |RacingP3=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[LDPE Express]] - Micheal |OverallP1=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |OverallP2=[[The Rat]] - Rory |OverallP3=[[Cra8te]] - Alex }} [[File:xxx.jpeg|800px|center]] [[File:xxx.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] d90ad4a7edddb618ab4bf0cb481a68a21918f864 467 462 2024-10-15T10:32:51Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy24Grid.jpg |Date=28-29th September 2024 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. Races ran every 1-2 hours, on a grass course. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[Dustbin 7]] - Ross *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[The Cra8te]] - Alex *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[1 Horse Power]] - Pete Other Hackys not racing: *[[Gallifrey]] - Helen/Paul {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Cra8te]] - Alex |RacingP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |RacingP3=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[LDPE Express]] - Micheal |OverallP1=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |OverallP2=[[The Rat]] - Rory |OverallP3=[[Cra8te]] - Alex }} [[File:Scrumpy24Night.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Moxie.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Winners.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 69af5b17213ad03a7a21e9dbfff1128c76311a4f 468 467 2024-10-15T10:33:14Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy24Grid.jpg |Date=28-29th September 2024 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned to the fields of Somerset for another weekend of fishing grass from places you didn't know your racer had! Races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping and drinks at the Cider Barn also on Friday night. Races ran every 1-2 hours, on a grass course. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[Dustbin 7]] - Ross *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[The Cra8te]] - Alex *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[1 Horse Power]] - Pete Other Hackys not racing: *[[Gallifrey]] - Helen/Paul {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Cra8te]] - Alex |RacingP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |RacingP3=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[LDPE Express]] - Micheal |OverallP1=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |OverallP2=[[The Rat]] - Rory |OverallP3=[[Cra8te]] - Alex }} {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:Scrumpy24Night.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Moxie.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Winners.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 50005cce177814940892cfb57ab0949417cfff1c 469 468 2024-10-15T10:40:02Z Cstubbs 3 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy24Grid.jpg |Date=28-29th September 2024 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned for the firth time this year for our flagship event at the wonderful North Down Orchard in Somerset We returned this year for the fifth time to host our flagship event at the stunning North Down Orchard in Somerset. Over the weekend, races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping, tacos and drinks at the Cider Barn on Friday night, and a BBQ on Saturday night. With races every 1-2 hours on a grass course, the event offered a fun and lively atmosphere for all. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[Dustbin 7]] - Ross *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[The Cra8te]] - Alex *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[1 Horse Power]] - Pete Other Hackys not racing: *[[Gallifrey]] - Helen/Paul {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Cra8te]] - Alex |RacingP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |RacingP3=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[LDPE Express]] - Micheal |OverallP1=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |OverallP2=[[The Rat]] - Rory |OverallP3=[[Cra8te]] - Alex }} {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:Scrumpy24Night.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Moxie.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Winners.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] c4892af0ab71241cecf6595c148fc5f2dbbd3bbd 470 469 2024-10-15T10:40:15Z Cstubbs 3 /* Background */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy24Grid.jpg |Date=28-29th September 2024 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned this year for the fifth time to host our flagship event at the stunning North Down Orchard in Somerset. Over the weekend, races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping, tacos and drinks at the Cider Barn on Friday night, and a BBQ on Saturday night. With races every 1-2 hours on a grass course, the event offered a fun and lively atmosphere for all. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[Dustbin 7]] - Ross *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[The Cra8te]] - Alex *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[1 Horse Power]] - Pete Other Hackys not racing: *[[Gallifrey]] - Helen/Paul {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Cra8te]] - Alex |RacingP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |RacingP3=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[LDPE Express]] - Micheal |OverallP1=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |OverallP2=[[The Rat]] - Rory |OverallP3=[[Cra8te]] - Alex }} {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:Scrumpy24Night.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Moxie.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Winners.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] acf1cc7d60f111261030f3e6cff832a54e351053 471 470 2024-10-15T10:43:10Z Cstubbs 3 /* Results */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy24Grid.jpg |Date=28-29th September 2024 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned this year for the fifth time to host our flagship event at the stunning North Down Orchard in Somerset. Over the weekend, races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping, tacos and drinks at the Cider Barn on Friday night, and a BBQ on Saturday night. With races every 1-2 hours on a grass course, the event offered a fun and lively atmosphere for all. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[Dustbin 7]] - Ross *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[The Cra8te]] - Alex *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[1 Horse Power]] - Pete Other Hackys not racing: *[[Gallifrey]] - Helen/Paul {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Cra8te]] - Alex |RacingP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |RacingP3=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[LDPE Express]] - Michael |OverallP1=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |OverallP2=[[The Rat]] - Rory |OverallP3=[[Cra8te]] - Alex }} {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:Scrumpy24Night.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Moxie.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Winners.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 55989cab2faf223a2c86e8f42f1363324b5b8772 488 471 2024-10-15T11:12:49Z Cstubbs 3 /* Entrants */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy24Grid.jpg |Date=28-29th September 2024 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned this year for the fifth time to host our flagship event at the stunning North Down Orchard in Somerset. Over the weekend, races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping, tacos and drinks at the Cider Barn on Friday night, and a BBQ on Saturday night. With races every 1-2 hours on a grass course, the event offered a fun and lively atmosphere for all. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[Dustbin 7]] - Ross *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CR4-T3]] - Alex *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[1 Horse Power]] - Pete Other Hackys not racing: *[[Gallifrey]] - Helen/Paul {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[Cra8te]] - Alex |RacingP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |RacingP3=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[LDPE Express]] - Michael |OverallP1=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |OverallP2=[[The Rat]] - Rory |OverallP3=[[Cra8te]] - Alex }} {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:Scrumpy24Night.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Moxie.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Winners.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] e95aeba8d0ec8c9d0223470f30509961b0f1e944 489 488 2024-10-15T11:13:01Z Cstubbs 3 /* Results */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=Scrumpy24Grid.jpg |Date=28-29th September 2024 |Location=North Down Orchard, Somerset |EventType=Race }} ==Background== We returned this year for the fifth time to host our flagship event at the stunning North Down Orchard in Somerset. Over the weekend, races took place on Saturday and Sunday, with camping, tacos and drinks at the Cider Barn on Friday night, and a BBQ on Saturday night. With races every 1-2 hours on a grass course, the event offered a fun and lively atmosphere for all. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[Dustbin 7]] - Ross *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CR4-T3]] - Alex *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael *[[1 Horse Power]] - Pete Other Hackys not racing: *[[Gallifrey]] - Helen/Paul {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=[[CR4-T3]] - Alex |RacingP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |RacingP3=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP1=[[The Rat]] - Rory |MoxieP2=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |MoxieP3=[[LDPE Express]] - Michael |OverallP1=[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris |OverallP2=[[The Rat]] - Rory |OverallP3=[[CR4-T3]] - Alex }} {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:Scrumpy24Night.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Moxie.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Scrumpy24Winners.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] f09429ef287eed49443f7468987096835f288bbb 6 131 463 2024-10-15T10:27:24Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 132 464 2024-10-15T10:28:25Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 133 465 2024-10-15T10:29:41Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 134 466 2024-10-15T10:32:42Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 96 472 423 2024-10-15T10:47:09Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=ACDC Logo.jpg |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Gearbox=None |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:1500w_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Medals.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 81c8a19732c74d9999d40828ca52a11afce82f60 476 472 2024-10-15T10:51:15Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=ACDC Logo.jpg |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Transmission=Chain |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:1500w_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Medals.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 2857807d149d30f3893117b4e5fd100019d1e047 477 476 2024-10-15T10:51:48Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=ACDC Logo.jpg |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=ACDC |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 2019 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S LiPo (2x 6S) |Transmission=11:74 Chain |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== [[File:ACDC FullyCharged.jpg|thumb|left]] ACDC is my second generation Hacky Racer build. I built this racer in 2020 based on all the lessons I'd learned from racing my original racer (Bodge Charger), i.e it was too tall, too narrow and too unstable. So ACDC is built to have as low a C of G as possible with a wider track than Bodge Charger giving superior handling in corners, this means I don't need to slow down so much in the corners. The chassis is 1500mm long (max allowed at the time of construction) and the width is determined by the widest I could possibly make it and still be able to roll it down the pathway at the side of my house. This photo is of ACDC running at Fully Charged at Farnborough in 2022 where it did really well in all the races. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis frame comes from a mobility scooter. The original front axle is kept, but the original back axle is binned and replaced with a new home made assembly consisting of two 20mm hollow axles mounted Left and Right side on 4 pillow bearings. Each axle has a 74 tooth drive cog and a mountain bike brake disk. I kept the original steering assembly but connected a steering shaft with a UJ from a Renault Scenic to it. Originally I bolted all the bits together to the chassis, but after the first weekend's racing when all the bolts came loose I soon learned how to MIG weld! I bought a set of used Go-Kart wheels, hubs and a set of wet track tyres. I fitted the rear wheels/tyres as close to the body as I could to keep the racer width sensible, then I elongated the front wheel axle so the wheel to wheel width of the front axle matched that of the rear axle. This turned out well and the overall proportions ended up looking right. Because the back axle is split into two then I needed two sets of brakes, one each for the left and one for the right half axle. The brakes are standard Mountain Bike hydraulic brakes which work great and much better than cable brakes. The only issue is balancing them both so that the operate equally together. The motor is mounted so that it can be rotated 180 degrees to provide drive to either the LH or RH axle depending on the track direction (clockwise or anticlockwise), this means that ACDC is configured as a single wheel drive racer. This has its advantages and disadvantages, the advantage being that the car needs no diff and there aren't any steering issues like you typically get with a fixed rear axle configuration; the disadvantage is that there's usually one corner on the circuit where the wheel lifts, spins and you lose drive. But overall, single wheel drive works really well. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Chassis.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor== The motor you can see in the pictures is basically a 2kw Chinese scooter motor from AliExpress. The motor used in ACDC has been modified from the original by drilling oversize holes in the end plates to increase cooling air flow through the core of the motor; recently I've also added a wrap around heatsink that you can see in the second photo that I got from a USA eBay seller. I highly recommend getting a motor without the foot assembly if you can, or just hacksaw the foot off like I did because its made of very soft aluminium and bends when the motor is under high load, this bending ends up twisting the motor and putting it out of alignment with the drive cog and the chain will come off. Use the 4x threaded holes provided (2 in each end plate) to mount the motor securely in position. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Motor_New.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:ACDC_Motor.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Controller== ACDC uses a generic 1.5kw E-bike controller from AliExpress. These Chinese E-bike controllers are bullet proof, powerful and cheap. There's no reason to use anything else to drive the 2kw BOMA motor. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:1500w_Controller.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== ACDC uses 2x 6S 10ah Multistar LiPos from Hobbyking for races. I did try some custom 20ah EIG Li Ion cell packs in a 12s configuration, but these felt less powerful overall and the voltage sagged more than the LiPo packs. Batteries are housed in an old Ammo box mounter on the chassis, this that can quickly be removed after each race to charge the batteries up again between races. I have 2 sets of battery packs for ACDC so that one set can be ready to go and fully charged at all times while the other set is charging after a race. I use a 2x 6s LiPo charger to charge my batteries between races. I always balance charge these LiPo packs to keep them in tip top condition. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== ACDC has a split rear axle, so has two independent half axles, each with its own drive cog. The gearing ratio between motor cog and drive cog depends on the drive wheel diameter and the speed you wish to achieve. Top speed isn't the most important thing in a Hacky Racer, acceleration out of the corners and torque are the main factors. I have geared ACDC to run a top speed of 20 mph, this is plenty fast enough for the short tracks we tend to use for races and is a good balance that gives decent torque and acceleration. With my Go-Kart wheels and tyres I use an 11 tooth cog on the motor and a 74 tooth cog on the drive axle to achieve a calculated top speed around 20 mph. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Loads! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:ACDC_Medals.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! BOM Price ! Notes |- | Mobility scooter chassis/bodywork | £35.00 | £25 for mobility scooter chassis and £10 for bodywork |- | Pillow bearings | £30.64 | |- | Axle shaft 25mm | £20.02 | |- | Pair of front wheel hubs | £29.99 | |- | Pair of rear wheel hubs 25mm | £34.00 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (sprocket) | £3.12 | |- | Shaft collar 25mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Shaft collar 40mm (sprocket) | £6.72 | |- | Shaft collar 40mm (brake disk) | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of Brake Disks | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Pair of rear sprockets | £9.99 | |- | 8mm T8F chain | £4.25 | |- | Ammo box | £- | Free for BoM |- | Brushless 2Kw motor | £79.99 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Motor controller | £15.84 | AliExpress, bought in 2020 |- | Throttle pedal | £10.09 | |- | Steering wheel | £24.99 | |- | Steering shaft | £13 | Includes UJ |- | 2x mtb brake set | £- | Brake Component - Free |- | Batteries | £- | Batteries - Free |- | Switches | £2.00 | £9.99 for 10 |- | Seat | £10.99 | |- | Wheels + Tyres | £30.00 | £50 for 4x wheels and 2x sets of tyres |- | Total | £360.63 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! No suspension. Ground clearance is only 4 cm at the lowest point, so its not suitable for bumpy fields or long unmown grass. Single wheel drive can be poor in muddy conditions (otherwise its just fine). {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 3429462396fee1a9120e584464c349387681d438 10 3 473 55 2024-10-15T10:50:07Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki <noinclude> This is the "Racer" template. The easiest way to use this template is to visit the [[Racers]] page and use the form to create a Racer Profile. It should be called in the following format: <pre> {{Racer |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Transmission=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} </pre> </noinclude> <includeonly>{| style="float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px; width: 269px; border-radius: 8px; background-color: #F9F9F9;border: 1px solid #AAAAAA;font-size: 95%;padding: 5px;" ! style="text-align: center; background-color:#5E93CE; color: white;" colspan="2" |<big>{{PAGENAME}}</big> |- ! colspan="2" | [[File:{{{ProfilePic|}}}|thumb]] |- ! Built By | {{{BuiltBy|}}} |- ! Theme | {{{Theme|}}} |- ! First Race | {{{FirstRace|}}} |- ! Current Status | {{{CurrentStatus|}}} |- ! Motor | {{{Motor|}}} |- ! ESC | {{{ESC|}}} |- ! Battery | {{{Battery|}}} |- ! Transmission | {{{Transmission|}}} |- ! Contact | {{{Contact|}}} |- !colspan="2"|[[:Category:Racers|View all Racer Profiles]] |} [[Category:Racers]] </includeonly> <noinclude> <templatedata> { "params": { "Description": { "description": "A brief description of the Racer", "type": "string", "suggested": true }, "Contact": { "description": "User to contact about the Racer", "type": "wiki-user-name", "suggested": true }, "WebAddress": { "description": "A URL to more info about the Racer", "example": "https://example.com", "type": "url", "suggested": true }, "Activities": {}, "Location": {}, "HideList": {} }, "description": "Used to annotate Racers", "format": "block" } </templatedata> </noinclude> 29b109f22b7ce20553278f9b7270c1af014eb19b 0 26 474 151 2024-10-15T10:50:30Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=RuleZeroProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Mark Mellors |Theme=Fire Engine |FirstRace=EMF 2018? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor? |Battery=?? |Transmission=??:?? Chain |Contact=@MarkMellors }} ==Background== [[File:RuleZeroOrigin.jpg|thumb|left]] The name comes from the 0th rule of Hitchin Hackspace - Rule Zero - Do Not Be On Fire! The theme of the body is based around a fire engine from local Hertfordshire Fire & Rescue, constructed from a PVC pipe frame, ABS sheets, and printed vinyl? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== 10-12Ah, 12S Multistar lipos from Hobbyking, or custom 20ah Eig cell packs with BMS. (details?) 2kw scooter motor & 1.5kw ebike controller. (details?) Source: https://vevor.co.uk/brushless-dc-motor-c_11227/48v-1800w-brushless-motor-controller-throttle-grip-powerful-quad-p_010700081791 Details of chain and gear ratio? [[File:RuleZeroMotor.jpeg|thumb|right]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Sound? Lights? Remote steering? Great on two wheels! {{clear}} ==Awards== *Scrumpy Cup 2023 **3rd place Moxie. ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Slicks have limited grip in mud, but does corner well in almost all other conditions. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/MarkMellors @MarkMellors] [http://jellyandmarshmallows.co.uk/ Mark’s website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 40458cb640d10c77c3412263971ba806549a0856 0 83 475 433 2024-10-15T10:51:05Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Voltcraneo racing.JPG |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs |Theme=Liebherr Mobile Crane |FirstRace=EMF 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=6x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=3x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion/LiPo (2x 6S) |Transmission=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Ltm1060.png|thumb|left]] Volt-Crane-O is a scratch built, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steer, fully functional miniature crane. The theme is based around a Liebherr 6 wheel mobile crane. {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly 2x4. Fixings are mostly wood screws, except the use of M6/M8 bolts where additional strength or rules compliance is needed (bumpers). The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the trailing spindle arms. The steering column is 25mm bed frame offcut with socket set articulating joint. There is a second pitman arm on the steering column at 90 degrees to produce a back and forth steering linkage to the rear axle, which is then translated 90 degrees again using a pivot to drive the rear tie rods. The steering angle of the rear axle is approximately 1/3rd of the front steering angle, because the rear/mid wheelbase is approximately 1/3 the front/mid wheelbase. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry and the handling is somehow "fine". The steering components are mostly constructed from offcuts of bedframe, steel angle welded to make U section, or 4x30mm flat steel bar. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cranesteer1.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering rear view]] | [[File:Cranesteer2.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis with steering front view]] | [[File:Cranesteer3.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Volt-Crane-O utilises 6x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 3x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from aliexpress hall effect pedals via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by either 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 60A DALY BMS, or 2X 6S 9500mAH CHNL Lipos. Another 6S4P Li-Ion set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. {{clear}} ==Other Features== The crane boom can be raised and lowered, extended and retracted (2 sections), and the winch/hook raised and lowered by a control panel below the steering wheel. The boom itself is constructed from 3 telescopic sections of 18mm plywood, running on internal/external 608 skateboard bearings or homemade tubular bearings at each end. The winch is a 12V caravan/boat trailer winch rated for 900kg. All other actuation is driven by drill motors with their attached two speed (low gear) gearbox and chuck, which drives an M12 nut along a threaded rod. Opposing bearings are used to take the axial forces rather than relying on the drill. The boom raise/lower rod drives a nut attached to the elbow of an old monitor mount, which in turn raises the boom. Power is provided by a dedicated 3S lipo. The boom is lowered in to a cradle and secured directly to the chassis using the steel cable during racing. It fits within the envolope of the body/bumpers. 10 strobing orange hazard lights, 6 orange chasing LED beacons, 2 white headlights and 2 red brake lights illuminate the track for night racing. An Arduino logs all hoverboard and control telemetry locally via SD card. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Voltcraneoprofile.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extended]] | [[File:Crane boom motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom extension motor]] | [[File:Crane lift motor.jpg|thumb|alt=Boom lift motor]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *EMF 2024 **3rd place overall. **1st place Moxie. {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" style="vertical-align:bottom;" |- ! Item ! Cost |- | Tyres | £32.64 |- | HBs | £40.00 |- | Winch | £40.00 |- | M12 rod + nuts x3 | £16.11 |- | Drill motors | £11.66 |- | M12 rod bearings | £2.94 |- | 2x4 frame | £11.44 |- | 38*63*2.4m wood | £6.72 |- | Ply boom | £18.12 |- | Boom bearings | £2.40 |- | Body frame wood | £6.80 |- | Panelling ply | £3.40 |- | Steering UJ | £1.90 |- | pedals | £7.86 |- | Winch controls | £2.44 |- | steering wheel | £8.27 |- | Wire | £8.00 |- | IP Enclosures | £11.86 |- | Seat | £0.00 |- | Limit sw | £0.50 |- | Paint | £15.00 |- | Crimps | £3.33 |- | Eye hooks | £2.79 |- | Washers | £1.54 |- | Nuts | £5.00 |- | V monitor | £5.06 |- | Drag chain | £4.22 |- | Limit indicators | £2.25 |- | Voltage reg | £3.00 |- style="vertical-align:middle;" | Control PCB | £32.00 |- | Brakes | Excluded |- | Brake Spacers | Excluded |- | Haz lights | Excluded |- | Winch isolator | Excluded |- | Isolator | Excluded |- | Lighting controller | Excluded |- | Fuse box | Excluded |- | | |- | Total | £307.25 |} ==Limitations== Steering wheel snapped off. Sluggish on mud/grass. Heavy (100kg). Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 168e89ef8d84cb2fc2e7db19840588446bbdf96d 0 109 478 427 2024-10-15T10:52:41Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=BC_Main.jpg |BuiltBy=Vince Williams |Theme=Bodge Charger 2 |FirstRace=Footfest 2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2x 2kw Brushless BOMA, AliExpress |ESC=2x 1500W 48v ebike Generic controller, AliExpress |Battery=48V 12S Li-Ion module from an eGolf EV |Transmission=Chain |Contact=@Bodgecharger }} ==Background== Bodge Charger 2 was developed from a combination of the original Bodge Charger (circa 2020) and lessons learned from ACDC (a very successful low ground clearance racer best suited to tarmac / concrete / flat and smooth short grass circuits, but some of the tracks we race on throughout the year can be held on rougher ground such as bumpy fields or meadows with medium to long grass. So Bodge Charger 2 takes into account all the lessons learned from these two Hacky Racers and incorporates them into the new Bodge Charger 2. These first set of pictures show the original Bodge Charger Hacky Racer as it was in 2020/21 at the very first Scrumpy cup and then at fully charged Live at Silverstone. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_3.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_2.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} I also wanted to see what could be improved on regarding power, traction, stability, differential and batteries and have addressed each of these topics in the design. So I've now included full suspension (independent on the front, single swing arm on the rear), twin 2kw motors one on each rear wheel (split rear axle), electronic Diff, and a 48v 12s EV battery module from an eGolf. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Side.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Construction== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Top.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Angle.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Suspension.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motors== Bodge Charger 2 has two MY1020 motors, one fitted to each half axle as seen in the photos. These motors are one of the most common type used for Hackys, they are 2kw 48v motors primarily designed for scooters etc and work well when matched with a cheap AliExpress 1500w 48v e-bike controller. The motors have been modified to provide more cooling airflow through the core of the motors by drilling out some of the vent holes to 6mm. In Bodge Charger 2 the 2 motors are used independently to provide an electronic diff capability. In normal operation only one motor is driving at any one time, the other is left idling; which motor is providing drive is determined by a combination of steering angle and lateral G force. In a LH corner the RH motor will be providing drive and vice versa for a RH corner, drive always being provided to the outside wheel (typically having the most traction) which is the opposite of what a standard diff on a car does. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Rear.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Motors.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Motor Drivers/Controllers== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Hacky Controller== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Brakes== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Batteries== The battery module is a single 12s pack originally from an eGolf EV. As you can see from the photos I've removed the original BMS board and split the pack into two 6s configurations. The battery as it comes is made up of 12 standard 4.1v Li-Ion cells housed in a sturdy metal container with a BMS PCB fitted on top. But seeing as I already have a powerful Dual 6S balance charger, then it made sense to split the pack into 2x 6S modules and get rid of the redundant BMS PCB and just charge the pack in balance mode as I normally do with my old 6S LiPo packs. So I wired up the pack as 2x 6S modules and connected balance leads to all the cells so that it would connect to my charger. To use the pack in its 48v 12S mode then all I needed to do was to connect the two 6S sub-packs in series again for racing with an XT90 adapter I made up. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BC_Battery1.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery2.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BMS_Fitted.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:BMS_Removed.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Split.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:BC_Battery_Wired.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} After my first round of testing at Footfest 24 I discovered that the Li-Ion EV module voltage sagged drastically during race conditions and after only a few minutes racing the voltage under load dropped low enough to brownout (power down) my ESP32 controller. After that I replaced the battery pack with the standard 2x 6S Multistar LiPo's I had as spares and all my voltage sag issues went away. Bodge Charger seemed to have more punch and power after swapping the batteries over to the old LiPo's, so the only conclusion I can draw from this is that the Li-Ion EV pack is no good for racing. Well, that's what testing is for!! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Multistar_LiPo.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Drivetrain== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Awards== *Not Raced yet, just testing! {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Bodge Charger 2 BOM ! BOM ! Notes |- | Chassis frame | £20.00 | Bed frame |- | Donor Vehicle | £22.50 | eBay, original Bodge Charger |- | Tyres | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Wheels | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Seat | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Bodywork | £25.00 | Googly Eyes, plastic pipe, carboard, stickers. |- | Brakes | £- | MTB Hydraulic brakes |- | Steering Rack | £23.78 | Ali Express Rack and Pinion |- | Steering Wheel | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Steering Wheel Shaft | £- | included with Donor Vehicle |- | Front Suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Rear suspension | £13.00 | 2 Shocks from Mobility Scooter |- | Motor | £106.78 | 2x 48v 2kw Brushless motors |- | Motor Controller | £31.80 | 2x 1500w Brushless motor controller |- | Axle | £16.24 | 20mm hollow shaft |- | Axle bearings | £24.44 | Pillow bearings |- | Collars | £5.30 | Adapters for Sprockets |- | Nut & bolts | £20.00 | Various |- | Switches | £10.77 | 2x power switches, reverse switch |- | Battery | £- | E-Golf Battery Pack |- | Sprockets | £21.98 | 2x 74 tooth sprockets |- | Chain | £- | included with sprockets |- | Electronic components | £15.24 | ESP32, ADC1115, ADXL345, Connectors etc |- | Throttle pedal | £16.78 | 2x throttle pedals |- | XT90 connectors | £5.00 | XT90 connectors |- | MT60 connectors | £3.00 | MT60 connectors |- | Wiring | £20.00 | Various |- | Brake Return spring | £- | Classic car throttle return spring |- | Isolator switch | £- | XT90 link |- | Total | £414.61 | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The driver (that's me) weighs too much! {{clear}} ==Gallery== {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|]] |} {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/Bodge Charger @BodgeCharger] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 6be7a5a3e2a477f1e4a805a075571c0ff421b142 0 45 479 149 2024-10-15T10:53:00Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=CyberQuadProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Alex Shakespeare |Theme=Small Quad |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor? |ESC= Vevor?? |Battery=?? |Transmission=??:?? Chain |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? Unrelated to tesla? {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? ESC(s?)? Details of chain and gear ratio? Do you have a diff? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] ? {{clear}} ==Awards== ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== ? {{clear}} ==Resources== Socials to share? Websites? Resources? {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 5ab25929d46b77893ba8cddb5010cf39056452c5 0 2 480 432 2024-10-15T10:53:18Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Cybr trk profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Stubbs and Dom Tag |Theme=Tesla Cybertruck |FirstRace=EMF 2022 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=4x Hoverboard 6.5″ Hub Motors |ESC=2x Hoverboard PCB |Battery=48V 12S3P Li-Ion (2x 6S) |Transmission=Direct hub motor |Contact=@emfroamer }} ==Background== [[File:Cybr_trk_rgb.jpeg|thumb|left]] CYBR TRK started life in 2022 as the EMF Roamer; a publicly controlled, raspberry pi powered robot, that could roam the EMF site. This was a follow on project from the much smaller EMF Roamer in 2018. One of the main objectives was to also be as Hacky Racers legal as practical. The theme is a loose caricature of the Tesla Cybertruck, rather than an original donor vehicle. {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>oSSG0ZJpOvY</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== The chassis is constructed from wood, mostly decking frame offcuts, utilising recycled hoverboard components wherever possible. The front wheels are able to articulate using a hoverboard casting as a joint, in a crude suspension to keep 4 wheels on the ground. The body is also constructed from a lightweight wooden frame, panelled with thin plywood. This is removable from the chassis to enable maintenance and transport. Steering uses two M8 threaded tie rods to connect the pitman arm to the leading spindle arm. The steering column is 25mm electrical conduit with socket set couplings. No real thoughts were given to steering geometry (bad) as this was a retrofit from the fly-by-wire servo system. {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_chassis.jpeg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_wood_body.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Cybr_trk_steering.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== CYBR TRK utilises 4x 6.5″ 350W hoverboard motors, [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1631357302484631552?cxt=HHwWgICwxdi036MtAAAA fitted] with 4.10/3.50-5 tyres. Regenerative braking is extremely effective if configured correctly, however one motor has been fitted with a mechanical brake from a Xiaomi M365 scooter to comply with the rules. Power is delivered to the motors using 2x original hoverboard PCBs running a fork of EFeru’s FOC firmware (links at the bottom). A higher current limit is applied to the rear motors to aid traction given the awful weight distribution. Throttle is applied in torque mode, controlled from a playstation racing pedals set via an Arduino. Traction power is supplied by 2x [https://twitter.com/EmfRoamer/status/1627726694739021825 custom 6S3P Samsung 30T 21700 Li-Ion battery packs], producing 48V total. Each pack contains a 40A continuous rated BMS. A second 6S4P set using reclaimed hoverboard 18650’s also exists for testing and running around, but does not perform well enough for racing. Block diagram of electrical configuration as configured for EMF Camp (local & remote mode) [[File:Cybr_trk_elec_dia.png|none|700px|alt=Electrical block diagram]] {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Cybr_trk_trailer.jpg|thumb|right]] A fold up trolley makes an effective trailer for running gear from the car park to the track! Originally the car contained over 300 individually addressable RGB LEDs. It could produce an impressive RGB underglow, front headlight bar, and rear brake bar with animated indicators. This number has however declined as they were damaged in races and modifications. When deployed as the EMF Roamer, the vehicle could be controlled by anyone using a web browser. This used a websockets connection for control, and jsmpeg for live video. A presentation was given at EMF with more information, but recordings could not be published. Presentation without audio available [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0VkOzOAub4 here]. [[File:Cybertruckservo.jpg|thumb|left]] A windscreen wiper motor was originally used as a steering actuator with a pot for feedback, all hooked up to an arduino PID controller. The setpoint could then either be fed from the steering wheel (an old playstation controller), or the Pi for remote control. Using the arduino also allowed current limiting and fault detection, to prevent fire if it gets jammed. Turns out as a neat trick, you can run a PID loop to control the servo angle, and a PID loop to control the max current, and just take the minimum output from either controller as the PWM drive! This was eventually removed in place of basic mechanical steering, at the request of Hacky Racers on safety and legality basis. The Pi logs all hoverboard and arduino telemetry locally via MQTT/NodeRed/Grafana. {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **1st place overall. **2nd place race position. **2nd place on Moxie points. *EMF Camp 2022 **Beat slowest ever hacky racers lap (previously held by EMF Roamer in 2018) {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" style="vertical-align:middle;" |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" ! Item ! Cost |- | Tyres | £103.25 |- | Wood for frame/body | £40.00 |- | Control PCB | £32.00 |- | Swegway 1 | £30.00 |- | Swegway 2 | £30.00 |- | Chassis alu | £20.00 |- | Motor drive enclosures | £18.96 |- | Light bar | £12.45 |- | Paint | £10.00 |- | Bumper steel | £10.00 |- | Wire | £10.00 |- | Rod ends | £9.31 |- | Chair | £9.29 |- | Pedals | £7.86 |- | LED strip | £5.60 |- | Steering Wheel | £8.27 |- | 12V reg | £4.89 |- | Steering brackets | £4.46 |- | Steering bolts | £3.32 |- | Steering column | £3.25 |- | Steering rod | £2.80 |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | |- | Total | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | £375.71 |} ==Limitations== Tips over a lot. BMS’s run extremely hot. Happily pops 30A fuse if accelerating too hard/long. {{clear}} ==Resources== Twitter Account [https://twitter.com/emfroamer @EmfFRoamer] The Hoverboard firmware, Arduino code, and CAD on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/hoverboard-firmware-hack-FOC GitHub] Remote control Pi code on [https://github.com/chrisstubbs93/roamerpi GitHub] [https://chris-stubbs.co.uk/ Chris’ website] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 2438a84d2edcd04df2ddc2edc57e7999e01ff616 0 94 481 288 2024-10-15T10:53:38Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=DB7-Profile.jpg |BuiltBy=Rory |Theme=Wheelie bin |FirstRace=Scrumpy Cup 18 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=2kw brushless scooter motor |ESC= 1.5kW 48v brushless ebike ESC |Battery= 3 x 16Ah 4S Multistar |Transmission=??:?? Chain |Contact= }} ==Build log== [https://hackaday.io/project/160195-hacky-racers-building-the-dustbin-7/details See the build log on Hackaday.io]. {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] ab8586bbaf06113cfa937b5263f81cbec0690ffc 0 57 482 189 2024-10-15T10:53:53Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=LEtsGo.jpg |BuiltBy=Chris Shakespeare |Theme=Lego Racer |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 2000W |ESC= White box e-bike controller 1500W |Battery=2 x 6S 12Ah in series |Transmission=??:?? Chain |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:LEtsGO_BakingTrays.jpeg|thumb|left]] Theme is to look like Lego blocks. It uses baking trays sprayed in various bright coloured car paints It takes the 2022 Hacky Racer, Jeepney, and re-themes and improves on that basic design {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Majority of the chassis is constructed from 20mm x 20mm box section. Its fully welded together The box section used allows a level of flex over rough surfaces that is beneficial Steering? Geometry? Steering is direct in the style of a go-kart Its has a lot of negative camber, probably too much! Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? Majority of components are from mini ATVs There are 2 sizes of wheel/tyre available depending on conditions. 13x5.00-6 145x70-6 How do your brakes work? Single brake disc on the rear axle with a hydraulic braking system using components from an ATV The master brake cylinder is actuated directly from the brake pedal {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:LEtsGO_Brakes.jpeg|thumb|alt=Brake Disc]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor Uses a single Vevor 2000W motor mounted to allow the chain tension to be adjusted ESC Whitebox 1500W e-bike controller that may/may not of had the shunt modified to allow more current Details of chain and gear ratio? 11:74 sprockets through a chain Do you have a diff? No diff fitted, a single solid axle Where is your battery from? Hobbyking but now consistently out of stock {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] Changing the wheel/tyre changes the ratio of the gearing by a few percent which can be handy {{clear}} ==Awards== Fully Charge Live 2023 - forgot my placement Scrumpy cup - overall 1st for racing, overall 1st including moxie {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== The solid rear axle causes prodigious understeer at time {{clear}} ==Resources== More detail on https://www.facebook.com/JacklsRobots/ {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] e121047cb19bf8e8281be07884f30de22f250fe6 0 82 483 267 2024-10-15T10:54:19Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Whipe.png |BuiltBy=Dom Tag |Theme=Ice Cream Van |FirstRace=EMF 2024 (hopefully) |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Single Vevor style motor |ESC=Standard Vevor style |Battery=48V 12S Lipo (2x 6S) |Transmission=??:?? Chain, Mobility Scooter gearbox and differential }} ==Background== Mr Whip-E is themed to look (and sound) like an old-school ice cream van. {{clear}} ==Construction== The donor vehicle was a mobility scooter which had the body, seat, steering 'handlebars' and batteries removed prior to purchasing it. The model was unknown but features suspension front and rear. The original motor was a combined motor-gearbox-diff-axle assembly, so this became a part that I wanted to retain to avoid having to re-make parts that already worked. To achieve this, a Vevor style motor was selected. The original mobility scooter .... WIP {{clear}} ==Powertrain== WIP {{clear}} ==Other Features== WIP {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} WIP ==Limitations== WIP {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] 8e7e5c70e776bc2dd924947dc57564ffebd6d345 0 24 484 150 2024-10-15T10:54:41Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=PinkMyRideProfile.jpg |BuiltBy=Carl Yeo |Theme=Pink BMW |FirstRace=??? |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Modified Alternator |ESC=2x ?? |Battery=?? |Transmission=??:?? Chain |Contact=?? }} ==Background== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|left]] Theme? Body? {{clear}} ==Interview== <youtube>HQtidBeqB-0</youtube> {{clear}} ==Construction== How is the chassis constructed? Steering? Geometry? Where are your wheels, tyres, hubs, axles from? How do your brakes work? {|style="margin: 0 auto;" | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden chassis]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Wooden body]] | [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|alt=Steering components]] |} {{clear}} ==Powertrain== Motor? What did you have to modify? ESC(s?)? What do your switches do? Details of chain and gear ratio? Do you have a diff? Where is your battery from? {{clear}} ==Other Features== [[File:Placeholder.jpg|thumb|right]] RGB Headlights? {{clear}} ==Awards== *Fully Charged Live 2023 **3rd place (for what?). ... {{clear}} ==BOM== {{^|Generate tables here - https://www.tablesgenerator.com/mediawiki_tables}} {| class="wikitable" |- ! Item ! Cost ! Total |- | Motor | £xx | £xx |- | Wheels | £xx | |- | ... | ... | |} {{clear}} ==Limitations== Extremely painful to drive. {{clear}} ==Resources== Socials to share? Websites? Resources? {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Racers]] c697c2f127f13d6d68c70987b6a5bb9160fe732b 0 79 485 254 2024-10-15T10:55:00Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Racer |ProfilePic=Velociracer.png |BuiltBy=East Essex Hackspace |Theme=Jeep 18 - Jurrasic Park |FirstRace=EMF2024 |CurrentStatus=Active |Motor=Vevor 1800W |ESC= Stock Vevor controller |Battery=13S 600Ah custom built LiFePO4 |Transmission=??:?? Chain |Contact=EEH }} ==Background== [[File:Velociracer-original.jpg|thumb|right|pre modifications]] [[File:Velociracer.png|thumb|right|]] East Essex Hackspace built Velociracer to compete in the EMF2024 hackyracer races, using an old broken jeep toy which was subsequently reinforced. The original jeep was badly sun damaged, the plastics mostly broken and the electrics very rusty. When covered in grey primer, we realised it looked a little like Jeep 18 from the Jurrasic Park series, so we reinforced that with red styling and stickers. The 12v 4x4 drivers were removed and replaced by a single 1800w motor and a go cart axle which was turned on the lathe to accept a mobility scooter diff as it wasn't going round corners. The battery was built from individual cells, donated by one of the hackspace users who builds motorbikes to beat the electric motorbike land speed records as these were no longer allowed to be used. Velociracer has twin brakes. ==Build Team== Andy Pugh</br> Nick Reynolds</br> Tim Neobard (though all his work was cut out as his welding was awful)</br> ==Build Log== A comprehensive build log can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1RXnXOvgjxtOjpiluZcgzOdxUQpuNqMQJkTBpVb2HkW0/edit?usp=sharing ==BOM== ===Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! Item ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! Bought? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Vevor 1.8kw Motor, controller & accelerator | does not resolve | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | style="text-align:right;" | £87.99 | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Steel | IMS £15.50 for 6m | style="text-align:right;" | 3 | New | style="text-align:right;" | £15.50 | style="text-align:right;" | £46.50 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Wheels | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173769531988 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £56.96 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Cart Axle & Hubs | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £67.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mobility Scooter Differential | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £25.00 | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Front steering | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256095490881 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £48.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Toy frame | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Free | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Seat | | style="text-align:right;" | 1 | Used | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | style="text-align:right;" | £23.45 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Stickers | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185519913092 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.56 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.12 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Grey plastic primer | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003MI8996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.95 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.85 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Red Paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-Purpose-Disposable-Plastic-Swiss-Signature/dp/B09L4ZYDQB/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £5.49 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Silver paint | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Fantastic-All-Purpose-Interior-Household/dp/B07V49Q29Q/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 3 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £6.25 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £18.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Chain T8F | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173168202070?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43169555070&trkId=cfaedbe2-40d2-4b10-b6cf-3991ff9a089f&cnvId=700003&recoId=173168202070&recoPos=1 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | No |} ===Non Costed=== {| class="wikitable" |- style="vertical-align:bottom; background-color:#B7B7B7;" ! URL ! Quant ! ! Price ! Total ! style="text-align:right;" | £233.24 ! |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery | | | Not costed | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated? |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake caliper | | | Donated | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake calipers, pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0C3Y5W151 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £29.75 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07L5FL7BX/ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £19.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Donated |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195345265996 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £13.58 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake master cylinder pair | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305039217745 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £17.59 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake hose | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294906355965 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Brake disk | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124145629228 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £38.00 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £76.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Fuse & fuse holder | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201688958022 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £4.49 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.00 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Spare fuses | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | | | | | style="text-align:right;" | £0.00 | Came with 2 |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8 AWG battery cable | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225507706306 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £25.98 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Mylar sheet for insulation | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163367584753?var=464991723171 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £12.39 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Balance lead crimp terminals | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263964138890 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £3.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Battery rubber mounts | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Generator-Compressor-D10mmxH10mm/dp/B09BQBRBNZ | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £7.99 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Anderson connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364407411014 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 4 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.86 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £11.42 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | 8AWG lug connectors | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134909339293?var=434367346461 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 2 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £0.57 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £1.14 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |- | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Internal 50A mid-pack fuse | style="text-decoration:underline; color:#00E;" | https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112598557176 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | 1 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | New | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="text-align:right; vertical-align:bottom;" | £2.34 | style="vertical-align:bottom;" | Yes |} [[Category:Racers]] c1b2aab86fd4c258d563a69bdd53790213eb90e8 6 135 486 2024-10-15T11:04:09Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 136 487 2024-10-15T11:04:17Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 137 490 2024-10-15T11:25:15Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Event |EventPic=MC24Grid.jpg |Date=18-19th May 2024 |Location=NEC, Birmingham |EventType=Race }} ==Background== Hacky Racers at Makers Central 2024 was a fantastic event that brought back some familiar faces, along with a few exciting new entrants. The races saw regular participants showcasing their usual creations, while fresh teams brought some creative new vehicles, adding to the fun and unpredictability of the competition. This year also featured a new twist, YouT..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=MC24Grid.jpg |Date=18-19th May 2024 |Location=NEC, Birmingham |EventType=Race }} ==Background== Hacky Racers at Makers Central 2024 was a fantastic event that brought back some familiar faces, along with a few exciting new entrants. The races saw regular participants showcasing their usual creations, while fresh teams brought some creative new vehicles, adding to the fun and unpredictability of the competition. This year also featured a new twist, YouTube Star in a Reasonably Priced Car, where popular creators like Matt Gray and Xyla Foxlin, took their turn behind the wheel. This was also our first event under Motorsport UK. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Cardboard McQueen]] - Brian & Family *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Side Hustle]] - Mark (on behalf of Rob) *[[Mario Hack]] - Mark (on behalf of David) {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=x |RacingP2=x |RacingP3=x |MoxieP1=x |MoxieP2=x |MoxieP3=x |OverallP1=x |OverallP2=x |OverallP3=x }} {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:MC24Xyla.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:MC24MG.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] e5468a00963980554e7ce080521fa3efd0919798 491 490 2024-10-15T11:28:50Z Cstubbs 3 /* Entrants */ wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=MC24Grid.jpg |Date=18-19th May 2024 |Location=NEC, Birmingham |EventType=Race }} ==Background== Hacky Racers at Makers Central 2024 was a fantastic event that brought back some familiar faces, along with a few exciting new entrants. The races saw regular participants showcasing their usual creations, while fresh teams brought some creative new vehicles, adding to the fun and unpredictability of the competition. This year also featured a new twist, YouTube Star in a Reasonably Priced Car, where popular creators like Matt Gray and Xyla Foxlin, took their turn behind the wheel. This was also our first event under Motorsport UK. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Cardboard McQueen]] - Brian & Family *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Side Hustle]] - Mark (on behalf of Rob) *[[Mario Hack]] - Mark (on behalf of David) Other Hackys not racing: *[[Lumberghini]] - Mark {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=x |RacingP2=x |RacingP3=x |MoxieP1=x |MoxieP2=x |MoxieP3=x |OverallP1=x |OverallP2=x |OverallP3=x }} {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:MC24Xyla.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:MC24MG.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] eec648a40d4daa100d85fbb8a7d452fdd9b40748 6 138 492 2024-10-15T11:29:23Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 139 493 2024-10-15T11:31:25Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 140 494 2024-10-15T11:35:30Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 141 495 2024-10-15T11:55:33Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Event |EventPic=EMF24Grid.jpg |Date=May 30th–June 2nd 2024 |Location=Eastnor |EventType=Race }} ==Background== Hacky Racers made their highly anticipated return to EMF Camp 2024, bringing a blend of chaotic fun and speed to the field. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[Dustbin 7]] - Ross? *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CR4-T3]] - Alex *Velo..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=EMF24Grid.jpg |Date=May 30th–June 2nd 2024 |Location=Eastnor |EventType=Race }} ==Background== Hacky Racers made their highly anticipated return to EMF Camp 2024, bringing a blend of chaotic fun and speed to the field. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[Ghost Rider]] - Damien *[[Turbine]] - Adam *[[Dustbin 7]] - Ross? *[[The Rat]] - Rory *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Pink My Ride]] - Carl *[[CR4-T3]] - Alex *[[Velociracer]] - East Essex Hackspace *[[Cardboard McQueen]] - Brian & Family *[[LEtsGO]] - Chris *[[Mr Whip-E]] - Dom Other Hackys not racing: *[[Big Tikes]] - Michael *[[Police car?]] - ? {{clear}} ==Results== {{Race results |RacingP1=x |RacingP2=x |RacingP3=x |MoxieP1=x |MoxieP2=x |MoxieP3=x |OverallP1=x |OverallP2=x |OverallP3=x }} {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:EMF24a.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:EMF24b.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 2d86a88c8000404ae986972f96108abbaf42cd70 6 142 496 2024-10-15T11:59:13Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 143 497 2024-10-15T12:01:00Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 144 498 2024-10-15T12:02:52Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 145 499 2024-10-15T12:07:54Z Cstubbs 3 Created page with "{{Event |EventPic=FootFest24Grid.jpg |Date=7-8th September 2024 |Location=Sudbury |EventType=Race }} ==Background== Dr Footleg kindly hosted the Hacky Racers again on the paddock at his private maker / camping weekend. It was a relaxed event with various projects on display, and a fantastic BBQ / bonfire on Saturday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *LDPE..." wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=FootFest24Grid.jpg |Date=7-8th September 2024 |Location=Sudbury |EventType=Race }} ==Background== Dr Footleg kindly hosted the Hacky Racers again on the paddock at his private maker / camping weekend. It was a relaxed event with various projects on display, and a fantastic BBQ / bonfire on Saturday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael {{clear}} ==Results== Relaxed event! {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:Footfest24a.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Footfest24b.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] dd8c7b9fb082f85b6718e76c00bf87063edc4972 6 146 500 2024-10-15T12:10:02Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 147 501 2024-10-15T12:10:11Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 6 148 502 2024-10-15T12:12:27Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 503 502 2024-10-15T12:12:54Z Cstubbs 3 Cstubbs uploaded a new version of [[File:FootFest24Mark.jpg]] wikitext text/x-wiki da39a3ee5e6b4b0d3255bfef95601890afd80709 0 145 504 499 2024-10-15T12:13:23Z Cstubbs 3 wikitext text/x-wiki {{Event |EventPic=FootFest24Mark.jpg |Date=7-8th September 2024 |Location=Sudbury |EventType=Race }} ==Background== Dr Footleg kindly hosted the Hacky Racers again on the paddock at his private maker / camping weekend. It was a relaxed event with various projects on display, and a fantastic BBQ / bonfire on Saturday night. {{clear}} ==Entrants== *[[CYBR TRK]] - Chris *[[Volt-Crane-O]] - Chris *[[Rule Zero]] - Mark *[[Bodge Charger 2]] - Vince *[[ACDC]] - Vince *[[LDPE Express]] - Michael {{clear}} ==Results== Relaxed event! {{clear}} ==Gallery== [[File:Footfest24a.jpg|800px|center]] [[File:Footfest24b.jpg|800px|center]] {{clear}} ----- {{FooterFB}} [[Category:Events]] 2a3e570e18161f1c16e9a24a547f5640bfa4ee39